Just some little things... The narrow pullout bases can be very pricey - check with the cabinet maker. Remember that with framed cabinets, the pullout itself will be at least 3" less wide than the cabinet. With frameless, it will be 1.25 to 1.5" less wide. So if you want to stretch dollar bills, simply do larger cabinets. As an example, the 9" cabinet by the range can be married to the 22" drawer cabinet and produce a 30" cabinet with a 1.5" filler. It sounds ridiculous, but that alone can save a couple of hundred dollars. Having a filler is important when both sides of a cabinet run are up against a wall. Walls are rarely completely level, or square and the filler "takes up" those small differences. You need to allow some air space on both sides and the back of the ref - generally, its an inch or two. Corner pantries right beside a ref are difficult (not impossible) to do correctly. Unless you are getting a fancy ref, the doors of the ref need to be in front of the side wall of the pantry. If they aren't in front, the doors won't open at all. Also, if you need to pull the doors open past 90 degrees to clean, you need to insure the entire door depth can fit in front of the pantry and its door trim. Another small issue with corner pantries and ref huts - The counter should die into the side panel. The counter will be roughly 1.5" deeper than the base cabinets. But the over the ref cabinet needs to be mounted flush with the front of the side panel (or so the cabinet doors are flush to the front of the side panel). I'm not saying "don't do it". I'm saying be very careful and thoughtful about it because its very easy to get wrong - even when done by professionals. As drawn, you wouldn't be able to open the ref door all the way and the ref door and the pantry door have high probabilities of running into each other. There is no possibility of having the side panel turn out in the correct place or be the correct depth for the counter. Personally, I would make the cabinets the same heights - either 42" or 48". The every-other-one pattern looks cluttered. I'm a little bit wondering where you're going to keep the ladder.

Deck access has to stay where it is, got it. FYI for future projects, you can always make an opening smaller without replacing a header. You wouldn't have needed to order a custom sized door (unless you were trying not to deal with siding). So here's my idea based on the doors and windows staying in place with 2 people at home and 2 big dogs. My measurements are counter to counter, counter to fridge door (assumed 33" depth for box and doors), and counter to wall. I included a smallish coat closet by the front door. I realize that you keep most shoes and coats downstairs in the basement since you come in that way from the garage but a small coat closet upstairs would be useful for company or for other storage. Your husband will need to add a small header for this closet (I suspect this wall may not be load bearing but you'll still need a header). If you really don't need a coat closet in the front hall, add more pantry storage in its place with the fridge centered between the cabs, creating a "wall of tall" with loads of storage. If you do this, you may be able to get away without uppers on your range wall. I kept the existing doorway (but eliminated the door) so that if you're in the LR, you don't have to walk all the way down the hall, into the DR and then into the kitchen to get a beverage or snack. I'd find that a PITA. Keeping that opening also brings light into your front entry. It looks to be fairly dark with minimal views through to the back so keeping a doorway here would alleviate a tunnel feel for the space.If you can add skylights or windows into the front hallway, even better. Lastly, keeping that opening gives you 2 ways to get to the deck from the front hallway/entry. That's a plus when you have 2 big dogs who, I'm sure, have a habit of getting underfoot. ;-) I placed a 12" pull-out pantry cab between back of hall closet and fridge, pulled forward to be even with the fridge box. In the future, if you decide to opt for a counter depth fridge, you can always set this cab back against the wall. This cab between fridge and closet will allow room to open the fridge doors wide enough to pull out fridge drawers. I wouldn't go narrower than that and I might actually increase it to 15" since fridge specs do change. To give you more counter and storage space (despite its odd shape, it is a large space), I moved the clean-up sink and DW from the island to the far wall and added a prep sink to the island. This gives you a very good work triangle between fridge, pantry, prep sink and range with room to work at the island and on each side of the range. Oops, I meant to add a MW drawer to the island at the fridge end. I intentionally placed the prep sink at the right end so that you can use the left end of the island for a fridge and pantry landing zone. It will be a good place to set down bags of groceries. The island is inset from the range counter by 2" (my drawing makes it look like more than that). I had to guesstimate on the length of the island. I hope it's not less than 60" and hopefully it can be a bit longer. The distance between island and exterior wall is actually 35.7 (I rounded up). I wouldn't make this any narrower so that you can easily get from deck to fridge through this area (assuming you have a grill on the deck outside the kitchen). You didn't specify that you wanted island seating but you should be able to put 2 stools at this island. Mark it out on the floor with blue tape to see how it will lay out. I did the minimum recommended aisle of 44" behind one stool but I increased it to 50" between island and clean-up sink so it won't feel crowded when cab drawers are open. I added glass uppers on each side of the sink to create a lighter feel in the clean-up area. I don't know what kind of style you prefer but the glass can be clear, seeded, frosted, ribbed.... there are many options. Here are a few images of clean-up sinks against walls, not under windows, to inspire you: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/kitchens-by-julie-williams-design-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~114198) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Novato Kitchen & Bath Designers Julie Williams Design [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/design-build-industrial-kitchen-dc-metro-phvw-vp~931636) [Industrial Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/industrial-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2113) by Fairfax Station Design-Build Firms Kingston Design Remodeling [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/trish-namm-farmhouse-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~555498) [Farmhouse Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/farmhouse-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2114) by Kent Kitchen & Bath Designers Trish Namm, Allied ASID - Kent Kitchen Works [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/island-view-traditional-kitchen-boston-phvw-vp~696524) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boston Kitchen & Bath Designers Dalia Kitchen Design

Ok I'm convinced to a 60" round, hopefully with drop in leafs for extra seating. I spoke with the table maker today and he's on vaca until Saturday so we'll touch base early next week and finalize plan/start the actual build. After all the recommendations I'm thinking too that I'll only purchase 6 of the chairs and use my existing wooden ones for extras. We aren't big entertainers and would mostly have just another couple to host but this will provide a slightly more cost effective solution for when we do entertain more. @maggieq & @cyn427 @jjam - thanks for the chair info! Yikes about the experience with the Hudson chairs, esp for how pricey they are! I've heard such mixed reviews about the overall quality of RH, either wonderful or awful, but I've been coveting the Martine for so long that I'm cautiously willing to give them a try... And hope at worst I could have them brought to a re-upholsterer for future modification over buying fresh set at that time. Thanks again everyone, this has been Hugely helpful! :-)

Watch your dimensions and also think through your process for preparing a meal. In your drawing above, you need landing space to the right of the sink and your refrigerator doesn't look deep enough (my counter depth fridge has a counter depth fridge box, but the door and handles stick out another four inches for a total of 30".) Also, standard depth counters are 26", not 24.