OK better late than never. I finally got the wolf hood fan and broan 335 They are working as designed. For reference, my Wolf range hood was the pro hood..PW482718 I believe. Inside the hood there was just one electrical wire. This wire connects to the house 120V supply. There are also two regular electrical plugs inside the hood. These electrical plugs are where you plug in the blower (remote or internal) You will need your electrician to run a 3 conductor wire from the blower down to the range hood. Here are the differences between the Broan and Wolf remote blowers: The wolf external blower comes with a power cord that plugs into the plugs in the hood. You then splice this cord together with the cord from the remote blower and hide it in the junction box inside the hood. The broan remote blower does not come with this cord. Fortunately it is just a standard 3 prong plug. Just picture a computer power supply plug, and cut the end that connects into the power supply off. Just make sure it is rated for the amperage of the remote blower. Plug one end of this cord into the outlet inside the range hood, and splice the other end to the wires coming down from the remote blower. On the other hand you can purchase the official wolf cord but it is like $65 That's it, everything works as planned, the blower fan speeds are infinite. Lights, heat lamps, etc all work if wired this way. There may be slight differences cosmetically on the exterior of the blower, but without having both I can't say. All I can say is the broan 335 works with 100% with the wolf pro hood, you just need to supply a power cord.

I ended up selecting a Best by Broan iQ12 rated for 1200CFM and horizontal or vertical orientation. The blower has a sensor that calibrates the airflow depending on the pressure/resistance it senses. Does the job perfectly.

54-inches (4.5 ft) x 2 ft = 9 sq. ft. Desired volumetric flow rate to achieve 90 ft/min across the hood aperture is 90 x 9 = 810 CFM. Blower rating needed to pull 810 CFM with decent MUA will be around 1200 CFM, as you noted. Fantech provides 'fan-curve' data in the form of tables, and also plots. A 1200 CFM unit (at zero static pressure) will show a value near 810 CFM at some pressure drop (about 1.2 inches, w.c., for the FKD10XL). Excluding MUA, most pressure drop will be from the hood baffles, unless one has several tens of feet of duct. It would be useful for you to obtain pressure loss vs. flow rate data from Bluestar. Fantech in-line blowers are, I think, axial blowers (like a turbo jet pressure section) rather than a flat plate with radial fins (like turbo chargers use). Broan blowers, including inline, appear to all be the plate type. There is nothing wrong with these, but they may have a different characteristic fan curve shape than Fantech's blowers. I've never plotted both together. (It is important for residential blowers operated at uncontrolled pressure losses and any speed from low to high that they have monotonic fan curves. Else they might 'hunt' at some setting. That would be annoying.) Plate type blowers are least conspicuous built into a roof cap. Commercial up-blast blowers use induction motors often tied to the fan assembly via a belt and sheaves. These can be tailored to provide the desired CFM at lower fan speeds, thereby reducing noise. They are, however, significantly more conspicuous on the roof. The primary advantage to using a hood manufacturer's specified blower is that it will directly adapt to whatever fan speed controls are built into the hood. Other blowers may require some type of adapter or control replacement. So a Blue Star hood's control nature might have to be determined. My Wolf hood adapts to my Wolf blower, made by Broan/NuTone, and likely would work with any other single wire pair induction motor blower up to some motor power limit. The Fantech FKD10XL data sheet show curves for a 5-step transformer control, and for no control. One would have to check with them for compatibility with whatever the Bluestar hood uses, such as phase control. If you use an in-line blower, you also have to find a suitable roof or wall cap. Fantech many sell these. You should have a damper at the hood and also at the roof cap. You need to plan out the entire hood duct path. Is there room for a silencer? Can the duct path rise over its entire length (desirable)? What elbows are needed? Fantech makes some duct couplings that may prove useful. Hanger strap material will be needed. Sound dampening material may or may not be needed depending on blower assembly vibration, which is mostly, I expect, due to blower fan assembly balance quality. Best to match MUA actual flow rate to hood actual flow rate (ex: 810 CFM). This avoids all (well most) pressure drop in the house, conferring safety with combustion appliances and keeping the wall dust in the walls. If active MUA is needed to do this (depends on combustion appliances and their MUA, if any) then a blower that can provide the required CFM at the MUA path pressure loss (usually any air filters, but could include the heating scheme if hydronic). As usual, the duct diameter in the hood exhaust should support a full speed flow rate of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. The otherwise clean MUA path is not grease deposition constrained, but larger will reduce pressure loss if there is room -- useful particularly with passive MUA. I'll skip MUA control in this message, but it needs to be addressed. Commercial rigs usually run at constant speed (exhaust and MUA), so tuning is easy. Residential variable flow rate, along with perhaps a need to deal with other exhaust fans and fireplaces, imposes more difficult conditions for blower control. You might need a Fantech MUA setup, or their 10V control type blowers run by a controller trying to keep house pressure relative to outside within some bound.

Pull the fan disk and motor from the housing to provide a clear path for the air. Leave the damper but confirm that it works as expected. At a minimum, leaving the roof blower assembly intact will add significant pressure loss to the hood system air flow, thereby reducing the CFM achieved.