There is also information available in the National Parks Service Preservation Briefs about windows and many other aspects of preservation. I never discouraged anyone from changing their windows if there are no guidelines in their district for doing that. Actually I think lots of good information has been provided here by homeowners who are not working in the preservation business and speak from personal experience in either keeping or replacing windows. My frustration comes from people who buy homes in our historic district because they love the charm the guidelines have maintained and then decide they need to change protected aspects. No one has forced them to choose to live here. Appropriate energy efficient windows are not inexpensive. Anyone living here may choose to have those windows. Most requests here are for inappropriate windows and cost is the argument given. Shortsightedness at the time of purchase is not a justification here. We all "LIVE" in our homes and I would like to belie the insinuation that those of us who choose to maintain the architecture, including windows, are living in a "museum". That may be your perspective, but it is not my experience. Oberon works in the window industry. He provides lots of useful information and his opinion is valued. Many of us who choose to practice preservation are responding from personal experience and the outcomes we have had. In my neighborhood, there are guidelines for preservation and it has been proven to increase property values in this historic district. There are larger studies with similar quantified results. Most homes are under contract in less than two weeks. Therefore, it seems Oberon and I each have positve financial reinforcment for our opinions. I will not deny that my decisions also have an aesthetic factor. For those of you expressing concern for the environment I need you to know that by living in town and being able to walk to most destinations means I use less than one tank of gas a month. I also do not have air conditioning. I open my energy inefficient windows when it is warm. Imagine how much energy that would conserve if everyone did that. My point is moot for many because it is not realistic that the majority of people can, or are willing, to do that. I have noticed that brownouts and blackouts occur more during hot summer months than at any other time of the year. Is air conditioning and that comfort level also a drain on power? I don't have figures for how many less power plants the elimination of air conditining would result in. But, brownouts would seem to suggest use during hot weather does strain those resources. If we are truly concerned about energy consumption we should all get new windows and eliminate, or restict, air conditioning. There will always be some compromise. Comfort level is very individual. Windows are only one source of lead paint in older homes. I'm sure I'll be corrected, but the greatest issue with lead and windows is in the areas where there is any rubbing that could produce dust from the paint. Flaking paint on any surface should be a concern and abated or encapsulated especially if you have, or plan to have, children. If lead paint is the only concern with windows, the rub areas can be stripped and therefore eliminate the dust caused by the friction of opening and closing windows. Or, new tracks can be installed and the weight pockets can be insulated at the same time. Booksat makes a good point in taking into consideration many energy consumption aspects of older homes. Energy audits have been suggested a number of times on this forum. Windows are one aspect of loss and there are many ways to increase R-values in homes and windows. Window Guy is also in the window industry. He is sensitive to the window needs of historic districts and energy efficiency. I hope he will join this discussion to explain that you can maintain both aspects. Solutions may require compromise, but they should not be viewed at an either/or decision based on emotion. Also, energy conservation is multifaceted in older homes and in general consumption practices. If you are truly concerned about energy please look at all aspects of personal consumption. I agree that this is a sometimes emotional discussion. People on this forum will tend to lean toward conservation. Many would not have purchased older homes or participate on this forum if they did not like the qualities those homes possess. You will find lots of information about replacement windows on the Window Forum. Oberon an others involved in the window industry also offer their advice about new windows on that forum. We all have our passions.

