skip to main content

Home Decorating

Buying Guide for Interior Doors? Need help choosing...

10 years ago

Hi,

Is anyone aware of any type of buying guide or general rules of thumb when choosing the style of interior doors? I've searched all over the web and can't come up with anything.

We have a mid-1950's split-level house that we have gutted. I tend to lean away from the six-panel types and prefer two or three panel with an arched top. However, I'm afraid that might be more "victorian" in nature. I know the shaker style doors are nice in craftsman style homes.

Anyone have any ideas about what would go in a split level house? The house is kind of a blank canvas at this point. We have medium brown oak hard wood floors and will have white mouldings, trim, etc.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

joaniepoanie
10 years ago
Try going to houzz.com and search interior door style for 50's house....that should give you some ideas.
0
ineffablespace
10 years ago
What was there originally?

A plain solid-core slab is always a reasonable option for a house of that era, and they are not expensive. Since they are so plain, the sturdiness of a solid door has a nice feel to it compared to a hollow door.
0
Related Discussions
Please help me choose interior doors: some solid/some hollow?
Q
Comments (13)
I don't know that you can get a real looking Shaker hollow door because the flat recessed panel area would have to be very thin in cross section. In my experience the raised panel portion of a hollow door is much thicker than the raised panel on a solid wood door, almost as thick as the stiles and rails themselves in cross section. Stylistically I don't think a 6 raised panel will work well on closets with the Shaker on the room doors. In a hierarchical sense, the Room door is the Primary door and should be fancier or more detailed than closet doors if they are not all going to match. I see nothing wrong, if you are not matching doors, with using a Shaker door on the room door and using plain slab doors in a paint grade with a good paint job on them for the closets, so that the closets take a stylistic back seat to the room doors. As for hollow vs. solid. I am strongly biased toward solid even for pocket doors. It is the hanging hardware and the workmanship of the hang that dictates their proper function, not the weight of the doors. The houses in my neighborhood have pocket doors that are 10 feet tall and four feet wide that are Very heavy. But you have to get good hardware, have a good carpenter do the install, and *make *sure * the *finish *carpenters *don't *nail *the *baseboards* and *door *casings *through the *drywall *and *into *the *pocket *doors *themselves*. It Happens. A Lot.
...See More
Need help choosing a new door between FR and garage
Q
Comments (8)
Your house only has to meet the code requirements in place when it was built unless you are substantially changing it. So if you are replacing it "in kind" you should match it exactly, but if you change it in any way you should neet the current building code. Of course, it would be wise to use the current code as your guide in any event. I don't have a copy of the 2006 residential code for New Jersey but I know it is based on the International Residential Code which I do have and the requirement is now a 1 3/8" (min.) solid core wood door with no rated frame, UL hardware, or closer required. (Such a door, if tested in a rated frame and wall, is assumed by the building code to achieve a 20-minute fire rating.) Alternatively, the code also allows a solid or honeycomb core steel door, or any door that has been tested with a 20-minute fire rating. So, get a solid core flush door with a suitable veneer for stain or paint or get a wood paneled door assembly with a 20-minute rating. Rated wood paneled doors are expensive and come with a rated frame. In some states the NFPA 101 Life Safety Code is in effect (sometimes enforced by fire departments) and it usually requires a 1-hour door. This requirement seems pointless since the door is not required to be in a 1-hour rated wall.
...See More
Need some help with trim and interior door colors
Q
Comments (1)
bump. Anyone??
...See More
Need advice and help on choosing modern/minimalistic door casing
Q
Comments (13)
Jackson, I recommend you check your local lumbar yard for dressed (four sides or D4S) poplar. It is clear (minimal knots) wood that has been smoothed, flattened and ideal for painting. It may also come pre-primed. For casing and baseboard use it is available in 1/2” and 3/4” thicknesses with various widths including 2-1/2, 3-1/2 and 5-1/2”. We have 8 ft ceilings and we used 5-1/2” boards for the base and 2-1/2” for the casing. MDF is another option and less expensive. You may find other modern casing options at your lumbar yard. We find our local lumbar yard will have a better selection of millwork than the big box stores. For dressed lumber it is also much less expensive at the lumbar yard.
...See More
Karenseb
10 years ago
My daughter is going for a slab door in her 60's ranch (that is what was there originally.) I thought a 5 paneled door like this would also look good. If you could find it in a 3 panel door that would look good too.
0
mdp0430
Original Author
10 years ago
Thank you for the responses.

