I've have a silent paint remover and have used it inside and out. Done a lot of trim and doors inside. Done three sides of house outside. One more to go! :) Get and use the scrapers they sell. You don't need any of the fancy ones. Just the plain ol triangular ones. They sell replacement blades for them very cheap, especially if you buy a five pack. I really can't tell you how much better these scrapers work. Keep the blades on the scraper sharp. Very important. I found a sharp blade would last about a days worth of scraping. When the paint literally bubbles off, that's and oil based and will come off the easiest. When is kind of burns off, that's latex. SPR will handle both. I didn't find is useful for detail work, tight corners (like stairs) or windows. To hard to put the heat where you want it and keep it from where you've already stripped. It works great on claps. Contrary to what they say, hit the claps with a random orbital sander using 36 or 40 grit after stripping. A light hand sanding ain't gonna cut it. Not at least on my 200 year old home with every type of paint ever invented. Then prime, then two coats of paint. No need to pressure wash. Oh, they have some tip on their website, for dried out areas, to apply some linseed oil to it a few days ahead of time. Doesn't work. I tried it. Made a big mess. Google search will confirm my results. Also, forget the linseed oil on the claps after priming. Unless you want you claps to be covered with black mold in a few months. To speed things along you MAY consider shortening the fins that keep the SPR off the claps. Stripping paint is hard work. For claps it doesn't require a lot of know how. Just grunt work. You might consider outsourcing this to some day labor. You'd be suprprised how much progress two people can make in day. Here's a good reviews... http://www.houseinprogress.net/archives/000108.html http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/removing-exterior-paint.htm

In the 1970's the EPA issued a mandate requiring them to stop making lead based paints, but even prior to that only a small percentage of the paints available actually contained lead, therefore it is quite feasible that you have no lead based paint in your home.

I was quoted 3-4 weeks for the range then 4-5 weeks when I added colored knobs so we shall see...the distributor for the area told me they tend to quote further out than necessary, as Joe stated above, and hope to get them items out to you sooner. I was just really surprised at how long it would take. I thought maybe a week or two but a month was not something I had considered. Oh well, we have been without an oven (range top still works at least) since Christmas Day, I guess a few more weeks won't hurt!

I bought this Bosch sander exclusively for painting my house. 40-60 grit is great for doing a scuff sand after scrapping all loose paint. Connected to my Festool CT36, it did a great job. https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/random-orbit-sanders-1250devs-27677-p/ The old rule was no oil over latex, but that is no longer true. I would snap some photos and get some feedback from a real paint store. If you scuff sand the previous paint that is in good shape, you technically don't need primer. I think either will work in your situation. Oil will be a better option if you have a lot of exposed wood or heavy stains.