I think this company is selling used Silent Painters on EBay also for a bit less. I have a whole house to paint (and scrape!) and if this works as well as it says, it is probably worth the cost. I looked into the Paint Shaver, but this is cheaper, and seems safer. It does look too good to be true, but I looked at the This Old House article, and they give it a great recommendation.

There was also a good site I came across while researching this tool. It's about repainting an old house, plus they used the Silent Paint Remover.

http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/index.shtml

Here is a link that might be useful: Old House Painting

Sounds great, but expensive (at least for the whole system). But then, if you've ever scraped a whole house there are days (about the second day of the month-long process!) when you'd beg to pay five times that much for any way to speed it up.

Has anybody here used one?

Molly~

I've been looking up info on this all day, and all the places I've seen it used have had good things to say. That includes blogs, etc. by people restoring their homes. $400 is a small price to pay when you have a whole house to scrape, and estimates run into the five figures for a paintjob done right.

It looks like a good product. I see that they claim it does not release lead gases..."when operated properly." To be safe, I would call and ask for details on what this means. They also say that the tool does not produce dust. While that appears to be technically true, you have to recognize that the actual hand scraping, even of softened paint, is going to release some dust. Therefore, I would suggest several things:
1. Make sure you know what type of operation would cause it to release lead gases (I'm presuming it means heating too much, and that may be hard to get just right).
2. Wear a respirator when working with this tool to prevent inhaling fine lead dust from the scraping. By respirator, I mean a real, half-face respirator with toxic dust canisters (probably $40), not one of those $3 dust masks.
3. For interior use, make sure to seal off the rooms you are working in so that you don't contaminate other parts of the house, and clean up well after you're finished. This is especially important around children as they are much more susceptible to lead poisoning (smaller bodies, and more efficient metabolism).
4. For exterior use, spread some plastic so that you don't get lead-containing paint chips left behind and mixed into the soil.

I'm not trying to discourage you. In fact, although I have an environmental health background and am cautious about operations like this, I would consider using one of these tools myself. I would just make sure I did it safely. I'm simply cautioning you so that you don't think this tool is so perfect you don't need to take any safety precautions around old, lead-containing paint.

The SPR is the best thing to happen to house restoration since the resurgence of lime. :)

Seriously, they do work just like they say. It does not reach a temperature high enough to release lead paint fumes, and the paint is released almost as a putty consistency that if you scrape and clean up properly, dust is to a real minimum.

They're fabulous. I borrowed one for a bit, and now am scraping the money together to buy one. Well worth the $$.

That's what I like to hear, Gina, especially since I just ordered one! LOL I want to use it mainly for the outside of our house, and I'll try it on some of the woodwork, too, since I can bring that all outside as well.

One of the painters we had gotten an estimate called yesterday, and I asked him about it, and he kind of chuckled. He's been in the business 30 years and does a beautiful job, but I guess some people stick with what they know, in this case hand scraping.

I'll take some photos of our house now before I get the tool and some afterwards so everyone can see a comparison.

Blackcat,

I'll be watching for your report on how it goes. Thanks for being the guinea pig. I hope it works like gangbusters!

Molly!

Most of the restoration-only contractors I know swear by the SPR. Some of the window guys use the huge steam boxes when possible, but that's not always possible.

I was skeptical until I actually had a chance to use one. There's a bit of a learning curve but I never want to touch a heat gun again!

I'm told that the reason it works so well is that the infrared technology somehow draws the resin from within the wood, pulling the paint out with it. When I saw my first demonstration I was amazed at how clean the wood was afterward...and it worked so quickly!!

Now I'm all jealous that I had to borrow one, and you're going to have one of your very, very own.

I have one, and I've used it on lead paint.

I first spent 6 hours with stripping gel. In 6 hours of gel, I got only about 15% of my hutch stripped (I counted about 6 layers of paint, and I think 3 of them were lead-based). I couldn't find anyone who was willing to take such a small job. We got a painter's estimate as part of a larger painting job, and it was only marginally more expensive to buy the SPR (plus now we can use the SPR for other projects). With the SPR, I got the whole hutch done (with DH's assistance) in a few hours. It was so much easier, less messy, and less frustrating than the gel! The layers of paint come off in one strip, unlike the gel.

We used dust masks and made sure the windows were open (no fans blowing). We also wore gloves. Even though the lead does not get hot enough to vaporize, the scraping can get dusty. The paint comes off in softened, rubbery strips, but when they cool off, they get crumbly. We lined the area with newspaper, scraped directly into a bag when possible, and cleaned up very well afterwards.

We also used a sharp, pull-type scraper (bought the triangular one, but probably any good quality pull-type scrapers would work). Putty knives will not be as efficient at getting all the layers off at once.

There were some areas that looked a little singed because we probably left it on too long, and there were some corner areas that didn't get hit with heat at the correct angle, so they didn't come out as clean. Because we were painting over it, we didn't need it to be that clean, so it was fine by us.

Oh, goody, an owner's report! I am keen to hear more of them. Blackcat, did you decide to take the plunge? Hope you will post your results.

Molly~

Well, I did take the plunge! The SPR came very quickly, and I felt almost giddy carrying the box inside. It was well packed with peanuts and has a nifty yellow carrying case, although the case didn't have any padding or anything inside. The idea of jarring those light tubes makes me nervous!!

So, I waited til my husband was home to try it out just in case I burned the house up, but luckily I've used it three times, and the house is still standing, although I did singe it like blueiris. I think the trick is to not go over the same area right away since the wood gets dry. On my house it seems to work better on the thick alligatored areas. On the parts that were touched up, probably with latex, the thinner layer gets a bit rubbery and full of little bubbles.

