Yayagal, the knobs are another story - I didn't want to do the same hardware as in the kitchen, not even the same material, but I wasn't sure what would be right. Shiny stuff like nickle didn't seem right for us. Then there was the whole knob vs handle question. Many knobs aren't as comfortable to use as handles. I started looking at my husband's Fine Woodworking magazines to see what was on that furniture. The hardware on much of the furniture tended to be smaller. There was one knob that I saw in an ad that had a very pleasing and utilitarian shape. The ad wasn't about knobs - it just happened to have a picture of some drawers. That got me thinking more about using knobs and wood knobs in particular. I looked for wood knobs on-line, but they were often rather clunky looking. My husband shared an article in one of his magazines about making a more refined knob shape by returning some of those knobs. We started to talk about that or him turning the knobs. We talked about shapes and I sketched a profile that seemed like it would work. He turned some samples to help choose the size and home in on shape. The shape we settled on has a long enough base to allow comfortable finger room and a smooth curve to meet the head and the right slope to the back of the head so our fingers settle comfortably behind the head. Once we had one with the look and feel we wanted, he turned a lot more - about twice as many as we needed. Since they were hand turned, there was some variation in shape and the walnut pieces varied in color a bit. I sorted them into matched pairs and we used the best matches on the pairs of doors where the knobs are right next to each other in the wide cabinet and the credenza. We also put matched pairs on the left and right opening tall cabinets in case they are ever in a room where they are right next to each other. He used a brass insert on the knobs for the screw so they should last well to. He put the insert into each block before turning and used that to attach the block to the lathe so the knobs would be well centered on the screw.

thanks guys. I live in Ontario Canada. its just all this mumble jumble of lighting and plants is very complicated. when they say a plant needs low medium or high light... how does one define medium light accurately? I know most foliage plants u buy...dracaenas, pothos, ivy, philos, spaths, sans, zz, parlor palm, bamboo palm, dwarf scheffs, even coffee nana the list goes on with common indoor plants all need medium light. now ive been using a light meter on my cell phone walking around inside my living room at various spots away from windows like the interior of my living room where I wanna decorate with indoor plants the most rather then clutter my south-south west window sills of plants.. ive read on many websites if I go by foot-candles (which my phone light meter does) then medium light as a rule is approx. 75-150 ish foot-candles for more then a few hours daily...mind u early in the day and later in the day as the sun sets or rises one wont have 75-150 FC reading lol. but yea many of my spots in the interior of my room have readings from 75-150FC and as stated by many websites that's approx. medium light. even tho the interior locations in my apartment look dark to me..human eyes don't judge light good at all as we see different light then plants do.. even tho the interior locations look dark when I use my phones light meter I get readings of around 80-150 FC sometimes a lil higher! so im guessing if my light meter in a "dark" area still reads a higher FC like 80-150 ish reading I can go ahead and put a medium light plant there and save my hot blazing sunny window sills for amaryllis soon in stores, and my cacti, and my aloe, and my date palm seedlings and my lemon tree seedlings and my mango tree seedling im gonna start lol free plants r the best lol

“Given this, are the Marvins that much better to warrant spending up $3-4K? We live in NorCal, and the home is a few million $s” Am I understanding correctly that you are concerned with spending $3-4K more on windows for a home that costs several million dollars? P.S. both of those quotes sound low to me, but it’s hard to know without more details. You didn’t say how many windows those quotes were for, but it sounded like your entire house’s windows?

The Pella Lifestyle is a roll-form (instead of extruded) aluminum-clad wood window with a folding fin. I've never liked roll-form aluminum but it looks OK from a distance and I believe the joint of folding fins and the fragile stretchy webs at the corners should be carefully covered with flashing tape. Also Pella's inability to deliver what they promised in the window order is legendary so I stopped using them 30+ years ago and haven't heard anything to tempt me to reconsider. If you give us a budget per typical window delivered to the site and a type (casement, double-hung, etc.); an idea of what the house will look like and the climate, we might be able to suggest some appropriate windows. Andersen is spelled with an e and their wood window cladding is PVC. Its the only window with a properly sloped sill, siding slot and drip; the others need a field installed sub-sill but that provides a more traditional looking jamb to sill detail so I always do that. Marvin recently changed the name of the Integrity to Elevate.