Best circular saw blade for cutting off door bottoms?
11 years ago
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- 11 years ago
- 11 years ago
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Best blade for cutting aluminum?
Comments (3)My experience with aluminum is that you need to clamp the work firmly especially with a carbide tipped blade. The "stickiness" of the material makes the saw catch and if your not careful, fire aluminum shrapnel into your face. The stick wax helps a lot, you also have to make sure your blade is sharp. Most aluminum contractors have several spare blades in case one gets dull. I buy my carbide tipped aluminum cutting blades from B.C. Saw in Mississauga, Ontario. Theres bound to be specialty saw blade companys close to you who service the contractor and industrial market. B.C. Saw sells the blades and will sharpen them as well. My 8" aluminum cutting blade for my miter box cost me about $90.00. I'm sure you could find a smaller blade. Smaller blades are often used in automatic miter box saws used by window manufacturers. CR Laurence is huge California based window shop supply house, you might call them and see who sells their saw blades to the public locally. Just Google their name....See MoreReciprocating saw blade choices
Comments (9)The issue wot cutting metal is having enough blade teeth in contact with the material being cut to avoid breaking off the teeth. The lower limit is three teeth in contact with the metal being cut, so choose a high enough tooth count blade to achieve this. Slow speed and solid blade contact are also needed. Starting the cut is a little harder in metal. The contact area can be small resulting in the blade slipping on the material and losing teeth until a decent kerf is established. Using a triangular file to start the kerf works well. A few quick strokes with the file and the saw blade can settle in and get to work. A circular saw would not work well for this job. You need to be able to get close to the tree without tearing it up. This job should not need a carbide grit blade. Just buy a 5 or 10 pack of blades and go to town. The blades need to be long enough to cut close to the tree without the saw shoe and body hitting it and damaging the bark. If you start with a file kerf a longer blade length is not nearly as important and can make the job easier....See MoreWood blade used on Metal Chop Saw?
Comments (5)My advice is to stop immediately. That cloud of smoke is the best clue that your idea is not going to work. The blade might be loose, or mounted crooked, or wobbling----makes little difference---it is DANGEROUS!!!!!! Get the correct equipment---a circular saw is much better, and you can use a speed square for a guide to get straight cuts....See Moretalk to me about 5-1/2" circular saw blades
Comments (10)So for those two woods (pine, and 3/4"ply), where you want a smooth cut, how many teeth would be good? I live in an apartment and have to do my lumber work either in the passageway, the basement, or out at my father-in-law's in his driveway, and so a panel or table saw is out of the question for me, much as I would like one. Especially given that I don't have that much elbow room, it's likely I won't do that much ripping on my own, since I tend to buy my lumber at a place with the World's Greatest Panel Saw. (Seriously, an entire room--swoon!) It's more likely that I'd buy the wood and have it ripped, and then crosscut at home. The last time I planned to do that, the panel-saw guy talked me into having him cut the whole project--but I do occasionally need to recut some part that got mismeasured, or I want to do projects with the scraps. (that's the first thing I hope to tackle--a rack to hold the multiple game consoles in a single footprint) So even w/ the short battery life, this saw is probably just enough for what I will actually do. And the truth is that I'd probably tackle a project in several bursts anyway. My projects will also probably be relatively small--that console rack would be 14 to 18 cuts that are 11" long. Or I'd want to cut a small piece of lumber to make a small shelf to mount deep inside the under-sink cabinet--so 2 to 4 cuts of 4" to 6" in length, depending. That sort of small stuff. (I may also splurge on an extra battery or two, which would extend the work time. Since I plan my projects well in advance, I can be sure I'm all charged up.) I *always* cut with a clamped-on guide. I used C-clamps and a piece of metal when I cut shelves w/ my jigsaw. My dad and I ripped plywood using a piece of molding and some clamps, and it was fine. But for Xmas, I bought him the Kreg Rip-Cut (saw a video of someone ripping plywood with a saw very similar to mine, and it looked like it worked well). I thought that jig would make it easier to rip several boards the same width. Next time I go visit him, I'll have to ask to use it, and make my niece some shelves, whether she wants 'em or not. Recently I've been using the locking clamp that came w/ my Kreg pocket-hole jig, and it's even faster that using the C-clamps, and I still have that metal, plus some molding. I also have a Kreg cross-cut guide. I only used it once (w/ my jigsaw), but it worked fine....See MoreRelated Professionals
Roanoke Cabinets & Cabinetry · Escondido Carpenters · Piedmont Carpenters · North Richland Hills Carpenters · Hialeah Gardens Flooring Contractors · Louisville Flooring Contractors · Ocoee Flooring Contractors · Sun City Flooring Contractors · Swampscott Flooring Contractors · White Bear Lake Flooring Contractors · North Bergen Furniture & Accessories · Fair Lawn Furniture & Accessories · Hawthorne Furniture & Accessories · Murray Furniture & Accessories · Robbinsdale Furniture & Accessories- 11 years ago
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