Pam, If you're using the polycarb ridge cap with the same kind of corrugations as the panels, you need to screw it down like the sheets. Or, you can just buy lengths of galvanized steel ridge and screw it to the corrugations and use filler strips to plug the spaces in between. I've used a vented ridge cap on some applications too. It allows hot air to escape through non-leaking vents in the pieces. Easy way to crawl on the structure is to cut a piece of 3/8" OSB to just short of where the ridge edge will go. Build a "stop" out of 2X that'll screw onto the top plate or exposed wall studs to hold the OSB. Screw that to the OSB. Ladder up to the platform and lay the pre-drilled cap in place. Come down and move the structure down the wall 4'. Don't forget to orient the seams away from the prevailing wind. Seal them with some silicone. Depending on the pitch of the roof, you may have to put some thin battens on the OSB sheet to keep from slipping off, or losing a drill...

jaymaneul: Honestly, I would not use Gibbens Pools again and I would not recommend them at this time. We signed our contract in February and we are still not finished. We were told 6-8 weeks completion time from the time we signed and we are still waiting for the pool to be complete. We had to get the pool replastered due to color discrepancies. They finished it this past week and although it looks fantastic, there are two areas where water sat in the shallow end/dripped down the walls(didn't blow out the skimmer equalizer line) as the pool was filling up, leaving unsightly discolorations. Gibbens has not addressed this issue yet. Working with Gibbens has been an uphill battle. Their subs (other than the plasterers) have been nothing but excellent, but dealing with the owners of the company has been like talking to a brick wall (Gibbens subs everything out, btw). Our pool will be great once the issues are worked out, but working them out is taking forever. Example: when they shot the pool, the gunite overspray got over everything, most importantly our black, iron fence. We called the company the following day to let them know. They said it would be cleaned. This was in March. To this day, we still have gunite all over the fence. After talking to a fence installer, he said that the fence will have to be replaced. It seems as if they ignore the problem, it will just go away (the sheer descent wall was the same way). I can tell you from talking to the subs, that we are not the only ones that seem to have difficulty with this company. Maybe not to the extreme we are experiencing, but a majority of the complaints from other pool owners is the amount of time it takes to complete the pool. As for your contract, Gibbens (as many construction type businesses) uses a typical 'builder's contract'. Essentially, it is a contract written in their favor. Many builders (home, pool, etc) expect a bonus if they complete a project before the deadline, esp. if you stipulate a penalty clause (I doubt Gibbens, or any other pool company, would go for that type of contract). I don't want to harp on the negatives too much, because when it is all said and done, we will have a gorgeous, well built pool (thanks to the subs). Likewise, there are two sides to every story, and I'm obviously biased. If you need any additional info, let me know. Good luck with pool build.

The cabinets I recently helped my brother tear out were solid pine, about 100 years old, painted, with inset doors and drawers. The cabinets themselves were clearly sticked in by a finish carpenter -- no fancy joinery there, just nicely fitted butt and miter joints fastened with lots o' nails. The end panels, shelves and vertical dividers were wide, clear pine boards; no frame-and-panel there. (Try and find a 22" wide, clear, straight-grained piece of pine today, though...) The doors were clearly made in a millwork shop somewhere else, all joinery cut with a shaper setup similar to modern cope-and-stick router bits; they weren't old enough to attribute to fancy hand molding planes. Drawers were rabbeted and nailed too (no dovetails), and their joints had lasted longer than the softwood wear surfaces they rode on. Five or ten years ago I remember finding some reprints of very old carpenters' guide-books, containing a lot of diagrams and note about how things ought to be assembled. Something like that might be useful. I know that Lee Valley carries a selection of reprints of old woodworking texts, so perhaps you can find something there. Maybe you could find an old house in your area that still has its original cabinetry, and get a look at how it was done.

suzienj- met with them today and scheduled the home measurements appt(wasn't to crazy about putting a $100 but we'll see) did like the fact they do everything even the painting. keep you posted. byw, they asked how i heard about them so i told them i'm researching kitchens/blog etc and mentioned someone from nj referred them. he mentioned your name but of course i did not know - too funny. anyway- i'll make sure they know you sent me there. trying to compare apples to apples and the price( and reputations) will have a lot to do with it.