Glidden's new Ultra High Gloss Trim and Door Paint--NOT happy
trinityklm
12 years ago
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trinityklm
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Major Dilemma, Should I Convert to White Trim or Keep Original?
Comments (38)I remember the craze, in the 1980s, to strip every old piece of furniture to "expose the beautiful wood grain." And you'd see pieces in the antiques shows/shops with these crazy grains, mismatched woods, etc. My mom always said, "the guy who made this would be beside himself to see his ingenious usage of scrap wood exposed like this. If he thought you were going to stain it, he'd have at least made sure to use the same species of wood, and he'd have hidden the crazy grain on the shelf or in the back." Oh yes! & I, personally, think the appearance of old wood rarely benefits from application of poly. When I rebuilt a pantry window (1913 house) I found the casing was painted quarter-sawn oak. I'm sure it was always painted - and that much of the house was trimmed with scrap wood. That window remains uncased while I do other things. I haven't uncovered the other casing to confirm my scrap-wood theory. If it's not all nice 1/4-sawn I'll find somewhere else to use that and put something new (paintable) on the window. My first experience stripping paint was in the 1950's, as a child. My mother had an impulse to strip all the oak woodwork in her 1911 house and, as always, enlisted the passel of kids to help. We used stryp-eze - the harshest stuff almost - and no masks or gloves. We did a staircase, 8-10 double hung windows, some doorways. It's not something I would recommend, obviously, the use of the kids (or stryp-eze) but it's an indication that stripping paint is not rocket science. In her next house mom stripped '30's era "blonding" from a whole lot more oak woodwork, without help from any kids but this time she wore gloves and used a LYE solution & a WIRE BRUSH. (Blonding involves grain filler, I believe.) It was, for some reason, her habit to stain wood without any further finish and that made for an easier job - at least one that required less finesse and skill. So, besides self-indulgently remembering a couple of stories, my point is that it's tedious and annoying to strip paint but it doesn't require that much skill and it can easily be diy....See MoreNew home construction- best paints
Comments (9)All the painters we've interviewed say BM stores are independently owned, therefore can't get quantities larger than 1 gallon and very little discount to painters, that BM is mainly used to redecorate rooms. Those are interesting comments. "Mainly used to redecorate rooms" is a silly thing to say. Ben Moore paints are used for paint jobs of all sizes up to and including industrial and commercial. If you've talked to someone at the Ben Moore store and they are carrying Aura, I would guess it's not a small, independent, Mom & Pop type Ben Moore paint store with limited capabilities. They are carrying Aura, that hints to some volume and capacity for having a clue about what's new and up-to-date. I don't think Aura comes in 5 gallon buckets. Even if the store doesn't do 5's at all, so what. Buying paint in single gallons might be less convenient for the painter to work with, but since there's not much of a discount (apparently) anyway it really shouldn't matter outside of being less convenient. You're paying for the paint so what's it to them. Something isn't adding up here in the painter's story. A painter should be able to tell you how much paint and primer is needed. That's their job and it can be different for every painter. Some guys do two full coats and some others do two fffuuuulll coats -- they all paint differently. It's my opinion that no one can make the call about how much paint better than the guy doing the painting cause he knows how he paints. Make sense? It's not your job to determine how much paint is needed. I would agree about priming the new drywall for Aura. Although I know of one new house where they did not. Not surprised that's what the Ben Moore store told you. The whole thing with Aura is that it doesn't require primer and no more than two coats - so what else would the store say, KWIM. That's why you need a good painter. If you had a good painter, he'd tell you to prime before Aura and why. Luckily, you have the guys here for input and second opinion. Again, if it were my new house and my money going to pay for the gallons of Aura, the walls would be primed first. Working mainly with the uber brands of paint, I can't tell you how many painters don't understand. Just this week, I spec'd Aura for a dining room and the painter keeps referring to it as "that fancy stuff". Even after he uses it and even if he thinks it's a great product, he will never be able to get past the fact that it's $55 a gallon. Stuck. In a rut. Will never see the light. Good luck with the project....See Moretrim & ceiling color to go w/sw nomadic desert - please help!
Comments (37)Just to follow up, Kilim Beige on the walls with Alabaster trim/ceiling looks great in the new house! I love the colors with the dark walnut doors/cabinets and bronze fixtures. They just hooked up electrical so it looks nice with artificial light as well. Sometimes I regret not looking into SW Pavilion Beige, but I don't know why I do that to myself...what's done is done and I should be so relieved that Kilim Beige looks great! When they first painted I thought I saw peach undertones and I panicked. But I did not see that again. It is definitely warm, but I can't detect any real undertones. Flooring isn't in yet, so I'm curious to see how the color will change. patty_cakes, you wrote in a previous post above: "As for the color/colors, just a very pleasant, warm tan that has a beautiful candlelight hue in the evening. Good luck. ;o)" I thought of your comment when we saw the house for the first time last night with artificial light...kilim beige does have that beautiful candlelight hue in the evening! I will post pics soon. Thanks again to everyone, I appreciate your input and advice!...See MoreTrim and Ceiling Paint -SW Pure White trim - What white for ceilings?
Comments (27)We closed on our house today wahoooo! I only got to spend about an hour there but looked quickly at the samples for trim/doors/ceilings. I think I've narrowed it down to three possibilities: BM Simply White, SW Extra White and BM Super White. I thought about BM Chantilly Lace too. Basically, looking at the finishings, my first gut is that BM Simply White looks the best. I just worry it may look too yellow once up on everything. At least that's what I read (and you know how reliable the internet is). First question: has anyone had experience with BM Simply White? Does it just read warm or do you see the yellow in it when it's one trim/doors/ceilings? So I may go that direction, or wonder if I should go with a cleaner white but something close. Something still a little warm... As for the runners up, from what I can see SW Extra White and BM Super White are very similar but Extra White maybe looks a little warmer? Maybe because it has more chroma? Is this understanding accurate, Lori A. Sawaya?? And it seems to me that the order of warmth would go SW Extra White, BM Super White, BM Chantilly Lace... is that a correct reading? Again for context - East/West exposures with a lot of shade. Wall colors aren't chosen but would likely be something along the lines of BM Edgecomb Gray, BM Ballet White, BM Chelsea Gray, BM Natural Cream. Daughter's room will be BM Opal. I'll try to take some pics of the finishings tomorrow but would love any thoughts on this. Thanks!...See MoreMichael
12 years agotrinityklm
12 years agoMichael
12 years agoDLM2000-GW
12 years agotrinityklm
12 years agoMichael
12 years agoLori A. Sawaya
12 years agoGliddenPaints
12 years agoaliensweetie
12 years agotrinityklm
12 years agopatty_cakes
12 years agoDave Mills
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agolizmartinez35
8 years agolizmartinez35
7 years agoeastautumn
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agobobjax
7 years ago
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