I don't have the triangular scraper they sell, but I was using a pull scraper, and I am not too happy with it. I got a sharp beveled putty knife and it seems to be working well. Maybe my paint is too thick for my pull scraper, who knows. I am trying different things to see what works, and I may end up ordering the triangle one. I do wish they had included one with the tool, though.

Since I'm still getting used to working with the SPR, I probably have a lot more to learn. I'm happy with it so far, and cleanup is definately easier since paint falls straight down to the dropcloth and doesn't fly in all directions like with dry scraping. The SPR also cools down very quickly when it's turned off.

If only they had included a burly fellow to hold it up for me, the tool would be almost perfect!

Cat

Cat, are you using it on clapboards? If so, they also have a clapboard scraper. It looks like the triangle one, but it's shaped so that it can scrape the edge along with the flat surface. I have no idea if it works well, though. I'm glad your sharp putty knife worked--the putty knives I was talking about were the 3-pack plastic ones that I used with the gel! Maybe the scrapers just need to be sharp to work. One thing about the pull scraper for me was that I was stripping vertical surfaces, and I was afraid that using a push-type putty knife would cause the heated paint scrapings to fall on my hand (though I guess the gloves would have protected me).

Also, I think you're right in that it seems to work better on older or thicker paint. There were a few areas on the hutch that I had partially-stripped with the gel, but I painted over it with color sample paint when trying to decide the color. The SPR didn't work as well on the thinned areas or on the samples, though with the samples, I think it's because they don't have a true paint base--I think the SPR heat does something to paint base that loosens it from the wood.

Well, you guys have me convinced. My house is small, but the back of one portion is 3 stories tall, as it is on a slope. This tool would let me have to go up there once, and minimize the time. It would be worth the $$$ just for that, and the increased assurance that the new paint job will last. Thanks for the tip about the clapboard scraper-- that's what I need.

Dayle Ann

We are using stiff putty knives, pull type scrapers and steam to soften the paint. See the "Get Up to Speed on Steam" article in the current issue of Old-House Journal. Or, learn more at:

http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133

John

Here is a link that might be useful: Steam Paint Removal info

Does anyone rent these machines for smaller projects like Home Depot?

Has anyone tried it on varnish or wallpaper? I suppose the wallpaper could possibly be a fire hazard but maybe if it was wet first...?

Sorry I am late to this question, but you can make your own and save a ton of money. It's very easy to make. I just made one and it works great. Total cost to make, $40.

A more modern version of the old heater pan type of paint remover...at a seriously updated price.
I have one about 40 years old in the basement.
Plug it in, coils get red hot, paint warms and softens (and blisters if there is a lot or you heat too much), scrape paint off.
The one I have is about 4 x 8 inches and needs a 20 amp circuit (and #10 extension cords). Has a nice wood handle also.

I've have a silent paint remover and have used it inside and out. Done a lot of trim and doors inside. Done three sides of house outside. One more to go! :)

Get and use the scrapers they sell. You don't need any of the fancy ones. Just the plain ol triangular ones. They sell replacement blades for them very cheap, especially if you buy a five pack. I really can't tell you how much better these scrapers work.

Keep the blades on the scraper sharp. Very important. I found a sharp blade would last about a days worth of scraping.

When the paint literally bubbles off, that's and oil based and will come off the easiest. When is kind of burns off, that's latex. SPR will handle both.

I didn't find is useful for detail work, tight corners (like stairs) or windows. To hard to put the heat where you want it and keep it from where you've already stripped.

It works great on claps. Contrary to what they say, hit the claps with a random orbital sander using 36 or 40 grit after stripping. A light hand sanding ain't gonna cut it. Not at least on my 200 year old home with every type of paint ever invented. Then prime, then two coats of paint. No need to pressure wash.

Oh, they have some tip on their website, for dried out areas, to apply some linseed oil to it a few days ahead of time. Doesn't work. I tried it. Made a big mess. Google search will confirm my results.

Also, forget the linseed oil on the claps after priming. Unless you want you claps to be covered with black mold in a few months.

To speed things along you MAY consider shortening the fins that keep the SPR off the claps.

Stripping paint is hard work. For claps it doesn't require a lot of know how. Just grunt work. You might consider outsourcing this to some day labor. You'd be suprprised how much progress two people can make in day.

Here's a good reviews...

http://www.houseinprogress.net/archives/000108.html

http://www.hereandthere.org/oldhouse/removing-exterior-paint.htm

Hi,
Triangle-bladed scraper: if it's the pattern I'm familiar with, it is one of the most dangerous small tools on the jobsite. Especially if it's kept "razor sharp" (as a paint scraper well should be...)
If you step on it or lean against it with your hand while perched up on your walk board, you are going to the emergency room. Paint the handle day-glo so you always know where it is.
Casey

I am repainting the exterior of my 1924 house, and I have both a Silent Paint Remover (SPR) and a Paint Shaver (PS), and I actually prefer the Paint Shaver. But then I have clapboards with serious paint failure, peeling off in chunks. The SPR does create some fumes, in fact, and if I had a team, might work much better. But I'm alone, and putting it up, heating, and putting it down to scrape really is a chore.
The PS works great, I actually use the "brush" attachment since my paint is so old. It zips right through the paint, 3 feet of clapboard in about a minute. And I can hook it up to my shop-vac, so most of the paint goes into the HEPA bag. The downside is it's easy to dig into the old wood, so I have to be very gentle. And it's not good with corners, but I can use the SPR for those.
Carla in Sacramento