I have the same issue... so, it is the laptop, charger, or electricity at home? my laptop is almost new it has around 1 year or so, and I noticed that in the multiple plugger on my bed room that was not working, I turned off and on the multiple plugger and worked the charger again. I also turned off and on the general power at home and all the pluggers that were not working start working again, but after 2 days are no longer working again, I turned off and on the general power again and this time didn't work the pluggers... So, now I'm working on the dining room that it is working the plugger (for now)... but as the others post, some plugs don't work for my laptop. I just tested the same that other previous post and when I charge my cellphone in the other plug of the double plugger, the charger works.... So, I guess I need to call the electrician.

Some years ago I read an intriguing "puzzler." An electrician was called in to diagnose an intermittent problem with a cellar light. The light had worked fine for years, but recently it had started to act up. It still worked in the winter, but in the summer, it would flicker or not light at all. The house was an old one, with original knob and tube wiring in the cellar. It seems that the original electrician had neglected to solder a connection. Over the years, the copper had oxidized. In winter the cellar was several degrees colder, and the wires contracted a bit, pulling the twisted joint tight enough to pass current. In summer the warmer conditions allowed the copper wire to expand and loosen just enough for contact to be lost, thanks to the oxidation on the copper. My guess is that your situation is similar. Maybe the person who wired your kitchen forgot to tighten a terminal screw somewhere, such as on one of the receptacles. Don't let this go - a loose connection can cause a fire.

"But I do have in my own house some circuits with multiple GCFI receptacles on that one circuit. In those instances, the GFCI is not connected for feed-thru, but protects only the receptacles in that particular unit, the others are connected the same way. Tripping of one unit affects no others." This type if installation has some real advantages. When something does trip the GFCI it is the one you just plugged into, and it is right there. No hunting for the GFCI. In my workshop I have a number of quad outlets each on a separate 20 A circuit. Each quad is a GFCI and a regular receptacle. The regular receptacle is on the load side of the GFCI right beside it. GFCI devices originally were breakers only, then receptacle. They were so expensive initially (around $35 each) that the first few code revisions allowed a single GFCI proptected circuit to cover bathroom receptacles, outside receptacles, and even unfinished basement receptacles. The dedicated 20 A bathroom circuits came latter. In many cases installations that complied with code initially remain grandfathered. Some exceptions have been made for bathroom GFCI devices and kitchen counter spaces in many local codes. The use of GFCI devices in these spaces is really worth the protection. One of the biggest problems with the HI community is a lack of knowledge about plumbing and electrical codes changes and when they occurred. Even the RE column in the Washington Post (writer recently died) was uninformed about GFCI circuits and their operation. An HI squawked an older house kitchen counter outlet for not having a ground. The seller had GFCIs installed in a 2 wire circuit with the required stickers. The purchaser complained the job was 'not to code' since no ground was present. The advice columnist agreed. It is fully code compliant to install GFCI receptacles on 2 wire circuits.

Not enough information. For the bathrooms I suspect you have caused a ground fault. Did you try to reset the GFCI?