Hmmmm...normal...hard to say. I think 'acceptable' would be a better word. If this was new construction, then the phrase would be "Is this built to code?" Placing 1" hardwood steps over each old step will not change the run and rise, but unless you are installing new flooring where the first step begins, then...yes...that will be the higher step, at least higher than it was before. However, measure from that floor to the top of the first step, and from the first step to the top of the next one and on up. Is there any difference between the first measurement and the others? That will help tell you what the difference will be for that first step...you will know how much higher it is. Do the same for the next to last step and the step before the landing. Take into account the 3/4" hardwood on the landing level...if the difference is 1/4" or less, you should have no problem there; most people won't trip on a step 1/4" higher than the others. As for the first higher step (if that is the case)...most people can negotiate a higher step, if that happens to be the only one higher in the run.

Liz, yes, just ask for a bullnose piece, just make sure it's a bit wider than you need so they can cut it to the proper length...here's a website http://www.woodfloorsonline.com/techtalk/stairs_stairparts_staircases.html You do that if your stairs are covered with wood or carpet and are using wood floors as your landing at the top of the stairs...it would give a better look. I bought all the supplies from my local wholesaler, 3000 pounds of 3/4 white oak my son and I had to bring inside...so I know your pain, ours wasn't in boxes..60 7 foot strips that were tie bundled and it wasn't pretty when the ties wiggled free...on the shoe molding...you might want to make sure you get quarter round, it is a bit deeper than typical shoe molding and will hide more flaws if they don't take the wood flush with the wall... Good luck! I'll show pictures of our floor today and the bullnose installed for you! :) Tara

Im confused..... You say you want "real hardwoods" on the stairs and prefinished "real hardwoods" in the bedrooms. It sounds like you're wanting the same "type" wood with the same "type" finish and the same "type" top coat on it. You know that apples-to-apples thing. So why not prefinished for the stairs too? Then it is the same. I doubt you would save any money by having an installer finish the wood for you. But, if for some reason you need one stained and one not then have your installer bring you samples of the stairs that he has match-finished. Or, if you plan to do this yourself- have an actual paint store (not HD or Lowes-- but a paint expert) "match" the prefinished "real hardwoods" for you to sample stain several pieces on. See if it looks "real" enough to you. We did that when having our alder cabinets stained to match the knot colors in our unstained oak floors. BTW....Engineered is real wood with several layers under it that criss-cross (usually 5-7). In some areas of the country people are advised not to put down solid hardwood that might "pop" on cement floors. This is usually the case for those that live in the western states as almost all homes are built on slab. Laminate is basically a photograph. And just like any photograph some are bad and some are great.

Just checking on the cherry. Can't say I'm too fond of oak myself. There are few instances where balustrade removal and replacement work out too well unless you're disassembling the stair re-milling and reassembling it. Even then unless you are talking about a stair that's made out of a rare or exotic lumber that would exceed the cost of the time and labor of doing so It is not often the best practice. I would still use care taking it apart and use it to make something else. How solid are the newels, are they loose surface mount or do they go into the floor? Iron is nice. You can either use a metal rail or wood on top of it. For a long while iron/steel balusters were a bit less expensive than wood but now they are comparable. The wood rail will usually be less expensive than the metal and easier to install. Newel posts can be either as wood newels match the iron quite well. A few of the things I was mentioning about not being correct in the drawings were the balusters and newels. The newel is an Arcways product whose turning is sized for the 30" rail heights of days long gone by. Note the extremely tall base. The balusters are StaiParts Inc. made for the same. The upper turnings don't even come close to matching the rake of the stair which is common for too many stair part manufacturers. Even with the stair and balcony rail set to the highest height in order to use a closer matching baluster combination to make it less noticeable. Arcways however does have some fabulous rails and fittings, checks their small orders for matching, offers cherry as a stock item and will sell directly to homeowners. They also carry iron and steel balusters. I believe OakPoint sells direct and Crown sells through Brosco/Brockway Smith, 84 Lumber and even a few Lowe's locations as well as numerous stair companies. Use the dealer locator on their website. Both have a good selection, have cherry as stock on some of their profiles, good quality and a product line that looks correct for todays codes. "Solid" or one piece treads sound nice but they are not really what you want unless they have relief milling on the underside and even then it's not much of a guarantee against checking or cupping especially if they are only 3/4 thick". How will the 1 1/4"+ overhang hold up? Construction adhesive and a finish nail through the top of the finish isn't going to last too long and will squeak like crazy after a while. A typical tread is 1 1/16" thick and will be made of three to 5 pieces. Cherry treads are most often made "in house" from random width/length material and a good stair shop will cut out any sap wood, match the grain and the leading piece will be well beyond the riser. Engineered treads are also available but like everything they have their pros and cons and I think the cons still outweigh the pros. The open left end should have a return nosing mitered into the front left corner and extend past the next riser by the same distance as the overhang with a scotia below. That is the dark piece I am showing on the edge of the tread in the image above. If you go through your phone book or search for stair companies or stair manufacturers and not stair part manufacturers you should find a few. If you call a stair parts manufacturer they will direct you to someone in your area that they sell to. I was looking for the dimension of the face of riser to face of riser or the run. I'm assuming 7" is the height? Floor to floor height. From the top of the plywood where the upper stair lands to the top of the vinyl on the landing and from the top of the vinyl on the landing to the top of the vinyl(?) in the basement. If the vinyl is flat I would agree with keeping it in place if the glue has failed and it's lifting remove it and in either scenario use a quality felt paper underlayment. Did you already place the order with the millwork shop? How soon do you need to get this done? I really think it would be in your best interest to explore all avenues and plan out the whole project before you buy anything. As Casey noted above it is often cheaper to remove all and replace. It would take you less time to install the two units than it would to even do one single tread.