I'd do a search on here for under cab lighting. There are so many threads and so many different kinds of lights, you would be able to read everything in a day or two instead of waiting for replies to your question.

There are a lot of good threads on the lighting forum as well.

But here are a few things to consider - they may dictate your choice:

Do you want dimmable lights? Most fluorescents aren't.
Do you have wiring aleady? Is is low voltage? If so, do you have an accessable spot for transformers?
What are your budget limitations?
Halogen gets hot, Xenon is better than halogen, LED puts off the least heat - what will be in your cabinets above the lighting?

I am in the midst of UCL research hell myself right now.

Another thing to consider is the height of the fixture and if that plays into your decisions. LED typically is the thinest but I think there are xenon options available that are just as thin.

I think I want dimmable xenon bulb-on-track type lighting but haven't really narrowed it down farther then that. DH put the wires in so we could use line voltage fixtures or low voltage fixtures. I like the idea of low voltage and I know there is a product that has the transformer built into the unit itself and they are direct link (not plug in) but beyond that I don't have a lot of information.

Sorry, that might not be terribly helpful, but I thought it couldn't hurt to pass on what little info I do have.

I have the xenon Seagull "Ambience" system where fixtures are clipped onto a wire where desired. I really like it. I have about one 10w bulb per foot. It's a good supplement, and compensates for the black soapstone CT's. It's a nice warm-toned light. Low-voltage, BTW. My only regret is not using it everywhere; I limited it to the dark corner and either side of the main sink.
Casey

I'm having the Seagull "Ambience" system installed tomorrow with a few puck lights over the cooktop. Glad to hear someone is pleased with the system. The bulbs are suppose to last 50,000 hours.

We went through the same decision process and we are very happy with our low voltage Xenon puck lights:

http://www.americanlighting.com/products.cfm?ID=91

Our kitchen remodel was mostly DIY, and I didn't want to open up the walls to install line voltage for undercab lights. By picking low voltage, I could run the wires myself, and they don't have to be in metal conduit.

I installed the transformer inside the valance over the sink, so it is hidden but I can get to it if I ever need to replace it. Each transformer will run up to six lights, which is exactly how many I needed. I also have the whole setup on a dimmer.

The lights do run hot - no doubt about that. I picked the pewter colored ones, but they are so thin that you really don't see them at all.

Best tip I read on installing them was to mount them close to the front of the cabinets - that's where you want the light to fall.

As already mentioned, there have been quite a few threads about UCL on this forum. I will link one below.

LED strips have really come down in price in the last few months. They used to cost over $1000 for an average kitchen. Now Lowe's sells them for a few hundred (not sure of the quality though). Also don't overlook the importance of installing the correct dimmer to prevent buzzing.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread about Undercabinet Lighting

Another American Lighting xenon fan here, although I have the UCL's and not the puck lights like vate Mine are hard-wired so no transformers or extra switchplates in my backsplash.

Here is a link that might be useful: xenon UCL's

You may find the following link helpful

Here is a link that might be useful: led ucl diy

Wow - Thanks everyone for the suggestions and links. Seems like a good mix of Xenon/Halogen and line voltage/low voltage. I guess fluorescent is out! I will ready the links and figure out what I will do.

Thanks again!

Seems like a good mix of Xenon/Halogen and line voltage/low voltage.

JimT_OH - I think you need to re-read this thread (and I see by your post you will be reading the linked threads too). No one is recommending halogen. Xenon UCL's and LED UCL's are both low voltage, though both become line voltage by a transformer either built-in to the strip or installed separately.

I got mine (xenon strip lights) from pegasus lighting, after reading great things from that company. We had no problems with them, and they have a lot of reviews and information that helped us make our decision.

So, the stupid question I have is this. I have Xenon undercabinet lights that have a built-in transformer. In other words, they require 110V input, but have 12V bulbs. Question is, do I need a low voltage dimmer, or will a line voltage dimmer work?

Thanks,

pondering this myself for a new build. The cabinet maker thinks xenon pucks are all that so I went to the store and bought and put up just one. Not impressed. It doesn't throw the light very far, and I think they are hot.
So I went an hour away- to the fancy lighting store-- and looked at the fancy LED- not impressed, the lady couldn't even get 1/2 the display working

- so I'm having the cabinet maker make my moulding a bit longer to hide good old T8's like I have now- but combined with a sensor to snap on when I get there hands free-- bought a sensor-- trying it- and liking it better than the snazzy options I just mentioned.

countryboyok1 said:
"So, the stupid question I have is this. I have Xenon undercabinet lights that have a built-in transformer. In other words, they require 110V input, but have 12V bulbs. Question is, do I need a low voltage dimmer, or will a line voltage dimmer work?"

You need a line voltage dimmer, just a standard one that you can buy at Home Depot.

The dimmer switch goes between your house voltage and your transformer. For example, in my case, I have house line voltage that runs to a Lutron dimmer switch next to the sink. From there, a line voltage cable goes to the transformer. The transformer then had six sets of cables (low voltage) that go from the transformer to the individual lights. What you are "dimming" is the A/C line voltage that enters the transformer.

Jim - I was making this decision a month ago, and after reading sajimata's post in a similar thread, went with GE florescent undercabinet lighting from Home Depot. We did three 18" bars and hardwired them. It was inexpensive, and we really love them. I was hesitant - I had ceiling florescents and hated them! But I am so happy with these. Would it buzz? Be strobe-like? Nope - Love 'em.

Hi Jim,

This article I linked below might help you out. Deciding what kind of fixture you want is definitely a tougher decision than you would think! If you break it down into features (First decide on a light source; Next decide between puck and linear, etc.) it can help you narrow it down.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Choose Under Cabinet Lights

I've mentioned this before in previous threads re undercab lighting, but I bought LED light bars from Lowe's under the Utilitech name. Utilitech is a Lowe's brand but they source their items from various sources - some quite well known. The LED bars, according to the back of the packaging, are distributed by Kichler. They come in 3 different lengths - the 18" and 27" are stock items; a 10" is special order. They don't dim, but they can be linked. Our electrician hardwired them. They're very low in cost - slightly more expensive than the fluorescents and I figure that they're more than adequate and I think they compare to those LED systems that people seem to be spending 1,000s of dollars for..

They are a ray of sunshine for us. This AM, with the heavy rain pounding, I turned on these lights and they just light up the kitchen. I keep them on much of the day, as my kitchen faces due west. They are cool and the cabs just above them are cool as well. The electrical usage is minimal for a large output of light. I think they were an absolute bargain and just about my favorite part of my remodel.

Helene