Spanky67- I saw the same Finehomebuilding article. I couldn't find the switch they mentioned in the article locally so I went with the motion detector version. I might upgrade to the toggle switch someday if I ever get around to ordering it online ($30?), but for now the fan works great and I don't have to remember to go down and see if someone left it on which was my main pet peeve. It does go on every time someone enters the room, which can be a pain if you are just replacing towels or to empty trashcan. The toggle like yours (wired just to fan) would allow me to leave the switch off, change out the towels, trash and no fan running for extra time. Teaching the kids to turn on both switches is a little trickier (one for fan, one for lights) turn both off (fan still runs) turn on only lights (no fan continues to run). I know I could wire both fan and light onto one switch and use a blank over the other faceplate but then I am back to the same problem of the fan running too long if I only needed to drop off some TP, soap, etc. This is a ½ bath so no moisture to worry about. In the meantime this works out 90% of the time just the way I need it to. When we redo the kids & master bath upstairs I will start this mental dance of the electric switch plates/ fan/ vent/ moisture/ odor/ how many buttons to turn on/ off and not think about it again Âall over again. LOL Our fan is a Nutone 1.0 sones much quieter then any of the older bath vents we have upstairs which you can hear running from across the hall when the door is closed. The 1.0 is a very soft white noise you hear while in the room but cannot hear it running at all from out side the room when door is closed and can barely hear it outside the room when door is open unless standing close to doorway. I hope this helps. I know how hard it is to get an idea about these things until they are already installed and itÂs too late. I donÂt think you can go wrong with a fan 1.0 or less but definitely not more than 1.0 you wonÂt be happy.

Sure ... an electrician can do it. But probably not without punching holes in the wall and running new cable. Below is how your wiring is PROBABLY set up (but there are multiple ways it could be set up). Power from the switch goes to the front door light and then travels on to the other two lights. What you'd need is on the right in the diagram below. EITHER the blue line which is a new cable from the switch to the front door light (so that both the constant power and the switched power is available at the door light box). OR the pink line that carries the switched power to the 2nd and third light. Which line is easier to run depends on your specific situation. As I said, there are other ways that this could currently be wired and it is possible that you already have something equivalent to the pink line setup already and no new cables need to be run, but I doubt it. Opening up the switch box (with the power off) and investigating what wires are there could confirm the situation.

I know nothing about this unit, but will offer this. If the lighting is LED, which it appears to be. You may have to remove the entire assembly. Most LED's that come in appliances unfortunately do not appear to be serviceable. I am assuming the LED's themselves have gone out, or the sensor has malfunctioned. Also assuming the unit is getting power. If I were going to do this repair, I would test the wiring to insure it is getting power and if so order the display module and replace it.

Home Depot has such lights. You must leave the indoor switch on when you want the light to turn on via its motion sensor but you can flip that switch to force the light to stay on and later revert to motion-sensor mode (see instructions). I wouldn't use a light with bulbs or LEDs with a color temperature over 3000K. Remember Dark Sky guidelines for outdoor lighting: lighting should Only be on when needed Only light the area that needs it Be no brighter than necessary Minimize blue light emissions Be fully shielded (pointing downward)