If you use two transformers then you'll need an electrical isolator in the tracks. Basically you don't want two transformers powering the same electrical section of track. As for dimming, either: 1) You have the wrong dimmer. You have to make sure that your dimmer matches the type of transformer. For example, if it's a magnetic transformer, you need a magnetic low voltage dimmer. Or if it's an electronic transformer, you need an electronic low voltage dimmers. 2) It's just not dimmable. The lower priced/ end transformers generally can't be dimmed without a hum/ buzz.

Oops, I bought a Leviton magnetic transformer already, a few weeks ago and before I nailed down which transformer to buy:-( I just ordered a Juno magnetic transformer, should I even try to see whether the Leviton dimmer works with the transformer or just exchange it for a Lutron?

Depends on how you want to control them. If all you are doing is turn them on and off, it shouldn't be much of a problem. If you want to dim them, that's where issues start to crop up. Not to be too reductionist or too simplistic here, but most LEDs are solid state electronics, not really technically electrical, and require low voltage DC power, so not only is there a transformer (whether you see it or not), but usually some sort of AC/DC rectifier. Not all electronics behave well to being dimmed with typical rheostat wall switch dimmers. That's also why some LED lights have a slight delay turning on, the electronics. Even if they say they handle 120v and can be dimmed, it doesn't always work as advertised. Depending on why people on these forums recommend the Inspire LEDs (I'm not familiar with them) I would still stick with something either I know or people I respect know. If I want to dim LEDs today, I would buy a whole system that includes the lighting controller—like a Philips HUE system for traditional style light bulbs. LEDs have not been perfected to the point that anything you buy will behave properly. But if none of that matters, just get whatever you want that behaves like you want it (if you don't want the delay in turing on, for instance) Joe

Volt, understood. I think it would be pretty cool if you did LV pier mounts though... They’re hard to find and more and more people are moving to LV systems. I think you could sell them for much more as well. Maybe a bit more challenging for DIY, but many folks, like me, are working with contractors on a bigger job and this type of install is no problem. My plan now is to buy a normal line voltage fixture, put in a low voltage bulb, and wire it up to my Volt slimline transformer. Fingers crossed. Lastly, I saw this from Cascade Lighting website: “Our customers often ask if we offer 12 volt post top or column mount lanterns. We are happy to answer that any post top or column mount lantern with a medium base (A19 – or Edison screw base) socket or the smaller candelabra base socket may be installed with a low voltage 12 volt system or simply alone. The secret is that the lantern socket solely depends on the voltage of the lamp installed and the voltage to the lamps. There is no need for a “conversion kit” to turn a 120v fixture into a 12 volt powered fixture. 12v Post Top and Column Mount Lantern Lamp Choices If you are installing a lantern and want it to operate as a 12 volt system, you would first choose a 12v incandescent or LED lamp to fit the lantern socket type (medium base or candelabra). There are various wattage output options available and in stock at Cascade. The next step is to connect the lantern wire leads to the proper direct burial low voltage cable size (to fit the job) and then connect the cable to a professional grade magnetic landscape transformer. “