Millworkman, so u sell 98% Vinyl products to the commercial industries..that's great.. Sadly, you did attack me. Exclamation points are a sign of excitement or to show how strongly you feel about what you are saying. Like yelling at me in with your words not your voice. However, I wish I was talking to you face to face or over the phone, much more comfortable for me that way. Whatever,,it is what it is now... i gave too much information. All you need is the Product Code from the Energy Star Label (maybe the Licensee # too) and the websites to go on, ..there are not many people who would think to breaking down the information on the Energy Star Label as I did. I know soo much about Windows..."windows are not just windows" There are Standards that must be followed, paperwork to fill out explaining the test, name of the Lab that will do the testing, an IA to approve, for each unit that is tested, and $$$.$$ for each unit that is tested, if you are a member, you pay less than those who are not members.. The only reason I can think of for constantly attacking HOW I explained my situationand over the facts of the situation, was to distract the reader. People have a tendency to follow along, to be a part, to fit in...that's ok, my own fault for taking the chance. I should have listened to my inner voice that was totally afraid to do this at all..and not posted my situation. I have been trying to explain, since May..before the installation was complete, that these windows are not what I ordered, than find that they are no longer an active windows, they have been in the archives for ...when realizing they told me this much info, they were not willing to tell me how long or when the Energy Performance Ratings expired.... From whom I recieved this information, you can guarantee, is with out a doubt, solid as a ROCK, reliable source! Now don't go and focuses on the fact that I did not receive what I ordered. The fact is that THE ENERGY PROFORMANCE RATINGS, FOR EACH WINDOW, ARE IN THE ARCHIVES..THIS HAS EXPIRED. There really is an explanation date for windows... If you know how to find this out for yourself, do that. oberon476 has short sentences and paragraphs. Consider this as puzzle you downloaded. Have fun with it! We will call it "The Mystery of EPR for Marvin Windows" Find clues the clues in oberon476 biography...remeber, Have fun with it! Nassau Door & Window, E-Z Touch Home Improvement & Remodeling Inc., and Super Enterprises (they distribute Marvin Windows in Queens), .. **Oh, I have to add Marvin Family of Brands also, they told me they Manufactured and Mulled the 2-Wide and the Bay Window..These windows were dumped off on me because I paid in full, by check, on April 3, 2017 when I placed the order with NDW..**can I blame them for Windows from Marvin? Maybe if I put down $200.00 and gave the balance later? I don't know...I need a good set of testicles like you millworkman. 4 months of this...I can not explain the toll this has taken in my life..as this has been nothing but back and forth..as you all have done, not seeing the facts just the nonsense in between...I can not break this down any smaller than I have! I can not move forward. I am holding the family back from moving forward... **. reason for questioning

Sorry but 200 tilt are low grade garbage made to compete with the vinyl replacement market...... That is why they need sash locks, otherwise in a breeze the sashes would self tilt. Once you replace the entire unit including interior trim for the 200's which you wouldn't have to do with conversion kits there can't be but a couple of bucks difference. But the difference in quality is priceless. Good luck with the 200 tilts unless you have an excellent experienced installer you'll need it.

1st measure first, typically you want a whole number since it will be cheaper. measure at 3 points and go with narrowest measurement. If is measures over a whole number you will have to shim the jambs if it is measuring under, even an 1/8 you will need to order that window under sized or modify you jambs to accept a stock size. You need to make sure your windows are very square if using a window that can not be cut down. First thing to check is the distance between the stool and the blindstop, you need 3 3/8 spacing so the tracks can move freely and don't bind. I move the blindstop to get this spacing. Then check the the width of the jamb, shim it out if needed the full width of the jamb, I use 1/8 x3 3/8 shims cut from paneling. sometimes the jambs are tilted and need narrower shims behind the 3 3/8 shims. Next put the brackets on, they should be installed with nails or a specialty staple gun. Do not use screws since the heads will create pressure points. you may have to drill first so you do not break the jambs Then put jambliners in, make sure they are completely snapped in to the brackets. Then install the window, it push the lower sash down , if it goes down to hard it may have been shimmed to tightly, if it springs up on it's own it was not shimmed enough. Make sure when the sashes are closed that they make full contact with sill and the head of the jamb other wise they will leak air. I use windows that i can cut so they meet the jamb and sill.If cutting always start with bottom sash, if is out of square you will need to cut it at a compound angle, if it is square and needs to be cut for height only then cut the top of the upper sash. next make sure there is no movement up and down if there is shim behind the upper sash in the jamb with 1 3/8 shims till it is tight. I would recommend flash the wells and blinstops with aluminum coil since in finishes the look , andcovers hard to paint areas, and seals in the lead paint.