well drilling site?
18 years ago
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- 18 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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Poison Ivy , Septic Beds and Drilled Wells - Help
Comments (8)Several studies have shown that either the glyphosphate in Roundup, or the surfactant in it that allows it to penetrate and kill the plant, is highly lethal to amphibians, and and to earthworms. Other studies have shown that it interfers with hormones and damages human placental cells, and possibly the placental cells of other mammals (you wouldn't want to spray it anywhere near where farm animals graze). It can inhibit mycorrhizal fungi (a bacteria that helps plants take up vital nutrients), and there are reports it can kill beneficial insects like parasitic wasps and lacewings. I have not read anything about using it around septic beds, but given that it is implicated in harming or inhibiting many organisins, including bacteria, I'd not recommend using it there. Ditto for your well area. I would suggest you rethink your desire to get rid of the clover too. Clover has been rebranded a weed only since the developement of broad leaf weed killers. Prior to that it was a very much desired addition to lawns because of it's ability to remain green throughout the heat and drought of summer. It also fixes nitrogen, allowing a healthier grass growth, which in turn discouraged other weeds. I've never read anything about poison ivy and veggies. Even if the veggies can't take up the urushiol, it can't be good to garden in poison ivy :-) Poison ivy is a pain in the a**!!!!! Most people don't have a reaction to it the first time they come into contact with it, so your experience is normal. It takes one or two exposures to become sensitized to it first. Lots of people also report that dogs don't have problems with it, but they can get the oils on their fur which then become a problem for you when you pat the dog. You can keep it to a minimum if you are dilligent about pulling it up as soon as you see it. Since you just moved, you might have a lot right now. You can buy cheap gardening gloves at a dollar store and latex gloves at a drug store. Use both! Put your feet into a couple of trash bags (might want to use two or three layers if they're thin), and tape them shut as high as they'll go and you're fairly well (and cheaply) protected form the oil. Throw out the gloves and trash bags inside another trash bag. You can also pick up some cheap clothing at a local thrift shop - wear it while removing it and them throw it away. By removing what you can see, you'll cause a growth spurt from any remailing stuff, but if you repeat the process every week or two for this summer, you'll have gotten rid of most of it without having had to resort to Roundup. Check nearby trees and undergrowth for old vines - they're hairy. If they're too big or high to remove easily, just hack through them and remove what you can - the rest of the higher up stuff will die and be out of the way so you won't need to worry about it. It sounds like a great place though! You're so lucky to have that much room! A lot of work to bring it into shape, but that's half the fun :-) BP...See MoreWANTED: Smoke & Mirrors of portable water well drilling rigs.
Comments (1)Checkout the archives at mother earth news, they have welldriver plans which look very good.GoodLuck!...See MoreDrill Well First?
Comments (21)Well, I thought I submitted this, so here goes again. Sorry if it ends up being a duplicate. To elaborate on Jason's post: "I know that you have to have both a well and a septic permit before you can build, and given the fact we know where both the water tables and soil types are for all of Michigan, we do it last. Before even the lot is mowed, we know EXACTLY where the well goes, and exactly what type of septic system will be put in, where, the amount of digging, pipes/chambers, and even fill and type. You have far higher a likelihood of a problem putting it in first, rather than last. That stuff is too easily damaged by everything from excavators and heavy equipment to light pickups to risk it, particularly when you already know where it goes." When we were looking for property in SE Michigan a few years ago, the county adjacent to the one we built in had a "well first" requirement, due to a couple of townships there having a lot of construction with all of the houses on wells. At one point they even limited building permits due to water issues. So find out who will approve the final well or septic installation to know what you need to do legally. Then consider all of the other suggestions made by others. I would not trust any contractor's SUBS to pay attention to where you don't want them to do something. Our sub-contractors promised everything (we were owner-builders, but the same would probably hold true for any GC), but their workers did what they wanted on certain issues. Our worst case, the framer's 25 year old son bopped around the site in the heavy equipment like it was a bumper car, ruining part of the stone retaining wall, pushing dirt into the window well opening, backing over some trusses, etc. It's a VERY good thing that our well and septic were not in yet. If you have someone else do the landscaping, be sure you are there to watch out for the well and septic as they move their equipment around. Also, FWIW, be sure to ask the right people the right questions. Before we bought our lot, I went to the county health department, since they approve the septic systems and wells here, to check on the septic location. Our plot plan had the septic and reserve drawn on it 50' from the river. The woman at the desk said that since our sub had been platted by a builder and the entire thing had been previously approved (in 1989), that we'd have no problem. Fortunately for us, our township building dept required the well/septic permit from the county at the time we submitted our building plans. When we took our site plan in to the well/septic inspector to discuss options (shapes), he said the septic had to be 100' from the river. In 1991 (?) there was a national rivers act passed requiring this, so that took precedence over the previous limit. We had to change the house plan and its location on the lot to meet the 100' requirement (not an easy thing to do with our site), as well as the 10' from the house requirement for the septic. I do not have a problem with the requirements that are designed to protect water quality--I just want to know what's ok before it'll cost money to change it! Also, we had a restriction in our deed (the only lot in the entire sub that had this, even though our lot is higher than the neighbors on each side and most of the rest of the sub) about exactly how far below the existing surface the bottom of the septic could be. This also determined the depth of the house since the plumbing waste PVC has to slant so many inches per so many feet on its way to the septic tank or you have to have a pump if it's too low. When they'd done the soil sample, they found that sometime in the geologic past there had been water that disturbed the soil not too far down (we're on a peninsula, so it could have been any time, apparently). I visited a builder's house in the adjacent more restrictive county where the trenches for the septic field had been dug too deep, so he had to relocate the septic field further away across a ravine (!) and at greater expense. We have friends who are building a home on the bend of a creek/river in a beautiful sub in Georgia. They say there are no municipal requirements for the septic. It will be located in the FLOOD PLAIN as will the lower level walkout and the garage. DH and I tried to talk to them about this, but they were oblivious. There are no 100 year/1000 year flood surveys of this area. Anyone who is in an area without requirements or surveys, will find it in their best interests to find out what issues might be there, as you are doing, so they don't have problems down the road. Anne...See MoreShallow Well - Clean Out or Drill New
Comments (3)around here the water table is usually less than 5 feet down, even during summer drought, since we are literally on teh MS river. even so, everyone puts in a well at least 100 ft deep. keep in mind that your well is going to cost you at least 10-15.00 a month to run. and the initial install is going to be several thousand, so it will take years to break even on it....See MoreRelated Professionals
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