There are a couple of 120V options. Following are descriptions of 2 options The first is Powercore from Philips http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewprofilep/ http://www.westsidewholesale.com/20-120v-led-strip-undercabinet-light-fixture-white.html You may find the following discussion useful although it is focused on 24v DC. Here is a link that might be useful: LED UCL DIY

I've mentioned this before in previous threads re undercab lighting, but I bought LED light bars from Lowe's under the Utilitech name. Utilitech is a Lowe's brand but they source their items from various sources - some quite well known. The LED bars, according to the back of the packaging, are distributed by Kichler. They come in 3 different lengths - the 18" and 27" are stock items; a 10" is special order. They don't dim, but they can be linked. Our electrician hardwired them. They're very low in cost - slightly more expensive than the fluorescents and I figure that they're more than adequate and I think they compare to those LED systems that people seem to be spending 1,000s of dollars for.. They are a ray of sunshine for us. This AM, with the heavy rain pounding, I turned on these lights and they just light up the kitchen. I keep them on much of the day, as my kitchen faces due west. They are cool and the cabs just above them are cool as well. The electrical usage is minimal for a large output of light. I think they were an absolute bargain and just about my favorite part of my remodel. Helene

They sell a 10-piece filter assortment with most of the available filters, so you can experiment with what works best. You start with a reflector bulb with a 10 degree beam spread in your choice of color temperatures - 2700K (warm, like incandescent), 3000K (a bit whiter, like halogen), 4000K (cool white fluorescent tubes, but with better color rendering), or 5000K (cool, matches daylight streaming through windows). The filters can widen the beam spread, which starts out as a narrow spotlight, to a wide spot, narrow flood, or wide flood. There are four sizes and shapes of the squared or rectangular beam shapers. And finally three filters that will "warm" the light, so if you ordered the 4000K bulbs, you could change it to 3500K, 3000K, or 2700K. Doing this slightly reduces the efficiency, so I'd get the lowest color temperature bulb you'll ordinarily use (and they're very efficient - each bulb uses only 7-1/2 watts, but is as bright as a 50 watt halogen bulb). You also have a choice between 12V low-voltage or 120V line voltage (or 230V in most non-US countries). Using low voltage helped make the old halogen bulbs whiter, but I don't see any advantage to using 12V low voltage for LEDs unless you are converting an existing halogen MR16 setup. If you're installing new lamps, using 120V line voltage (GU10) will save lots of money by not requiring transformers or expensive low-voltage dimmers, and will be less prone to buzzing. They also have two series of bulbs called Vivid VP3 and Brilliant. You want the Vivid/VP3 which has better color rendering (95 CRI in lighting parlance rather than 80), meaning you won't get dull or inaccurate colors like you do with fluorescent/CFL bulbs or lower-quality LEDs. Filter 10-pack includes: 25ð Beam Spreader 36ð Beam Spreader 60ð Beam Spreader 10ð x 25ð Linear Lens beam shaper 10ð x 36ð Linear Lens beam shaper 25ð x 25ð Flat Top beam shaper 36ð x 36ð Flat Top beam shaper 1/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 1/2 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 3/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 40ð beam spreader with glare-free louvers sold separately More links: Filters 120v line voltage bulb detailed info 12v low-voltage bulb detailed info Info about color rendering Info about non-yellowish white rendering Those last two links aren't technobabble by the way; this company was founded by a guy that won a Nobel Prize for inventing the blue and white LEDs that made LED lighting possible.

Undercabinet LED lighting is a great DIY project... Here's what I did. Works out to about $5/ft. Links below are clickable. Here's a video below - this guy used connectors - I thought soldering was easier and cheaper. Installing undercabinet LED strips I suggest watching other videos also, search youtube on "led under cabinet lighting installation" and you will find several. I installed about 2-1/2" from the face of the cabinet to avoid shadows. You'll need 120V for the power supply. Lots of different type LEDs - brightness, temperature (color). Here's a list of the things I ordered from Amazon: power supply - $9 LED strip lights - $15 for 16 feet 26 gauge wire - $7.60 for a spool to connect the LED strips (solder) Aluminum channel diffusers - $27 for 5 pieces of 1 yard each Dimmers - $10 for 3. Optional parts. I never seem to use mine. Since then I've added LEDs to my RV, a closet or two, and plans for more.