Terri, I drew this up using the added-up dimensions you gave for both walls -which pretty much agree- instead of the 14' 10" measurement, which is a couple feet longer. If I'm wrong, then these ideas are mute, and I'll redraw it. Let me know. (Adding up the smaller measurements I get 150"-151.5" total room length; that's what I drew.) If this is correct, there won't be enough space to simply extend the counter down for makeup area without creating an odd, ungainly space down next to the shower wall. BUT... there's a nice nook there for making a built-in make-up area on the wall next to the shower. I would use the same counter material (I think you will find that nothing comes close, price-wise, to the Ikea counters, and they are totally worth the 3 hour drive! I know a lot of people who've driven all day for it :))... anyway, I'd use the same counter material, and build it in by setting it on a 9" cabinet on one side, and simply attached to the wall with cleats on the other side. Or, no cabinet, more legroom, but then you will need wall storage for all the makeup and stuff. Maybe a nice slim wall cabinet on one wall would work well and be the cheapest way to do it nicely? Put a big window in between the vanity and makeup desk... lots of natural light. I like the idea of losing the big tall cabinet next to the sink, if it works with your budget. I think the room will feel much airier and spacious without it, to compensate for the fact that you're adding more shower bulk, which will make the room smaller. It also seems to me that the 18" deep space opposite the vanity is sort of wasted now. How about doing open shelving there, with a matching set of pretty boxes/baskets on it to hold some of your bathroom stuff, and folded towels can also go there... imagine how much more open feeling that whole vanity/sink area will feel without the tall cabinet there. You could do some open shelves, and some hooks if you like robe storage there... I would replace the mirror over the sink with a larger one, with nice sconces on either side. In the wall area now taken up by the tall cabinet, you could add a couple more (matching) open shelves with baskets/bins if you need more storage. If you decide to replace your vanity, I would highly recommend getting base cabinets with drawers rather than doors. it is SOOOOO much easier to stow your stuff, like all the bottles and tubes that end up on the counter, if there are drawers to pull open rather than hard-to-access shelves inside regular cabinet doors. If you wanted to explore doing that, I'd recommend simply getting base cabinets (just like kitchen ones, except they are shallower (although it'll be cheaper and easier to use regular kitchen ones if you have the depth for 24" cabs there, I couldn't quite tell from the drawing...) For example, using Ikea kitchen base cabinets, you could do the whole run, from the corner next to the door, to where the vanity ends now, for about $600 including a whole bunch of soft-close drawers, in this style (of course there are lots to choose from!) or $525 in this style of cabinet (I know you don't ike the green color, but the pics are just for the cabinets) Some Ikea bases with drawers actually come in 12" deep sizes, so even if you didn't have space for full 24" deep, you could still do it. By the way, when I was poking around on the Ikea web site, I saw several drawer/cabinet things that are a nice, rustic look like you're after. Very inexpensive, too. You might like some of them. If you are considering re-doing your cabinets, that would be another possible budget-minded way to go :) by using something like this, and a wood top. Might need to add some slightly taller legs (easy to do in similar pine) to get it to the right height. If you do something along these lines, I don't think you need the beadboard on the walls. Especially since you seem not to like "so much white"... although of course if you want to spend a bit more you could do rustic wood siding on the walls. I think you asked about painted wood walls, above. WEre you talking about this: ? I think that's painted V-groove paneling. It comes many ways... some in sheets, primed MDF. Some as individual or double planks, either primed or even rustic knotty pine. It's basically like beadboard, but without the bead, and iinstalled horizontally rather than vertically. If you like this look, you should check into pricing for the "real" 1/2" stuff (not the cheaper, thin MDF panels) which can be installed INSTEAD OF sheetrock. I don't know, but it may be similar pricing, because you wouldn't have to pay for all the expensive labor to finish the sheetrock. Maybe you and your DH could even install it yourselves?

I didn't comment on the shower curtain, because I was a bit confused. By needing an extra long curtain, I didn't know if you meant height or width? I assumed you meant floor to ceiling, but if so, how would a standard liner work, but not a standard curtain? I assumed you were using an L bracket rod mounted at standard height (looks like a standard shower/tub enclosure)? But maybe not?! Are you planning to mount a ceiling rod? Sorry, I'm just not following ,,, Well regardless, here are a few comments: 1) My number one priority would be to properly manage moisture (keep as dry as possible). 2) If at possible, I would first look to using a standard (72x72) curtain (it will be cheaper, you will have more options, and you can more easily change up the look). 3) Start with a good liner mounted at the proper height (not too short and not too long) that doesn't fly around. 4) Whatever I hung in that area, I would want it to be moisture/mildew resistent, provide ventilation/wicking, have rust proof hardware, etc As such, I would first look to a quality shower curtain, which are available in taller lengths. If looking at drapes, I would probably start with indoor/outdoor drapes. Regarding your question on the door, I would probably paint it white/neutral (or faux pine) because I would not want the door to be a focal point, but rather have it blend in. As far as color scheme ,,, on my monitor the tile looks like it has blue undertones, so maybe blue rugs and towels (with a couple of red accent towels), a pattern shower curtain (e.g. a tartan plaid with blue, gray, red, and browns). A red waste basket. Art work that has red, blue, gray, brown, etc... You'll have lots of good options!! Here is a link that might be useful: Trax ceiling shower rods

Yaya - thanks for the link! I do love that, but DH died laughing when I showed him the price tag. I did order a color card so I can see the colors in person for my next project. Lukkiirish - Yes, the two we're debating between are actually grays with a bluish tone. I definitely can't do all blue, but the grays are much nicer. Nadine - Ooh, I can definitely see blue in both of those! Lovely rooms. I think we've decided (meaning DH has the nerve to take a stand on this one design issue - LOL) and are going with the Nimbus Gray. We'll just do the tiny bathroom first and see what we think. Our bedroom is packed with boxes of tile and fixtures for the new bathroom, and I don't really feel like moving all that around just to paint the bedroom first. If we hate it on the bathroom walls, then I may take the gallon back and have it lightened a bit and try that instead. Thank you for all the ideas and suggestions!

long shower curtainI chose to use a shower curtain in my new master bath. I had glass doors in my old master bath, and NO WAY would DH squeegee the doors ever! So I ended up doing the daily cleaning, and after I got sick of it, the doors looked terrible! All spotted with soap and hard water spots! I cleaned them once a week, but the rest of the time, they looked awful! So, in my new shower, I do have a curb that's 4" high. I have a tension rod, but when I get organized, I'll get a solid brass fixed rod. I'll have my handyman put it up. I'm not worried about drilling into the tile because he's super-meticulous and will do a great job. I have a very pretty cotton shower curtain that stays outside the curb, and a polyester fabric liner that stays inside the curb. The liner does get that pink mold on the bottom, so every once in a while I wash it in hot water, and the mold comes out. I have several of these (very cheap, purchased at TJMaxx), so I just put up a clean one and toss the moldy one into the laundry. Water never gets outside the curb, but the liner does get wet. The decorative shower curtain outside the curb never gets wet either. If I didn't have a curb, I would NOT let the shower curtain trail on the floor. Use a bathmat outside the shower to collect water if it seeps out under the shower curtain. If you let the shower curtain trail on the floor, it will stay wet and will get moldy very quickly. I know because my tension rod was hung too low for a while, which meant the shower curtain liner was trailing on the floor. It became disgusting very quickly. If I were you, OP, I'd hang the curtain so it just brushes the floor. That way it will dry out after your shower, but it will prevent water from splashing out onto the dry area of the floor while you are showering.Here's an 8' polyester shower curtain: long shower curtain