Updating service to 200A

17 years ago

Hi,

I am updating my service to 200A. Service entrance is on the gable end of my home. I want to run a 2" PVC sch 40 conduit riser up from the meter socket to the weatherhead and install 4/0 Al triplex. I don't want to use jacketed cable. The riser will be about 15' high. The riser will be connected to the meter box with a weathertight hub.

Getting the wire into my house, I've hooked up a 1' long 2" PVC Sch 40 conduit running out the back of the meter box, through a conc. block wall, to a 90 degree Ell on the inside, to a Sch 80 90 degree sweep down to the main panel. I used bushings on the attachments at the meter box and main panel. I guess I need 3 to 4 feet of wire for this run. I want to use the same style triplex as used for the riser.

Does anyone see any issues with this configuration?

What should I look for in a triplex? The wire at Home Depot is 4/0,4/0,2/0 SEU XLP. I'm not sure about the 2/0 neutral, is that valid for 200A run above ground in conduit? Is XLP suitable for sunlight exposure?

Thanks,

FullMetal

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Comments (14)

bus_driver
17 years ago
That is OK. To both questions.
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
Wow! That was quick!

Thanks for the reply.

What is the rationale for the smaller neutral? I realize the unlikelyhood of an unbalanced 200A load on one leg and 0A on the other, but that is possible. Is it as simple as 2/0 Al can handle 200A, but with no safety margin?

TIA,

FullMetal
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bigbird_1
17 years ago
You'll never get 200A return on the neutral if the panel is inspected. An inspector would say "whoa, you've got all your loads on only one leg, change it!" This also assumes no 240V cc'ts which today is also an impossibilty unless you have no stove or dryer. You could use 4/0 AL neutral if you wanted, but why throw away money?
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
I've installed the riser, weatherhead and 4/0,4/0,2/0 AL SE triplex. Thanks for the feedback bus_driver and bigbird_1.

More questions:

To reduce cold air entering the building via the raceway, is it permissible (in the USA) to plug the ends of the raceway with duct seal? What is the preferred method for sealing if not duct seal?

The PVC weatherhead I used leaves a significant gap around the wires. Should I use duct seal to keep out the wasps?

I installed two ground rods and a #4 Cu solid bare wire loop (main panel to rod1 to rod2 back to main panel, no splices). I understand this to be sufficient for grounding requirements.
I currently have no wire connecting the ground rods to the water supply. If I run a bare wire from the main panel to the water lines (beyond code requirement):
What size wire should I use?
Do I need to run the wire to the water main entrance, or can I connect the wire somewhere along the water line?

When running a wire around the water meter, what size wire should I use?
What size wire should I use to bond the hot and cold lines over the water heater? I have some scrap #6 Cu. If I should go with #4, I'll have to buy a few feet.

I will be scheduling the inspection within a few days.

Thanks in advance,
FullMetal
petey_racer
17 years ago
If you have a metallic water line feeding the house you MUST use this as an electrode. This is NOT beyond code, it IS code. This connection should be made to the main panel.
You MUST make the connection to this pipe within 5' of where the pipe enters the house.
You must jumper around the meter and any fittings that breaker the electrical continuity such as a plastic filter housing.
For your service you must use a #4cu or larger for this GEC/bond.

Even if this were not a metallic pipe feeding into the house you are still required to bond the metallic water piping system of the house.
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
Ok. I will make the connection.
I just got off the phone with the inspector. He confirms the grounding requirements.

He also said it was ok to use duct seal.

Thanks,

FullMetal
guyinacoldhouse
17 years ago
Is the use of #4 Cu required by the NEC? I thought it was #6 or greater. The inspector who told me to put in the ground rods told me to use #6 copper wire to connect them to my box, here in Virginia we can use #6 copper wire for grounds in a residence.
petey_racer
17 years ago
The #4 I referred to is for the water bond/electrode. I was not referring to a ground rod.
The sole connection to a ground rod never needs to be larger than #6 (unless it is subject to damage).
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
The inspector just left. The new service passed inspection with no issues.

Thanks for the help all!
FullMetal
sbrn33
17 years ago
I hate be the bearer of bad news but--- The riser has to be sched 80 according to 230.50.
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
"I hate be the bearer of bad news but--- The riser has to be sched 80 according to 230.50."

Wouldn't that depend on if it was "subject to physical damage?" Then of course, one would have to define what that means. I can understand using Sch80 where exiting the ground, but five feet off the ground up to the roofline? At my location it is impossible to drive a vehicle within 10' or so. I'm not trying to argue, just asking for interpretation.

Too bad someone didn't chime in earlier. I also asked my inspector if sch40 was ok (prior to me hanging it on the wall).

So, what should I do now? What would you contractors do?

FullMetal
normel
17 years ago
"The inspector just left. The new service passed inspection with no issues."

I think that says it all.
petey_racer
17 years ago
I agree.
fullmetal
Original Author
17 years ago
Thanks for the input.
I'll let the dogs sleep.