Good info here. I have been shopping Pella, Marvin, JenWeld, LLuminare and Softlite. The quotes are all over the place- or not coming in at all ?? This is what I need: new construction 46 windows, many "fixed" /picture windows, rest are casement, slider, horizontal slider, awning. Looking for contemporary/ modern look with black or dark aluminum exterior and black interior aluminum clad - frameless, mounted with a drywall wrap look and adding some ornamental sills later in specific rooms. Appreciate any advice for vendors in GEORGIA. ( house is in 30522 zipcode)

I have decided to go the full frame replacement. I have been looking at various types of sill pan flashing. One product that I like (at least the idea behind it) is the Protectowrap Sill Pan Drainage System. It is installed over flexible membrame flashing and it is layer of sloped foam covered in a water wicking material designed to draw any moisture into the flashing and away from the interior of the structure or so it seems. Most methods I have read about use either a metal sill pan, liquid flashing or flexible membrane. The Sill Pan Drainage System seems like an added bit of security assuming your initial flashing and window sealing is done properly. My question is: Is it worth it? I got a quote for 100' (of which I will likely need about 50') for just shy of $250. Most flexible membrane flashing and liquid flashing is about $40-60 for 50-75' depending on width. Any thoughts or perhaps other practical ideas for making the best possible water tight/ optimal draining sill pan? I'm not trying to be cheap, just practical. This product must be special ordered whereas most of the other protecto wrap products can be bought off the shelf leading me to believe that the Sill Pan Drainage System is not commonly used in my area ( Austin TX) either because it is not needed or due to cost or better alternatives .

WoW, If that is true you assume the seals in your hypothetical window are still "perfect" at 30 years. Very questionable. Further, U value is mainly important in northern climates while SHGC is much more important in southern climates. Modern films can also often be applied to single pane windows to bring many performance factors (especially SHGC) very close to double pane (or better) for a fraction of the cost. -"Regularly refurbished"? In my experience, good putty on a painted wood single pane window will last ~50 years. When the time comes, a quality contractor can perform the service fairly quickly. Last I checked about $200 a window, maybe less. Track and lock maintenance apply to new and old windows. What do you charge to install a high quality name brand double hung double pane? -I've had no trouble with storm windows. They have all been easy to remove, install, and clean. Very durable. Never had an issue with condensation damage to the wood either. -Most of your "drawbacks" are non or very minor issues considering the typical cost savings of maintaining existing single panes. Film and/or storm windows can bring single pane energy efficiency very close to new double panes. Wood Single pane: $200 every 50 years for putty plus the cost to paint and maintain single pane locks and tracks (optional- plus perhaps $70 per window every 20 years for film). Double pane: perhaps $600-$800 every 30 years for new quality double panes installed. It's clear that it's usually cheaper to maintain existing quality single pane windows, even though energy performance may not be quite as good. Consider complete lifecycle cost. WoW, sure I'm happy to provide data. I'm waiting for yours. Respectfully your post sounds just like a double pane replacement marketing pitch. Lots of talk but little to nothing to support it. A recent study and some data on clear single pane, double pane, and film performance. https://cdn.llumar.com/drupal/na_arch_solar_specs_l2278.pdf https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/9/5/731/htm Not sure about the condition, size, access, or location of your friend's casement windows. Ex- If the casements open into a sunroom and still work well, why even consider replacing them (except for aesthetic reasons)?

I would expand on what Anglophilia says just a little. Think about what style of house you're building. Is it a style that has traditionally had black windows? Think about your decor. Are you willing to commit to incorporating black in other finishes and furnishings so that the windows don't look out of place? Have you thought about how you'll deal with window coverings, which can be more difficult with dark windows? We're using black fiberglass windows, and we went through this same process. In our case, we're building a PNW modern style house, so black or bronze windows are appropriate to the style. We chose black countertops and will repeat the black in our interior door hardware, light fixtures, and various furnishings. And we're doing very simple modern roller shades. So for us, black works. If any of these things weren't true, we wouldn't have done it.