I think you have to decide if you want to paint it or stain it first. If you are going to paint it, then you can go with the lightweight fake stuff. It only needs to be flexible if you have say a curve in your ceiling or you want to curve the molding. The lightweight stuff can go up with construction adhesive (liquid nails) and small nails to tack it while the glue dries ... easiest to do with a nail gun. If you are going to stain it, then it has to be real wood which will use a different adhesive and heavier nails. Also, I'm presuming you want just applied molding like a picture frame molding to create some shapes or style. If you want a coffered ceiling, than that's a different ball of wax and you'd best get a pro carpenter to do that for you. Stained trim on ceiling [Traditional Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2107) by Western Springs Architects & Designers Studio 1 Architects Coffered ceiling [Traditional Living Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-living-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_718~s_2107) by Atlanta Interior Designers & Decorators Christy Dillard Kratzer

I've found stains like that in similar closed in spaces, including behind heavy, nearly-immovable cabinets and hutches. They happen in houses that have, or have had, high summer humidity - typically those that have lots of trees around them. Spores love warm, dark, damp places. Just mix up a 20-30% bleach solution and scrub it down. Work with ample ventilation and wear rubber gloves and goggles. Rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. Spackle, sand, prime, and paint. Keep the area better ventilated in the future and It'll be fine. BTW, very few types of mold are actually harmful, unless you have severe allergies.

Charles Ross Homes- Thanks so much for the extra info on the need for tempered glass. I was originally going to do a semi circle type arch at the top, which was nearly $4,000 for that window section...so the 3 rectangles will be much cheaper overall. I am still debating if I want to do the full picture window from 7.5 inches from floor to my 96inch header...or do the awning window at the bottom. If I do the picture windows, the door directly to the left will have a retractable screen. We are building in woods, so there won't really be airflow, we just want to hear nature. ILOVERED-good point. My kiddos are older..and we would definitely babyproof for grandbabies...but there are so many other hazards that a locked window at that stage. Thanks to everyone for the calculations...I started with Google..but big difference between 5 and 8 inches!!! CP-Thanks for the photos. I'm thinking 1*8 for baseboard, 1*6 for above doors/windows and maybe 1*4 for the sides of my doors. I don't want anything too fancy. JuneKnow-Interesting. I pulled out all my crown molding and put 1*4 baseboard trim in my 8ft ceiling flip house. I like the nice look of the trim, but the cleaner look on the ceiling. I use to love crown molding...but I'm getting a little simpler in my tastes as I age. Still like nice and expensive...just a lot more things in my house to focus on than some crown molding 10 ft high.

What about a table lamp and will save the cost of an electrician installing sconses. As well, if you plan on changing dresser eventually, the installed lights, may not work size and shape wise. Nothing above mirror.