I researched several ranges extensively, and recently bought & installed a new Wolf AG range. I almost bought a Viking since Viking has supposedly addressed all of the problems they've had for years, but the salesman asked that I buy an extended warranty on the Viking while he said I wouldn't really need one for the Wolf. I also called several major appliance repair stores in my state that are factory trained. I'm not sure if they got more calls for Viking repairs because of the ubiquity of the Viking, or whether the Wolf is less repair-prone. The repair guys said that the Wolf is made from better quality stainless steel, double-walled unlike the Viking, and more solidly made from higher quality components than Viking. Like the difference between a GM car and a BMW. BTW, if you're thinking of selling your house soon, every salesman at every store said to get the Viking because that's what high-end buyers want. I'm staying put, and simply put: I love the Wolf!!! I'm a serious cook, so I've used everything that this stove has to offer from convection fan baking, high BTU wok cooking, to the lowest simmer. The Wolf is a tremendous workhorse and delivers on every promise. BTW, my daughter was bummed when she returned to university and had to use her "crummy and slow" range in the house she rents with other students. That only heats to 10,000 BTUs and identical recipes turned out not as well on her range. While the Viking was definitely eye candy and appeared easier to clean, I have not regretted buying the Wolf for one moment. It's been a snap to keep clean. And I've grown to love the signature red knobs.

I would if possible choose a range top and separate wall ovens. That way you can choose each component rather than picking the burners you like and having to take the oven. I think that people have a bad opinion about Viking due to past problems. Middle by bought it but I have no idea if it is better or not. I always liked the look of them too. There was newer poster yesterday giving her opinion about Viking. Scroll to the bottom Viking vs capital As far as simmer Wolf and Thermador are very low BTUs and I would ask Viking what their BTU rating is if not listed on the website. Just as you compare the high end BTUs it is the same with low end. There are usually some kinds of issues that can arise for most brands but you have to look at how pervasive the issue is which is very hard to determine but when one person has the same issue with three of the same appliances it gives you an indication. Look at how the company handles the problem. There are all kinds of reviews here. In the end can you stomach the issues if you have pay yourself? Consider an extended service plan but read the terms carefully noting exclusions. As far as an oven, that to me seems to be the difficult thing to get right. I would try to bake in the ovens to see which bakes the best. Take an oven thermometer to see how close it keeps to a set temp. If you have a gas oven it can be on the "requiring more frequent tending" end of things anyway. Look at the size of the broiler. As far as a griddle most are steel which by nature are uneven. This is not all bad as many people like zones of heat. Some are thicker which makes the heat more even but they take longer to heat up and cool down. They should be able to tell you the thickness. I use an add on heavy gauge aluminum griddle when I need even heat, like for a large amount of grilled sandwiches because it has much better heat conduction so much more even and heats and cools quickly. It is also 15 inches wide so a lot more room. There are add on steel and cast iron griddles as well. You can even buy them that are fitted. Even if you like the built in, you can add an overlay if you need it, as they are very inexpensive. Cathi33 is right in that you have to look at how you cook now and consider what interests you will have in the near future. Some might tout something as a feature but it might not have any meaning for you and vice versa.

Thanks for your insights. Commenting on your questions in reverse order: (a) I do not have any experience with gas wok cooking, so even if I thought my induction wok technique was good, I couldn't compare. I can say that for quantities sufficient for several people, cooked sequentially in the induction wok and then combined and finished, my 3500W Cooktek can manage more than enough power. However, it heats a ring area of the wok so the very bottom (4-inch diameter?) is heated via conduction. I suspect a gas-experienced wok user would have to modify his technique somewhat. (b) I recommend reading the first dozen pages or so of Greenheck's guide: http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf particularly the table on airflow rates, to gain insight into this subject. I usually recommend 90 CFM/sq. ft. of hood entry aperture. This is realized (actual) flow rate; blower rated flow rate may need to be 1.5X or more of this value depending on various factors. Hoods need to overlap the cooking zone, and side skirts may be called for in some configurations. MUA is a big deal and needs to be addressed at the same time as the ventilation approach. (c) If you were to use a commercial wok burner and commercial hood, the fire suppression is built in. I don't know what options are available to avoid a possible sprinkler mess vs. some other kind of chemical spray mess. Non-messy halon extinguishers may not be allowed in a home. What is allowed needs to be discussed with your code enforcement officer. I don't doubt that there is some construction approach that should be acceptable, but it is likely location specific. Also, ask your insurance company. Give up the idea of nesting the range and hood into a nice set of wood cabinets if you are going commercial. Stove and hood may need to be spaced away from any walls, which in most residences are combustible, no matter what surface materials are used to protect them. In new construction, or with sufficient land, thought could be given to following the approach of 'higher-end' historical Chinese rural homes -- wood construction kitchens were separated from the wood construction living quarters for good reasons. http://yinyutang.pem.org/

