Jeremy, Hopefully, the guys who installed the sprinkler system for you, put in a quick and easy to access, method to turn off the main to the system, and then to drain out the water that's stored between there and the sprinkler valves, and in the backflow device. Assuming that's true, then you should be good to turn it on FOR A FEW HOURS ONLY, any time now. BUT... You MUST drain the water back out of the backflow valve etc. immediately after you finish watering. If you don't do it right after the sprinklers finish, every time, then you will forget about it, and a couple days later you will wake up in the morning to the sound of running water. Like me, you will wonder who woke up early enough to already be in the shower. Then later when you wake again, you'll realize the water is still running. Then you'll lay there and wonder...just where is that water running? Sooner or later you'll discover you have a new 10 foot fountain in your front yard. And it has a great big pool underneath it. If you're particularly unlucky, the back flow device is right near the basement window well, and your basement is flooding. Then, once you get the water turned off, you'll find out those 2 or 3 cute little plastic parts in that backflow device cost about 100 bucks if you buy and install them yourself, or I imagine twice that if you have someone else install them. Actually, it was my buddy whose basement flooded, and had the fountain. My backflow is pretty far from the house, and both times I messed up and forgot to drain it, it didn't actually do a fountain it just leaked out enough water to make the yard really muddy for a few days. Depending on weather and snow fall, I usually turn mine on, and water, and then drain it again several times each spring. I never turn it on and leave it on until Mother's Day, and even then, I keep a sharp eye on the weather, and I go cover up the back flow device with some thick blankets if we get a frost warning. Denver last frost is about the same as Fort Collins, so Mothers Day is probably a sensible date for you to go by also. Bruce

The doors/windows in the inspiration pic are a custom set of 4 patio doors mulled together with only the 2 inner ones operating all from the same manufacturer--likely a Pella, Jeld-Wen, Andersen or Marvin. We had something similar specced at one time and the cost was $3-4K with grids between the glass if I remember correctly. The cost skyrockets from there if you want simulated or true divided lites/grids. It is not easy to duplicate the look in the inspiration pic when you're using components from different manufacturers and mixing & matching windows and doors to get the effect you want. What you have appears to be the standard box store style patio door set with a transom mulled above flanked by 2 double hung windows. The problem with these style doors is that they will not look flush like the windows as the glass is held in by a chunky plastic frame that screws in place on the inside and outside of the door. The window will never have that look. You can get closer to the look in your pic by using flush glazed patio doors which more closely resemble the window design for uniformity. Changing the side windows to non-operational windows will also help achieve a cohesive look with the glass in the doors. I've linked to another thread that talks about flush glazed doors & mixing windows and doors below. If you need to use the pics in the thread to explain anything to the builder, you are more than welcome to do so. No matter which way you go, make sure the glass sizes match up in the transoms across the entire wall and not just the height of the overall transom. (you'll see in the link what I mean). Hope this helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Flush Glaszed Patio Door Discussion w/ Pics

I think I found out what has been causing the problems with my Bosch Benchmark dual fuel range Model # HDIP056U/06. Sometimes when the oven door is opened to either check on the food or remove the food, there is a considerable amount of steam rising out of the oven. This steam hits the front display panel and condenses on the surface of the display. For some UNKNOWN reason this stops the current mode the oven is in and goes to a default mode requiring an input on the panel. The display blinks for 10 seconds waiting for an input temperature and a "PRESS ENTER" input. While the panel has the condensed steam on the surface, the panel will not accept any inputs. After 10 seconds with no input on the screen it times out and shuts the oven off. Once the condensation on the panel evaporates, the panel works like it should and inputs are accepted. Video made and uploaded to You Tube 1/8/24: https://youtu.be/7BMtU5ZEv9Q I've had 4 service calls and replaced 3 parts, and it has the same problem it has had since new in July 2023.

We are beyond disappointed in our architect. It has been a very frustrating process! I feel like we are at the point of no return though. We will be speaking with him tomorrow and we make a final decision then. To answer a couple of questions: the two staircases are bc the one in the playroom leads to an attic bedroom and the one in the mud room is going to a home office above the garage - it was supposed to be moved to the garage but wasn’t (more frustration). The Murphy door will likely be removed. I so badly wanted it to work out and thought it’d be a really cool feature but it’s making things more complicated. Again, the centering of the door was my idea to help the elevation work a little better. I would love for him to play around with the porch area/foyer to “make it work” but that’s just not who is is. Had I known this, we never would have hired him. Luckily I have a friend who has been very helpful (done most of the design work) but we’re both stumped here. Thank you everyone for the replies! If we end up changing dramatically I’ll post an update.