Thank you all for the support with this drama. I need it. So this KD's list of changes say only this for the countertop: "MAKE ALL NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTS TO C/TOPS IN KITCHEN". So I wrote back, saying this leaves way too much open for interpretation. I would like specifics in writing, for both of our sakes and the builders'. Such as, the countertop overhang will be even throughout with up to 1/8th inch variance (now it's anywhere from 7/8ths to 1 3/8ths). And, the overhang will be a minimum of 1 1/4th inches, for example. Things we should have had in the first place, and what I wanted and requested, but they went ahead and did their own thing. Her response: "We will make adjustments as necessary. Please just let me take care of this, and I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the final results." What???!! I contacted the builder, who said, " I was assured they are addressing your concerns so we will move on to things we need to do at this time." The builder has been cc'd on the email exchange above, but has remained silent on whether they think it is a good idea for the countertop company to actually specify what they are going to do. kirkhall, countertops and cabinets are already paid for, unfortunately. If this wasn't through a builder, I never would have paid for work 100% in advance. Also, I asked for specs and design in advance, several times, and never got them. loves2read, we went through several of their houses early on, but none recently and I don't remember the countertops. I'm pretty sure if we asked now to go through a few houses, they'd know exactly what we were after. I've tried to find some pictures of laminate clipped corners online and was having some difficulties finding good pictures. So the way it is going is that the countertop people told the builder they would fix it, and the builder said "okay good", and that was that. I am the one asking for how exactly and specifically they plan to "fix" it. Autumn, I thought 1.5" was industry standard too, and I think it is for granite. Laminate though seems to vary, and some places really do 1", although that makes no sense to me and I don't think it looks very good w/ full overlay doors. I called Home Depot and they said usually they do 1" overhang-- 25 inch counters. So I fear I may be stuck with the 1" overhang if they do manage to make it even. I try to get everything in writing, but the agreement on 1.5" was verbal, and she is claiming she never said it now. Which is why I did request the design template, which she didn't give me. ANYWAY, I feel you Autumn all the way as I am very detail-oriented too. It is really hard for me as well to let go, and I am especially hard on myself when I think I picked the wrong thing or let something go that I wished I hadn't, ect. And you DO have a gorgeous house. :-) Isn't perfection the enemy of good? The pursuit of perfection is also the enemy of happiness, in my opinion. Though I do it anyway.... The builder has been really good about fixing other sub mistakes. It is this KD, who is in charge of cabinets and countertops, who I've had issues with since the beginning. The builder's manager, who is our primary contact point, seems to be pretty good friends with her. And there is the issue right there. And why my battle is probably a losing one. But just venting and having your empathetic "ears" has been so very helpful. Thank you so much.

todds, "Trap Arm" may be the notion you may need to work with. A longer "Trap Arm" lets peninsula sinks be properly connected to vertical vents that are in the closest wall. The window/counter setup you described is the same as whatever DWV plumbing setup happens for sinks in peninsulas of all shapes. No window needed. In other words, go pick up vertical venting over where there is no window. a.f.a.i.k. a house must have lots of real venting and almost no Studor/AAV venting. This is serious, in houses where there are toilets on a second floor above the main floor. It is less serious in a single-level house because there is no drain plumbing above the main floor ((i.e. on a second floor). Studor/AAV vents transfer air only one way, so they handle only "positive pressure". Real vents allow air to move both ways; this is required in most arms of the DWV plumbing branching tree. How to handle effluent is a serious concern, so don't let internet strangers advise you on cutting corners. Only someone on site can see the geometry you have in your DWV plumbing in your house. DWV plumbing requires a lot of 3D thinking. Words written are almost never good enough to describe everything, unless the person writing is a Master Plumber and the person reading it has the same level of knowledge allowing him/her to interpret the precise words, and they happen to agree on what they mean. This can happen in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers. But even there, it requires a few posts for them to go back and forth to be sure about what they mean. For many years, I have been participating in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers (under another handle/name). If you posted diagrams that showed critical distances very clearly, you could receive some comments that help you see more clearly what options you might have, in your case. When a DWV plumbing system is not well designed, it allows e.coli, salmonella, dangerous gases, and fecal matter waste contamination to spread beyond the area that should have contained it. In DWV plumbing an exchange of air for water happens every time you flush. The Studor\AAV thingie is an imperfect thingie that will one day fail (years from now); when it fails risk and danger are increased by several orders of magnitude. Before it fails, it is unable to handle air moving both into and out of it : it only lets air in, when negative pressure pulls air into it. Just remember that the answer to the question about Studor\AAV vents is always "maybe" until your entire house plumbing is known to the answering party. Hth

What are the following dimensions for A, B, C, D, E, F, G, and H? How would you feel about consolidating the windows on one end or the other or in the middle? I was thinking you could put them on the seating end so you have a great view while eating...whether in the DR or Kitchen. Or, maybe have one big window in the Kitchen... A coffee center (or beverage center) is a planned/designated location for a coffee machine that usually includes a nearby water source (for the coffeemaker if it's not plumbed directly) and the various items used for coffee (mugs, sugar, coffee, filters, etc.) Often there's also a small beverage refrigerator. It's usually on the periphery so someone getting coffee or another beverage or snack doesn't get in the way of those working in the kitchen. It's also usually located near everyday seating. Is there any way to fiddle w/that DR? Is there a reason the DR just sort of "hangs" there in the plans? It doesn't really seem to be located in a functional location b/c it's supposed to be formal but is in the middle of the house w/no walls, etc.. It's in the way of accessing both the LR & FR from the kitchen and seems to be more of an informal kitchen table space. (...It was intended that one space would be formal, the other informal...) It just seems very awkward. Was the DR originally located where the Chapel is? That would explain the awkwardness...moving it elsewhere in a "make do" location. Can you expand the plans at all to try and create a true DR?

I really appreciate all the responses but it has led me to a different question...if we don't do a two level counter, where do you put outlets that would normally go in the backsplash area AND does anyone ever have things getting pushed off the back of the counter? I can see me tossing my keys on the counter when I come in with an arm full of groceries and they slide off into the floor...maybe it's a non-issue...one of those silly things I think about it!