Electric ink &/or Glue: Replace wiring in my house?

10 years ago

I'm doing an electrical upgrade. What a stupid idea! Trying to deal with the drunk diva's of the trade., who I would like to fire before going further. Anyway, I'm reading about electric ink & electric glue. THis is ink or glue that carries a current. Is there a reason that I can't run my wiring throughout my house by using this ink? Pls explain. This is urgent bcs I need to make an urgent decision. To fire or not to put up with the drunk divas. If I use the ink or glue instead of actual wire, how do I attach the switches, the recepticals & make the attachments in the panels. Most important, I guess, how do I pass the city of San Diego Code. Thx for your help. Puppy love from inventingJoy & Furry Folk.

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Comments (11)

ionized_gw
10 years ago
Troll?
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InventingJoy
Original Author
10 years ago
I'm not a troll. his is a serious question. ` ThinkGeek :: Electric Paint Pen with Conductive Ink www.thinkgeek.com InventingJoy
0
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I'm thinking along joed's lines, myself. In the first place, relying on wire color alone is not altogether safe because it depends only on what kind of wires were used by whoever wired the original. Most likely, the original thermostats are two-pole, 240V line voltage switches. I'm guessing that because there are two black and two red wires (no whites--which might tend to suggest neutrals present, and possibly, a single-pole 120V switch). But rather than "assume" (and we all know what that stands for), it'd be better to understand the circuitry. One method is to trace the wires and determine which two are line supply wires (i.e., provide power from the panel) and which two are load feeds (i.e., go directly to the heater elements). Another way is to use a meter or tester to verify incoming 240V supply. Keep in mind that some thermostats only switch one pole. That's true, for example, with a Honeywell CT1950A--it is a single-pole switch. The Honeywell CT1950B is a two-pole switch. (See this PDF for details.) Although those particular instructions do show the lines as two blacks and the loads as two reds, that's somewhat puzzling. I agree with joed's point that the two line connectors are at least as likely, if not more likely, to be red and black and the two loads also red and black. (In still other cases, one or more of the cables may be black and white, even if it is a 240v circuit!) Bottom line: let's make sure we understand the circuitry before making a recommendation. One other point in passing: Electric heaters can pull a quite a bit of power and it's important to pay attention to the amperage ratings of the thermostat/switches. Can you verify that your replacement thermostats have (1) enough capacity to serve the total demands of the heaters they serve and/or (2) that they are as large or larger than the thermostats they are replacing?
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"People who do not have a multimeter or have one and don't understand how to use it shouldn't monkey around with electricity." The only way you learn to trace circuits and use test gear is by doing it. It's nice to have expert guidance, but you can also get help from books, which is how I learned to use a VOM as an adolescent. (No DMMs in those days. Also, no internet. We had libraries, though. :) But here we are more than 2 weeks after the original post, and if the OP has done any circuit tracing, I haven't seen reference to it. My guess (and I hope he'll correct me if I'm wrong) is that he doesn't want to get into the project quite that deeply, and is hoping he can just buy a solution. His proposed purchase is a thermostat which has a similar configuration to the old one. That seems like it ought to work, but a digital thermostat still works on a completely different principle from a mechanical one. So the NEW new thermostat may work when connected like the old one was. Or it may not work at all. Or it may work only partly. Or it may go pop or BANG. Or it may just quietly release a little puff of smoke and stink. There's even a slight chance he could get hurt or damage something else, the worst case scenario. I just think that if he doesn't want to do the hard technical work of tracing things out (and there's nothing wrong with having different priorities), it's probably best to turn this over to a pro, and get it over and done with and WORKING.
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joefixit2
10 years ago
The product specs say it is good up to 12 volts DC, won't work for house wiring. It looks like more of a novelty item than anything, might work for home made circuit boards.
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btharmy
10 years ago
No. No. No. There is no easy, cheap, quick way out. That is why (despite what some might say about it these days) electricians are skilled tradesmen and deserve to be treated and compensated as such. I hope the "drunk divas" you speak of are not contractors you hired off of Craigslist. If so, check for a license and insurance. Remember, you get what you pay for. If you choose to skimp up front, you may end up paying more in the long run. References are your friend. Ask around, friends, family, workmates. If they are happy with a contractor, most are happy to pass on a phone number.
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JXBrown (Sunset 24, N San Diego County)
10 years ago
Also, if a contractor ever offers to "save you some money" by not pulling permits and getting his work inspected, run -- do not walk -- away. Permit fees are a cheap price to pay for having somebody knowledgeable check the contractors work.

I was changing some light switches and fixtures and installing fan controllers at my parents' new house this weekend. I found some scary-bad amateur wiring. Inspections are a good thing.
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countryboymo
10 years ago
Maybe get conductive tatoo ink. Solar panel on balding head or remote battery pack for hearing aids.. solar panel and pocket phone charger?
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InventingJoy
Original Author
10 years ago
Countryboymo, I love the way you think. Your my kind of guy thinking outside the box. Just bcs its never been done doesn't mean it shouldn't be done. Right? Can you tell me more? Any suggestions abt attaching to switches & passing code? btw I have permit & have had a preliminary inspection from the head electrician inspector. Very nice guy who said he will personally do my inspection. He gave me a lot of info, like about how to pass the light fixture that I created. I should post a photo of it bcs I think you would like it Countryboy. I'll check out your site.
I parted company with the last diva after he treated me to a 3/4 hr drunken phone lecture on all the details of the job. I'm doing the job myself with the help of my excellent handyman. We will go as far as we can, leaving the difficult things to the end. Then hire someone for the tough stuff. But if it can be one with one of those inks or glue, I will go down to the city & attempt to get them on board. It wont be easy but they have approved straw bale houses so maybe.......
Thanks again for your response. Puppy love from InventingJoy & Furry folk
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countryboymo
10 years ago
I am sorry but there is no ink product capable of carrying the load that would make any sense cost wise and also no way it would pass any sort of real inspection now or later.
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User
10 years ago
Whatcha bet, CO or WA state resident enjoying the new legal recreational substance?
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btharmy
10 years ago
Is this thread some kind of joke?

"We will go as far as we can, leaving the difficult things to the end. Then hire someone for the tough stuff."

You couldn't pay me enough to come in to "finish" a job that was done by a "handyman" and homeowner that obviously has no practical, working knowledge of electricity or electrical systems. I am completely amazed.
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jimu57
10 years ago
joke or not, use wire.
0

Electric ink &/or Glue: Replace wiring in my house?

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Electric ink &/or Glue: Replace wiring in my house?

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