Gosh...hope someone gives you some good advice there.

I did a countertop for a customer of mine. I'm a flooring contractor whose job installing the floor wound up to be a kitchen rehab (long story). The countertop was not easy, but I researched installation intructions on the internet and went ahead and did the thing. I think I found instructions at the Formica site.

One thing I did that is different from what you are doing is I used plywood with one 2" strip around all edges and at locations where the cabinet uprights would be. I could certainly have used particle board, but for some reason chose not to do that.

Your two layer thick particle board countertop must be unbelievably heavy.

I don't know how to advise you here. I hope some experienced countertop fabricator will decide to give you some pointers at this point...not to put too fine a point on it (pun intended).

BTW, I used an offset laminate trimmer to do the flush cuts on the laminate edges. I just didn't think I could keep my regular router flat enough with the laminate surface to get a good trim.

Best of luck to you.

If your long straightedge is bowing from the pressure of the router, you could support it in the middle by butting a two-foot-long scrap of particleboard (or almost anything, really) against the back of the straightedge and clamping it to the far side of the counter. That said, as long as the bow in the front edge is a smooth, even contour without abrupt jogs, it shouldn't cause any problem with the laminate. It might be better aesthetically if it were straight, but the laminate doesn't care if it's got a gentle curve in it.

It's hard to imagine the counters are sagging on the sawhorses so much that they'll be permanently distorted by gluing laminate on them in that position. However, you'll need them fairly well supported for the glue up so you can lean some of your weight on the roller you use to press the glued surfaces together. For that reason alone it's worth supporting them well. You don't need a lot of sawhorses; I'd just put a couple of 2x4s on edge, on top of the sawhorses to provide even support along the whole length. You'll need to stabilize those 2x4s a bit, probably by nailing or screwing a couple of cross pieces between them, so they don't fall over flat at some inopportune moment.

What size router do you have? There's nothing wrong with holding the router sideways except that you don't have practice doing it, and it could be difficult if you have a large, heavy router. The ones made for laminate trimming are small and light and can be held at odd angles with one hand. If you're stuck with a bigger, general-purpose router then it may be worth getting some help to set the pieces on edge as you described. You don't need a giant vise; just clamp it to some stable vertical object like a cabinet frame or the side of a sawhorse. When the clamp gets in the way, stop routing and repostition as necessary. Whichever way you go, if you've never done it before and you can't afford to goof, PRACTICE on some scrap!

You probably donÂt have enough of sag to create any kind of permanent distortion when you apply the laminate to the substrate. What might be a problem is being able to apply enough for to properly adhere the laminate to the substrate. As John suggested, go to the lumberyard and find six of the straightest 2x4Âs they have. Use those across your sawhorses to support the countertop. You may need to add blocking or some other means of support to keep them from falling over.

As for your edge trimming problems, first off is the straight edge straight? Again, as John suggested add some means to support the middle and prevent deflection.

Professionals use whatÂs called a trim router. Basically itÂs a small router where control and maneuverability are more important than horsepower. You CAN use a larger router on its side but it does take some skill and patience.

Good luck

Mike

Is there any way you can manhandle this thing onto a table saw? If not, it sounds like it's not worth worrying about the slight dip in the edge. You can probably get away with laminating the top without it being perfectly flat, but that will make for an interesting edge... better to be perfectly flat! You don't need to have the edge up to laminate it, just coat both surfaces, let them dry a while, and get a spare set of hands to help align it. Your fingers will provide enough of an edge guide, but make sure you know how much excess you have to spare on either end. The edges are easier than the top, in my opinion. After you rout the excess, belt sand the entire top before laminating the top. Good luck.

Thank you for your responses- this is something I would NEVER attempt w/o the help from all you helpful internet people! I mean I can read how-tobooks but they have a way of always leaving out necessary information....

Re: router bits, is there any reason to spend $24 for a really good laminate trim bit vs. $9 for a cheaper one? Does it make any difference in smoothness or accuracy of cut?

Do you find any difference in working with the different brands of laminate (pionite, formica & wilson art) , are any better than the others? I would just be getting the most economical type of one of those brands.

Bob, I havent heard of sanding the particle board-- I suppose for better adhesion? Could I just use an orbital hand sander?

I would go for the cheaper router bit, so long as it is carbide with a ball bearing guide. In many cases router bit prices seem to have more to do with where you're buying than what you're getting. Lee Valley's, for example, are excellent quality for a fraction of the price of the local big box. No bit is going to be perfect, so plan on doing a little dressing with a file afterwards.

Can't comment on laminate brands as my experience isn't broad enough, but I doubt there will be much difference in their most basic offerings.

I've never heard of sanding the particle board either, and if you've never used a belt sander it would be easy to wreck your substrate very quickly. I'd skip that step.

The only reason to sand is to insure you have a perfectly smooth surface. Any slight imperfection will telegraph through the laminate in time. I would just use my orbital, since that is all I have, but a belt sander is quicker.

Bob, the surface is already VERY smooth--its a higher grade of particle board than I usually see-- but I think I'll go over it inch by inch just to make sure.

Mike K.- could you talk more about "What might be a problem is being able to apply enough for to properly adhere the laminate to the substrate. " This sounds like you really need to apply a HUGE amt. of force leaning into it with your whole body--? Wow. I was just thinking you had to go over it with some presure but not a huge amount-- like with a rolling pin on pie dough?

Not sure anyone mentioned this but the easy way to position the top after glue is applied is to use wood dowels to hold the laminate up from contact with the particle board. Place the dowels about 8' or so apart along the entire surface of the top. When top is in place remove the middle dowel and start pressing on the laminate toward the outside edges and ends, then remove the next dowel, the next, etc, etc. until the entire piece is attached. If you have a roller that is good, however you can use your fist or the heal of your hand as well. This can make it easy for one person. I always do the edges first, then the top. I give the sides of the particle board two coats of contact cement due to the rougher surface. I use a skillsaw and a straight edge for preparing the top and very little sanding required in my opinion. I usually cut 2" TO 3" strips of particle board and glue and nail them around the bottom edge of the top. In addition I place one strip at each inner cabinet edge for support. Reason, less weight than two full pieces. Cross pieces ad strength and support as they sit on the cabinet edge and the outside edge is 1 1/2" for edge surface. I use a laminate router to trim the excess and finish by using a file at about a 45 degree angle to remove the knife like edge after the router has cut it. Apply silicone to the cabinet edges and set the top in place. Allow to dry over night and enjoy your handywork. Just some on my thoughts. Good luck