Plugmold comes in something like 3' and 6' lengths (maybe 4' and 8', I can't remember). It can be spliced or cut. (I had to make my electrician come back to get the Plugmold to go all the way to the end of the cabinet; he stopped about 2 feet, because that was within code, but I wanted an outlet all the way at the VERY end. So, on that long cabinet run, you'll need to discuss w/ your electrician exactly how far you want the Plugmold to extend; he may not automatically run it all the way from one end of the wall to the other. And, bcs you'll be cutting and/or splicing, you should discuss where the last outlet falls, or where the interim outlets fall, bcs he may be able to influence that by where he cuts or splices the raceway. Here's the thing: The wires cannot be exposed, and they probably shouldn't be in flex cable, either. So you need some sort of way to splice the wires from the wall into the wires that comes inside the raceway. That's what the sort of Go here, and click on "more info" In , see the little box at the end of the Plugmold? It's a bit higher than the outlet strip. That's what I have; conduit comes out of the wall and bolts to the side of that box. (this is angle-mounted Plugmold. I found the link on Google Images, but it's from GardenWeb) (I do not think I would want angle-mounted Plugmold; I think it would direct the wires out into the middle of my workspace; I like the wires to fall flush w/ the wall) Here's a pic of some ; there are wire nuts here, but I know that the Wiremold folks have specialized clips to join wires inside the raceway. This person , but I don't know where her junction box is. The thing is, all splices must be accessible after-the-fact. (this pic is also from a forum member)

If I understand this right, you will only be putting one or two outlets in each run? One wall is 47" & I want one wall plug and one under cabinet plug. 2nd wall is 45 ½" & I want both plugs under cabinet. 3rd wall is 36 ½ "with both plugs under cabinet. So why not just put outlets in? And the price of plugmold might make you rethink this option. I scratched the plugmold and went with outlets every 2 1/2 to 3 feet. I put mine up high under the upper cabs. You don't see them standing up but you do sitting down. I do have to bend over to plug things in. don't like that but it was a choice. Since this is DIY the number of outlets will only be the cost of materials. A roll of wire is about a hundred bucks but you'll probably have that anyway and outlets, boxes, covers come to less than $5 a piece if you don't get anything fancy. Price plugmold per outlet.

In our last house we had IKEA lights (link below). They are not normally hardwired, but they do daisy-chain into each other so you just need one outlet. We had our electrician install an outlet in the microwave cabinet just above one of the lights; then we simply drilled a hole in the bottom back of the cab and ran the cord up to the outlet. You could not see it. basically the same idea as sophie_blue plugging into behind the fridge. In this house we are retrofitting the same type of IKEA lights to be hardwired. The cord comes out of the wall just below the upper cabinet. Actually, I think it would be cheaper for the electrician to do the outlet... that way he just installs the outlet and leaves, and you install the lights and plug them in. If you do hardwired, he has to install the lights and everything. If you decide to do this, and want to cut the smallest hole possible in your cabinet bottom, just cut off the plug that comes on the lights, drill a very small hole just big enough for the cord, thread it through, and use a "replacement plug" from the hardware store on the end. Or, make the hole big enough for the light-end receptacle to fit through (which is about 1/3 the size of a plug). We chose IKEA lights for the new kitchen because we were so pleased with them in the last house, and when compared the other brands we looked at in lighting stores, the quality-to-cost ratio was favorable. Plus they come in a stainless finish or white and I liked the stainless... Grudtal light: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10119334

Stacked cabinets are exactly that--a small cabinet stacked on top of the bottom cabinet. The top cab is about 1/3 the height of the wall cabinets. Here's a photo of windowed cabinets, though these look like separate doors on one cabinet box. It still illustrates how silly the small windows look, like little peep holes, and the different sizes. Why draw the eye there? Why go to the expense of lighting each one of those cabs when there's nothing to see? Or one piece of white pottery per window, as is usually the default display item. So I think stacked cabs are the way to go if you want to add glass and shorten the look of tall doors. But it'd be good to post the dimensions of your wall cabs to see what's best. There are KDs here, some of them quite blunt, who can tell you how to balance your wall cabs. And the real pitbulls are in Appliances from what I've heard. We're more like Golden Retrievers. ;) [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/new-construction-in-morgan-creek-traditional-kitchen-vancouver-phvw-vp~1745886) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Chilliwack Kitchen & Bath Designers Pinnacle Custom Cabinet Design