"Old work" or "remodel boxes" come in different flavors from various vendors. Some are a pretty much full size devcie box with exanding screw 'wings' to anchor them (together with the top and bottom plaster wings). Other old work boxes have a clipped upper and lower rear corners and internal box clamps. The clipped corners allow clearance for the cables when the box is pushed back into the wall. There are probably some other hanging around, but those are the two I see most commonly. Using "Madison", "Hold-It Box Supports", etc with a regular device box works well also if you know how to get the cables into the box after pushing it in the wall (see the post above). The problem with simply replacing the loose boxes is getting the old one out. You need to cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. A sawzall with a longer blade can usually be worked in beside the box to either cut it free of a stud strap, or cut the fasteners holding it to the stud. It does run the risk of damaging the drywall, and even nicking cables that may be tight to the stud with staples near the box. It is often worth the effort in plaster walls since repairs are more difficult then drywall (AC cable is also more resistant to minor knocks than NM if the blade touches the cable). To simply tighten up a box that is pulling out of the wall the 'Madison' type clamps work very well. You need to be sure to bend them so they are snug against the inside wall of the box to prevent contact with the receptacle screws, but you can get rear wire receptacles (Cooper) that have covers over the screws.

If it's metal open one of the knockouts at the top of the lower box and slide a plastic Romex connector (with the leading end pointing up) 5 feet down a coil of wire. Attach the cut end of the Romex to a short piece of snake and thread the snake and Romex from the inside of the lower box to the wall opening above which you have properly located and neatly cut to accept your new box. Pull the snake until the connector stops at the top of the lower box, then push the conector up until it snaps in place. If the box is not metal then the best way to enter the lower box is from the outside [(send the snake up through one of the slotted one way openings, attach the wire from the new hole and pull 1 foot of wire down into the existing box). Don't use a connector] Arlington makes some nice boxes for this application. Here is a link that might be useful: wall mount TV box

Hi Joanne, what a great find! My only advice is about the lead. You can determine in 3 minutes if that has lead or not with a cheap test from the hardware store (and I urge you not to guess if there are kids living in the house or visiting!). You may be pleasantly surprised and find that it isn't lead paint. Lead paint was more expensive and so was not always used. Some houses have lead paint throughout, but I have had 3 houses built in the 30s or before that had no lead paint on walls (although they had plenty on the exterior, window trim, etc.). If you do find out that it isn't lead paint, it will increase your options -- you could carefully remove the beadboard and replace it after adding support, for example. On the other hand, if it is lead paint, then you can put down plastic, wet sand, etc. You could even strip the paint with steam if you are patient.

leela4 and Jan Moyer - Leela4 thank you for your comment and suggestion. We renovated and expanded a small dark kitchen - and the only way to do it in this house (without pretty much gutting my entire first floor to move rooms around) was to make it open concept. We had a kitchen designer. We looked at a model on paper etc etc. The kitchen itself is really beautiful. The space it opened up to is my concern. It was hard to envision how it would look even with the plans and 3D renderings etc. Once the cabinets and breakfast bar went in I realized the separation to the family room wasn’t as much as I envisioned it would. Too late to change at that point. Then I thought I would close off the smaller room next to the kitchen dining area ... but realized last week it would make the dining area seem tight. We had the best of intentions but it didn’t turn out 100 pct as I had hoped. Again, don’t see how we could have done anything differently with the space we had. I have no choice but to work with what I have and will bring in some designers to consult and ultimately pick one to help me tie the spaces together as best I can. Looking back maybe having a designer on board in addition to the kitchen designer up front would have made sense ... but what’s done is done. I don’t appreciate anyone pointing out the negatives of an open kitchen. That doesn’t help. Aren’t comments on Houzz supposed to be helpful when someone is looking for advice? If you can’t help, don’t comment is my feeling.