I'll go see tomorrow. We have just larger than 8 gage wire, it was unlabeled but electrician lives down the street. Thought we went from 25 to 40 but must have been from 30 to 50. We went from single GE profile to Wolf Double Oven.

Some of these are built so that that the oven element and broiler element both come on during the cleaning cycle. So possibly with these 2 units and all the burners on you could draw more than 50 amps. It would be unusual in normal usage to have this happen. You could also be using pre-heat (uses oven and broiler elements) and all of the surface units at the same time and probably exceed too. I sold appliances for years and never once heard the complaint of anyone ever tripping even a 40 amp breaker through normal usage.

"The breaker protects the appliances on the circuit, not the wiring." Not exactly. Depends on the circuit and the equipment which it supplies. In some cases, the overcurrent protection value is selected for the equipment, while the conductor size is also selected for the equipment. The rules for motors could result in a #12 being protected at 40 amperes in certain cases Examples are motors and air conditioning/refrigerating equipment. The protection is based on conductor size alone in the case of general purpose branch circuits in residences and many other applications. The NEC has many nuances and special cases that must be considered. In the case of the range, if the manufacturer of the range specifies a maximum of 40 amperes for the supply overcurrent protection, then the installation of the 40 amp breaker is correctly indicated-- and needed.

My dual fuel range required a new 50 amp circuit, which was relatively easy because there was space in the 200 amp panel and unfinished basement under the kitchen. My range did not require a separate 120 volt circuit, but apparently some models do need a separate feed. From what I recall, the 50 amp circuit required a 50 amp breaker in the panel, 6/3 NM-B copper wire run from the breaker to the plug, and a NEMA 14-50R receptacle for the range to plug into. You also need the cable clamp at the panel and the wire staples to secure the cable, but that is typical of any wiring installation. If you already have the proper 6/3 cable running to the range plug, you probably only need to have a new 50 amp breaker and the proper receptacle installed for your cooktop. Bruce