Hmmm, I wonder where I can get the same battery as wally world at higher price! By that I mean I avoid wall due to the fact they treat both the suppliers and workers like dirt. I am willing to pay a bit more if it means the workers are not getting the shaft. So, seriously, is there anywhere I can get the same battery even if the price is a bit more? Rolf PS - I don't dislike wally world because the are big. But the fact that they make their workers clock out and then continue working (documented at multiple stores throughout the US) is reason enough to pass on them. I used to dislike unions, but I have changed and now see them as an important check on greedy corporate management.

***"Also when I turn the flywheel slow counterclockwise it makes a sound like "phphphphssss" almost like a soda bottle when it is opened slowly. Sounds like something is draining."** Is this happening when the spark plugs are removed from the engine?? If yes....is the "phphphphssss" coming from the fuel pump??? ............................................. To define "UP" & "DOWN" as relating to piston movement, learn this: When a piston is moving TOWARD the cylinder head, the direction of movement is referred to as UPWARD, or UP. When the piston is moving AWAY FROM the cylinder head, it is referred to as DOWNWARD or DOWN. This applies to all reciprocating engines regardless of the engine configuration. Just remember that the terms are for one specific cylinder at a time, no matter the total number of cylinders the engine has, or which direction they may be pointing (clock position). ...................................................... With both cylinder heads removed, turn the flywheel while watching either of the pistons. As you turn the flywheel, is this piston moving in its cylinder (meaning: traveling upward or downward). Turn the flywheel until it reaches the point of "abrupt stop". Now, watch the same piston while you turn the flywheel in the opposite direction. Does this piston move in the opposite direction JUST AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE OPPOSITE WAY? or does it seem that the flywheel rotates a few degrees before the piston begins to move in the cylinder? Continue turning the flywheel until it abruptly stops again. Now, watch the same piston as you turn the flywheel again in the direction you first turned it. Does the piston begin to move in the opposite direction immediately? or does the flywheel seem to rotate a few degrees before the piston begins to move? Go to the second cylinder and repeat the steps above for that cylinder. What we are doing in this "test" is determining whether the piston, connecting rod, and crankshaft are still intact (I only mean they are still connected together as an assembly). Due to the "1.25 turn" you cite, I expect you to find that one of the pistons will have a "dead zone" of movement in its travel. This is when the flywheel rotates a few degrees without the piston moving. The "dead zone" of movement will be at the max UP and max DOWN positions. If you find this to be true, the connecting rod is very likely "burned up" from loss of lubrication due to the oil being thinned out by gasoline contamination. If you find the "dead zone" of piston travel, you will want to compare the piston travel distance of one cylinder to the other. Using a ruler or other device, record the depth (position of piston at its max DOWN point and at its max UP point) of each piston and cylinder. Measure from the top edge of the cylinder to the top of piston. Do this for both cylinders and compare the depth figures. The cylinder having the lower value (shorter travel) will be the affected cylinder. If you detect a "dead zone" of piston travel on BOTH CYLINDERS, that means BOTH connecting rods are likely burned up. In this case do the following. Turn the fly wheel until one of the pistons reaches the max UP point for that piston. When it is at max UP, measure distance from top of cylinder to top of piston (or mark the cylinder at the top edge of piston with a crayon or pencil) Next,turn the flywheel in the opposite direction until the piston "just begins to move". When this piston begins to move, stop turning the flywheel. Using a non metallic tool (hammer HANDLE, piece of broom handle, or a dowel), push downward on this piston (hold the flywheel stationary when doing this). The piston will move in the cylinder and then stop. Measure the distance the piston moved in the cylinder and record that. Repeat the steps on the opposite cylinder. .......................................................... While each piston is in its DOWN position, inspect the cylinder walls. Are the cylinder walls nice and shiny, and smooth with a glossy surface appearance? Or are they full of rough, scratchy looking grooves that run up and down the cylinder walls? Do the above "tests" and report back with your findings. .............................................. To respond to the post by johntommybob about the possibility of the starter causing the engine to "abruptly stop" when it is being turned. Consider that the drive pinion gear on the starter is very small and has few teeth compared to the engine flywheel ring gear. This means that the armature (rotor) of the starter must turn many revolutions in order to turn the flywheel one revolution. Conversely, when turning the flywheel by hand, one revolution (or 1.25 revolution) of the flywheel would cause the starter drive pinion gear to rotate many revolutions. If the "binding" or "abrupt stop" cited in this case were due to a locked up starter, I would think that the flywheel would be "un-turnable" at all. AND it would require that the starter drive pinion gear be "stuck into" the ring gear as well. Since the starter might be burned up (remember the smoke), it would not hurt to go ahead and take the starter off the engine anyway. I just don't expect to find the starter as the cause of the "abrupt stop" symptom seen here.

