I too have the 8.5 by 16 rion. I assembled my greenhouse last winter in the heart of a new england winter. One thing I found aout about the rion's assemble is Patients. I used a crazy amout of soapy lube to install all the weather stripping. The hardest part was lifting the roof because it was 16 feet long and you have to line up all the wall section. I must admit that this greenhouse was well worth the price tag. I chose not to use rion's basekit. Instead, I excavated 2 feet down installed filter fabric and crushed stone and installed 2 courses of 4x6 pt timbers. The floor is crushed stone covered in insulating panels covered in sand covered by paving stones all pitched to the center with a 5 foot deep drain into sand. I salved all the rions air leaks with expanding foam insulation, fixed leaky vent windows with a bead of special caulking that will stick to PVC and polycarb. I ma proud of my rion. I dont have the guts to cut though the wall glazing to install a southern burner heater!

Bronze windows originated with anodized aluminum storefronts that replaced painted steel. Later it was difficult to prevent black PVC and fiberglass from fading. Apparently that is no longer the case. If your goal is to emulate steel sash I would avoid an imitative color like dark bronze. Additionally I would want a stronger contrast with gray even red cedar left to gray. I grew up in St Louis were everything was brown even the baseball team so I might have an aversion to it. Are you from down under? This post was edited by Renovator8 on Sun, Jul 27, 14 at 9:40

It sounds great in theory, but probably wouldn't work very well, especially in some type of automatic system. Several problems come to mind. First of all is the material, itself. Calcium Chloride is a fine dessicant. Removes a lot of water, but in doing so, turns into a slurry. It would have to be heated quite heavily to be returned to a usable state. Silica Gel (those annoying little packets in packages of medicines) aDsorbs moisture, but needs a large surface area, as opposed to depth, to be effective. Since this 'unit' would have to be installed inside, in a domestic system, it would have to be installed upstream of the air handler; not a very good source of heat. The discharge air would already have its dew point lowered, so not much benefit in having it there. Also, whereas an a/c depends on heat exchange to remove humidity, a dessicant depends on prolonged contact to remove water. The velocity of airflow in a typical system would preclude that. There is also the potential for static pressure issues. Just my opinion. Do you have a link to your information? V

I agree with hendricus. Caulk the gaps. if the unevennes goes the other way you can cut trim into the drywall. Either of these work for up to 1/4 in, Beyond that it gets noticeable unles it's on top where you don't see it. Planing the studs will be a lot of redo work. Making the extension jambs vary with the wall profile has the risk of affecting the trip joints (assuming they are mitered). The angle (in the bevel direction - across the trim the thin way) might not work. If your style has butt joints (not mitered) then these option might work.