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Grainlady, sorry, I seem to have chosen my words poorly with my statement of you living your life around the laundry. I did not mean for it to sound negative as it appears you may have taken it, instead, it was actually a compliment to how well you plan your tasks. And a slave to laundry is exactly what that LG was going to do to me. Fortunately, it went back to the store today, and a different unit comes tomorrow! Gslgal, I still don't think I was over using soap, as I was also testing an HE - the Kirkland Free & Clear liquid HE, at 1/2 the max line. My water is 7.6pH (slightly alkaline) and 20 gpg, extremely hard. As I posted elsewhere, what I found interesting before they took the LG FL away today, was that with the amount of water that LG would use, there was little to no sudsing. When I added water manually, the more water, the more sudsing I would see. This happened in both the wash and the rinse cycles. I found this very strange, as I had thought that I was diluting the soap, and thereby diluting its ability to suds. Instead, the more water helped it to froth up. Oh, the soap brand did not seem to matter. It did this with Ariel (2 tbls), FAB (3 tbls) and also Kirkland Free & Clear HE (1/2 of max line). I like the FAB the best so far, as even though it does suds a small amount, it seems to rinse out much better unlike the other soaps. What else is strange is that the harder the water, the more detergent that has always been recommended, yet I am using the same or in the case of FAB, less than, others, who state having softer water, have posted. The problem you had with the removal of the dog hair is because it is an insoluble that requires water to remove. I was nearly floored the other day at Lowes when I read in their catalog on F&P products where F&P was saying that one of their units allowed the user to increase the water to remove the insoluble items such as hair, sand and lint that would not otherwise be removed. They actually admitted that it would not otherwise be removed! I wonder how long that will remain in the literature..... Suburbanmd, I must have been lucky with my prior W&D set. My dryer is gas (I'm keeping my old, working unit - can you say I'm cheap?). The only time I would have a backup at the dryer was when I was drying the load of towels. I compensated for this by having worked out what was washed in what order so that towels were being dried while the small load of dark undies were being washed. When they were finished, they were place on top of the dryer while I next washed the small load of whites. When the whites were done, out came the towels and in went the two small loads that had finished, making a more decent sized load anyhow for the dryer to run and being more efficient with the gas. With this method, I had a constant throughput with no backups at either machine. SeattleMike, I definitely agree with you that going from TL to FL is a major change. Also a major change is going from a non-water saver to a water saver model. I'm still trying - that's why I bought another water saver - just less of a saver. Hopefully it works well for me when it arrives tomorrow, as I really like the tub size of 4.5 cf. I already have sorted out my test loads! Thanks to all for all the great input!!! Schutzhund

phyl - about the quality? about the acronym? Sorry -- how do I know what? :) About the quality -- well, I know it the same way everyone else knows it -- you see it in someone's house and you think "hey, that looks pretty fine" and then you look closer. You see it in a store and you think - hey, that looks great, only ... then you look closer. You see what these things look like in houses with time. I see them online and living in a massive urban importing-area (LA), I even at one point noticed an online place that had a "warehouse/showroom" close-ish to me (40 min drive) so I went to look at the stuff. And it looks neat there in person, too. But the quality isn't great. There's massive amounts of wasted space between drawers, and pressboard, and staples -- all the stuff we all know about regarding kitchen cabinets. It's all the same-old. And sometimes we're OK with lesser quality; heck we most of us will die before even these lower-quality cabinets deteriorate anyway. But truthfully, my maquilladora-hand/custom-made kitchen cabinets make me smile every day ..... oh wait, I'm suddenly remembering what you meant in the "how do you know" department!! Didn't I say ask me about the faucet-sink mismatch!? lol. Well --- OK, so you're not wanting diatribe #47 about why I'm completely non-plussed about bathroom cabinetry and am still living with a non-functional bathroom after 2 years .... it's the faucet story you want! :) OK - I bought a really nice sideboard used to make into a vanity for my kids' bathroom and wanted, per their instructions, for the sink to be "pretty" -- so I got a really pretty sink bowl and then went to look for faucets to match its 'prettiness' with the help of I thought a really good small-time favorite-of-the-trades plumbing shop locally, run by a real live person-who-knows-everything. She steered me to these "perfect" faucets that were really pretty and matched the sink perfectly only ... somehow she managed to forget to think about the throw, or whatever the correct word is, of that faucet. It's way too close to the back edge of the sink. It's been a constant headache ever since. Constant. I'm so annoyed! This is supposed to have been her specialty and honestly, it's not rocket science. What else is there to think about if you're selling faucets to go with a sink? *I* didn't know about it because I'd never done this before! But I won't make that same mistake again and you shouldn't either. Make sure the faucet's spout comes out far enough to be close-ish to the sink's drain hole. :) OK, so that's what you wanted to know, right? sigh.... There is not one single solitary day for two years now I have not rued the choice of those faucets! Beware!!!!

IMO, when a fabricator screws up an install, he has to do whatever it takes to correct his mistakes and make the job look and function the way it is supposed to. If he cuts the granite too small leaving large gaps where there shouldn't be any, he needs to correct that. He can't just squirt caulk in the gaps and call it a day. Tre's solution above would work for the overhangs, but what about the ends of the countertop where it meets the wall or is adjacent to a cabinet? How do they intend to fix the gaps there? How do they propose to fix the yellow filled areas? The crack at the sink? The blue showing between the countertop and the sink? I would want them to be very clear in explaining how they intend to address each and every issue before proceeding. I'm a little unclear on this ... did they consider your job completed when they left last week?