Need more information to venture a guess. First: what SIZE (diameter) is the blue flexible conduit run from the main to the basement and does it run under the garage slab? Depending on the diameter you may not be able to run all conductors through it without derating each circuit circuit. This may not be practical or achievable. Size of conduit/raceway depends upon the number of current carrying conductors. If the conduit is run under the garage slab, your conductors would also have to be rated for use in a "wet" location. (All underground locations are considered 'wet') Second: Under what electrical code does your jurisdiction operate? If it is under the 2008 NEC, then EVERY circuit in a habitable room (except for those with GFCI protection) anywhere in the house would need AFCI breakers. This would mean AFCI breakers not only in bedrooms, but also for lighting in all locations considered habitable, and for all general purpose and lighting circuits in any other habitable room. (Dens, Rec rooms, offices, halls, closets,. etc) THIRD: What about hard wired, interconnected smoke detectors? Most codes require at least 1 in all basements, 1 in each bedroom and at least 1 immediately outside all bedroom areas. You didn't mention any in your 'outlet' calculations I don't think. LASTLY: What is your heat type? If electric, you need to factor in loads. ------------- Provide more information and perhaps someone can help.

In the main panel the neutral and ground of the 6/2 are connected to the neutral or ground bus. That's because the neutral and ground are bonded in the main panel. In the sub panel, the neutral goes to only the neutral bus, and the ground goes only to the ground lug. The neutral and ground are not bonded in the sub panel. If your sub panel comes with the bond between neutral and ground installed, remove the bond before installation.

It sounds like typical problems for a house this age. The panel ground should have been caught during the permit inspection when it was replaced, but maybe they were just careless. Splices inside the panel box should be allowed if done properly to extend wires. Improperly grounded outlets are very also common, but there are options for how to fix them. We bought a house about 4 years ago that had similar wiring issues. Most of the receptacles were grounded through the metal shielding on the 1940 vintage wiring, which is not considered an acceptable ground (FYI - the old metal cable looks like current BX cable, but is not the same). However, we only had seven circuits for the entire house, so it also needed a lot of additional wiring to be fully habitable. I can't really give you a cost estimate, since most of our changes were embedded in bigger projects. However, working on old houses is time-consuming, and that means you will pay quite a bit for electricians and other contractors. In many cases it will be cheaper to completely open up walls and fix everything, although I cringe at the thought of ripping out vintage plaster and moldings just because its easier and cheaper for the contractor. In most cases I did not try to ground the existing receptacles,but just added new 12 gauge wiring and receptacles wherever needed. I first had an electrician upgrade the panel to 200 amp, and treated the wiring of each floor a little differently (explained below). 2nd floor - We ran four 12/3 cables from the basement up to the attic, using the chase around the main plumbing stack as a path to the attic. One 12/3 cable was used as a 240 volt circuit for a new A/C air handler in the attic, number two was wired as a MWBC and used for the bath GFCI and a new bath heater/fan, number 3 was used to connect to A/C powered smoke detectors on the 2nd floor, and number 4 was wired as an MWBC to provide two 20 amp circuits to serve wall receptacles in the three bedrooms. 1st floor - I disconnected and stripped out all existing wiring I could see from the basement, and replaced it with new 12/2 to the panel. Its time consuming, but not really difficult if you have access from the basement. This grounded the receptacles on the 1st floor, but I had to leave some of the old cable in the walls that ran to the ceiling lights on the 1st floor. During our kitchen renovation the contractor opened up the walls and ran all new circuits for the kitchen, so that area was completely rewired. Basement - since all basement walls were open/unfinished, we replaced existing wiring with new 12/2 and added GFCI's where required for the laundry room and utility area. The new breaker panel, kitchen renovation and the basement wiring upgrades were permitted and everything passed without any issues. Bruce

I suggest you try a medical forum (perhaps one that deals with alternative facts). There's nothing we can do to help with your neuroses in an electrical forum. The PANEL is not going to be a source: 1. It's pretty well shielded. 2. It's a small radiating area. The issue is the wiring. These are almost always unshielded in most areas (type NM or the like) and they are long and provide a much bigger radiating area (especially necessary when you're talking something extremely low frequency like household current). Any electrician can tell you the coupling/radiation from a long wire is pretty easily detectible. Inside a panel (even with the cover off) not so much. So if you are really in a panic, use metal conduit or MC cabling.