Unfortuntely, not much turned up at Houzz, it was the first place that I looked...

The previous doors were plain hollow wood. Since the house is only 1700 sq. ft. I was hoping to pick up some style points with the doors...

Hey, that looks like a masonite door. I was thinking maybe the Masonite MDF 3 Panel Square smooth...

What's the consensus on the interior doors matching the front exterior door?

Thanks everyone!
0
Elraes Miller
10 years ago
I am in a 50s house and wish my head had been on straight to select 3 panel. There were slabs when I moved in which created nothing in the way of decor personally and seemed drab or out of place. The panel doors I did choose brightened up the house and made everything feel clean/open.

The only problem I had was with one opening requiring reworking the hinge placements on the frame. A first door was ordered with the frame and a total pain to install because of plaster walls, dealing with trim, angles, etc. I decided just to order the doors since the existing frames were smooth and sturdy. They fit easily into the frames and no adjustments needed. Suspect they were reframed at some point as I did not have any issues with angles or fit.

You have a ton of options, the 50s tend to stay on standard sizing. With a blank slate as you mentioned, easy to go in the direction of your style. Although I wouldn't go towards too much design. A 3 panel would look great, which is where I wanted to go.

A personal take as my one level cottage doesn't feel like it could take on arches. Even though it does have wall entries with arches.

As for the exterior match, there are a number of threads which have mentioned this. The exterior of your home would be part of the deciding point. I have a front door sitting for install. It is a used solid wood door in perfect condition with a Speakeasy in it. 20s, Southwestern style? Still intrigued with it. I know the interior look will work, not sure about exterior. Far from the 50s, but these houses do give us some leash for decor inside and out.

If you still have the original hardware, hang on to them. I changed all and now wish the solid aged brass was kept.
0

Related Stories

ART Let's Put a Price on Art: Your Guide to Art Costs and Buying

By Vanessa Brunner

We paint you a picture of what affects an artwork's price — plus a little-known way to take home what you love when it's beyond your budget

KITCHEN CABINETS Your Guide to Choosing Kitchen Cabinets

By Vanessa Brunner

Updating your kitchen? See designers' top choices for kitchen cabinet styles, hardware choices, colors, finishes and more

MOST POPULAR How to Choose a Front Door Color

By Vanessa Brunner

If choosing a door paint isn't an open-and-shut case for you, here's help

DECORATING GUIDES How to Choose an Awesome Area Rug No Matter What Your Space

By Apartment 46 for the Home

High use, a low door, kids and pets running amok — whatever your area endures, this insight will help you find the right rug for it

DECLUTTERING Downsizing Help: Choosing What Furniture to Leave Behind

By Becky Dietrich, Interior Designer

What to take, what to buy, how to make your favorite furniture fit ... get some answers from a homeowner who scaled way down

WINDOW TREATMENTS How to Choose the Right Window Shades

By Becky Dietrich, Interior Designer

Should you roll with rollers or do as the Romans do? This mini guide to choosing window shades can help

COLOR Ready to Try Something New? Houzz Guides to Color for Your Kitchen

By Vanessa Brunner

If only mixing up a kitchen color palette were as easy as mixing batter. Here’s help for choosing wall, cabinet, island and backsplash hues

ART Collect With Confidence: An Art-Buying Guide for Beginners

By Laura Gaskill

Don't let a lack of knowledge or limited funds keep you from the joy of owning art. This guide will put you on the collector's path

DECORATING GUIDES A Beginner's Mini Guide to Buying Antiques

By Laura Gaskill

Experience the thrill of the hunt without ignorance ruining the spoils, with this guide to antiquing for novice buyers

WINDOW TREATMENTS How to Choose the Right Curtains

By Sophie Baylis

Custom or ready-made? Pinch or pencil pleats? Knowing the options will help you decide which window coverings are right for your space

Sponsored

More Discussions

How would you lay out this living room?

37

Help! Curtains for two huge double sliders?

5

Provenza New Wave Bashful Beige or Lunar Glow - Install photos?

2

Help for studio layout?

3

Dining room table??

0