Kelly, with all what you did to the plant, I would not doubt the plant has suffered. But, strange things happen..and plants can adapt to hardship.....and without going into too much detail about how you cared for the plant, you might nick the stem...or a branch and see if there is any sign of moisture remaining. Now....let's assume there is something there....and you are right, the light levels of Indiana and most of the United States, is at their lowest. The winter solstace begins on Wednesday...the 21st....and then the sun begins its long voyage back til June 21st If you have a coldcellar, or a place in your basement...or an old unused refrigerator that you can set the temperature to about 40 - 50 degrees....then your plant can be looked on as one that wqill come back to how you saw it a couple months ago. If you have such a place where your plant can go...and remain...untouched by human hands, your plant WILL COME BACK. But, you must not water it, you must not give it any light, you must not give it any increased temperatures. The plant will dry out.....completely. You might think to sprinkle it....DONT....the coming back can only be done if you leave the plant alone...in the coolness and in the dark. Round about mid February to mid March, you then bring the plant back out into the light, clean it up, tear the roots apart, cut it back (yours wont need much if any), into a clean pot (clay is nice), with some fresh potting soil.... (have something in the pot to keep the soil up away from the drainage hole...shards, or stones ...whatever... make a hole in the soil, put your plant in, firm it up...and water. Water it til drainage is seen in the saucer below. Allow full drainage. Then take it to the best sun you have....but north will not do...and do not water again until new leaves form. When the leaves begin to show, you can begin to feed your plant...1/4 rate 20/20/20...every 3rd or 4th watering. When you water, always water until drainage is seen...and dump the excess. Never leave your plant sitting in that drainage water. As the leaves come on, you can increase fertilizer. Depending on the amount of available light, the plant will begin to produce flower buds....and you should not be alarmed if they are slow in coming.....even to the day you put it outside. Bloom will come. That's all there is to it....but it depends on you not pushing it to do something until mid February. The other way is to treat your plant like a houseplant...pot it up...(make sure it drains well), water til it drains and give it the best sun...west or south. No other exposure will do....not at this time of year. Wait until new leaves form before watering again...and feed as above. This method can work for a plant in good health...yours may not have sufficient energy to do anything....and I suggest you seriously consider doing the "dry" method. It is safe, and it works.

Good information, thanks. This has reinforced what I've known. Just thought that perhaps, they had improved it somehow. You also brought out a good point about "go phones". A couple of days ago, I called AT & T. The agent took a look at my account and was trying to pursuade me to get this special package deal. I told him that I did not want to pay more services. I wanted to keep what I have, a home phone and internet service (DSL). He assured me that I will get all that and plus more for less. You know how it is, when it's too good to be true, check it again and again! So, I asked him, do I keep my landline phone and the Pro speed DSL? He replied: "Yes! You get the whole digital package with the home phone and an even faster internet service and plus more options on your phone. And the saving is about $5 per month". Ha! I caught him saying digital. I questioned him again but soon I realized that he didn't understood the term "landline". So, I asked him is my phone going to be digital? He replied: "Yes", and I replied back: "No thanks" which he kept telling me "but it's the same!". I explained to him, digital works only with power, no power, no digital. He now realized what I have been trying to verify the past 20 minutes. He continued with the sale pitch: "but when power is out, we have a 4 hour back up system which gives you plenty of time to save your information on your computer and turn it off safely". "Huh?... what?... only 4 hours?!". I continued to explain to him that when power is off, my landline phone works above and beyond the call of duty. Last hurricane, our power was cut off for 3 days. My landline phone was working all along. I need it in case of emergency! He finally understood and gave up on the sale (^_^). During the London bombing years ago, I learned how useless cellular phones were. I warned my family and friend and to keep their landline phone and purchase a $10 corded phone to use in power outage incidents. Lo and behold, it happened. During hurricane Ike, cellular phone wasn't accessible to the public. Everybody thought that the lines were busy and the cause of why they couldn't get through. Certainly, that wasn't the case at all. Cellular phone line was reserved to Homeland Security communication only. However, the public could use text (data) 24/7 and cellular line was open at night between 9 pm - 6 am. Funny how it was, I was only able to get in touch with family & friends that still had the landline phones. Those that didn't learned their lesson. Cellular phone is nice and convenient to have but in case of emergency, it's just not dependable.