Gas vs electric ovens. The nature of the heat in these ovens is different. Some people think it is significant while others don't. You will read on many websites and cookbooks that gas is moist heat, because the combustion reaction liberates water and so there are some who follow the gas= moist heat/electric=dry heat idea. If you look at only the heat source that would be right, but an oven is a lot more complex than that. To see what goes on, you have to look past the initial combustion reaction and notice what specific effects bakers and cooks consistently observe. Those effects are what we really care about. Whether you think a gas oven is moist or dry, most observations of these effects on both sides tend to be consistent. From there you can look at what we understand about the science behind these things and draw your own conclusion about the moisture level in ovens. Because gas does liberate water and other substances as a byproducts of combustion, gas ovens require a much bigger vent to remove these byproducts. It is observed that much more heat and moisture are released into the kitchen. You have more air flow. More airflow gives faster heat transfer. The implications for cooking are- It is much more difficult to keep added moisture in a gas oven. This primarily effects bread bakers who want to steam at the beginning. There are lots of devices to do this or you can use a cloche. Cooks report better browning with with gas. Read about the Maillard reaction or anything about promoting browning and crispiness and you will find that you need drying. More airflow increases the rate of heat transfer, leading to faster evaporation of water. Browning is promoted when superficial moisture is removed(drying). A convection fan increases air movement even more. The chemical reaction for browning cannot take place until water is evaporated. As long as water is there, it is cooling as it evaporates and keeps the temperature of the surface below what is necessary for the browning reaction to take place. This is also why you need high heat for stirfry, otherwise your food stews and doesn't brown. .Bakers often notice recipes for cakes that worked well in an electric oven, seemed to set prematurely in a gas oven. If you have always baked with gas, you might have selected over time recipes that work well with gas. Also if you use cake mixes, these are engineered and I'm pretty sure they have pixie dust in them to work in a lot of diverse situations. Electric ovens hold onto what moisture is lost from food while it is cooking. More moisture promotes starch gelatinization which gives a cake a little bit more rise before it sets. I like the browning on cakes( caramelized sugar) so I turn convection on and leave the door open briefly, enough to let moisture out. Another onservation you will hear is that the "moist heat of a gas oven" keeps a roast moist. You roast may be more moist but the moisture retained is a directly related to the end temperature of the meat. The website amazing ribs has great articles about the science of meat cookery. Because the outside Browns more quickly, the roast appears done before the inside overcooks. Aside from that electric ovens are more feature rich, with more control of direction of heat, fan speed and direction and may have tighter control of temperature. You have control of humidity in a combi steam oven. The down side is that it is all controlled by a computer board which can be damaged by heat and it can be tough sorting out all of the features and what they mean brand to brand. I don't think any one burner or oven is best for all cooks. It does seem from what you say about the way you cook, BS RNB would be a good fit for you. i currently have a Wolf DF which I would not recommend but it is because of the chipping blue liner that plagues Wolf electric ovens. I have really liked the burners and mine top at 15K BTUs. The simmer is really low and I use that a lot. The flare on high heat works because I mostly use high heat on big frying pans. I also have an Electrolux wall oven which I love but has had a few issues with blue enamel. Service lately has also been spotty. If I were I were buying now though I would go with a BS RNB rangetop, a combi steam oven and possibly another 30" wall oven or two. Most people that have BS with an open burner tray think they are easy to clean. Here is a video by one of our long time ago posters. https://youtu.be/3K2DR2ub1sA There the are a few who do not like the idea of seasoned cast iron for a burner tray and want to keep things pristine. Not a choice for that person.