For the supply line I would run 1". Be aware that ex is great pipe, but at every joint you install a bushing. the 3/4" fitting is about 1/2" thru its center. Read that as pressure drop. The original plumber was (is) and idiot. If you can find him, be sure to tell him so. I would pose one mor question to you. Why leave the water heater where it is? Yes you can add the proposed 3/4" record pipe, but you will be better off if you can move the water heater closer tot he point of use. Then you do not require the record. Record is great, but a poorly controlled record system can cost you more in heat loss energy than it actually costs to heat your hot water. It might be time for a water heater upgrade too.

Other Considerations: . Trash & recycle pullout The trash/recycle pullout works best in the Prep Zone, near the Cooking Zone, and, if only one and possible, near the Cleanup Zone. Far more trash & recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up. So, if you have to choose, put the trash & recycle in the Prep Zone instead of the Cleanup Zone. [That's the biggest mistake I made, I put it in the Cleanup Zone across a 6' aisle from the Prep Zone...it's my biggest regret by far in my kitchen.] . . Prep sinks Prep sinks should be no smaller than 12" x 12" interior space...and bigger is better - I recommend no less than 15" in each direction, 18" would be better, IMHO. Anything smaller is not very useful for prepping. Those smaller sinks are often called "bar sinks" b/c they're really only big enough for filling a glass with water or dumping a glass. They're not big enough to clean veggies/fruit or empty a colander. . . Zone protection Strive to protect the Cooking Zone from traffic - both through-traffic as well as in-kitchen traffic. While cooking, you are dealing with very hot pots/pans/food and you don't want to be tripping over or dodging traffic, open DW doors, etc. This usually means putting the Cooking Zone in the most "secluded" area...but not always, it depends on the workflow in your design. . . Work/Landing Space Be sure you have adequate work and landing space near/around appliances and in zones. Sometimes skimping is required when it's a small kitchen. Prep Zone...36" continuous/clear countertop and next to a water source. Experience has shown that 42" to 48" is much, much better. Cooking Zone...See Cooktop/Range Cleanup Zone...See "Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink" Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink...A minimum of 24" of clear counterspace on one side of the sink, and 18" on the other side with the 24" at the same counter height as the sink. Sink - Prep... A minimum of 6" (18" is better) of clear counterspace on one side of the prep sink and 36" of clear prep workspace on the other side (again, 42" to 48" is much better). Refrigerator...A minimum of 15" of clear counterspace on the handle side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side or no more than 48" across from the refrigerator. If an oven is next to the refrigerator, the refrigerator should be the one placed next to counterspace. Ovens (Wall)...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space next to or above an oven if there it is on an aisle with through-traffic. If it's on an aisle with no through-traffic, then the 15" can be across from it. MW...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space above, below, or next to the MW. Counterspace if two zones/appliances are next to each other…Take the longest of the two and add 12". Cooktop/Range -- If the range/cooktop is against the wall, a minimum of 9" of counterspace b/w the wall (protected by flame retardant material) and the range/cooktop. (18" is better for elbow room) -- If the range/cooktop is on the end of a run that is open, a minimum of 18" of counterspace is needed for both emergency landing space and a safety zone/buffer b/w the range/cooktop and end of the counter. -- The other side of the range/cooktop should have a minimum of 24" for both emergency landing space and workspace. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with no seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 18" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 24" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- Note: For functionality, at least 24" on each side is better, regardless of location of cooktop/range. This space can be shared with the Prep Zone on one side; if it is, then there should be at least 48" (36" + 12") on the side shared with the Prep Zone. -- Check your local Code. Some local Codes are more restrictive. If not, stick to these recommendations.

My excellent handyman contractor made sure to upgrade my apartment's main electrical panel, which is located at the entrance to my kitchen, when we redid the kitchen. The apartment is 39 years old and he simply said that a newer one with more power was needed. Not something my KD thought of. I made sure to put 4 outlets in every cabinet that has electricity, e.g., the appliance garage and the cabinet where my network router now lives. My breakfast bar is where my phone is charged. I put one of these under it, on the outside of the pony wall. It has one USB outlet and one USB-C outlet, the new standard. Eliminates the need for something to plug the phone into. https://www.amazon.com/Top-Greener-TU21548AC-Receptacle-Interchangeable/dp/B01FREZ8VE When I bought my apartment 38 years ago, the kitchen had a clean lined white cabinets with black slate floors. People couldn't understand why I replaced it, because it still looked good. My new kitchen? Custom clean lined white cabinets with a grey printed black porcelain floor. Avoid trendy colors, like all the grey, beige neutrals around. Think about solutions that have become cliches - like subway tile. Yes, it is clean and inexpensive. But... waaay overdone. Be brave - get something simple in a shape or that is dimensional! When I was looking for handles I saw variations of the same modern handle everywhere, in every country. So I bought something different. Think about what might lock you into expensive solutions forever, like a counter depth refrigerator. Buy appliances in standard, common sizes so you can always find good quality replacements. Good luck!

@C. First of all, if you are 5'10" and have really bad back pain, then a 38" countertop height might still be too low for you. I'm barely 5'7" when when standing up as straight as I can, and a 38 3/4" countertop height is very comfortable for me. At 5'10", you could easily go up to a 40" countertop height. It is uncommon for kitchen designers to specify countertops much higher than 40" for anyone except a frequent kitchen user who is taller than 6 feet in order to retain the general usability for varying heights of potential users, but you may always do what you find best for yourself. I would encourage you to do a mockup of a 40" countertop height and try different tasks like chopping on a cutting board and stirring in mixing bowls to see how you like it. Remember that you should allow 1/2" for cabinetry leveling, so find your perfect height, and then subtract 1/2" (from the total of cabinetry plus countertop) when placing your order. The minimum possible front countertop ledge width is determined by factors which contribute to the risk of a break. I will guarantee you that ledge width in your picture is probably wider in person than it may appear here. Few fabricators will cut a continuous ledge (meaning without seams) less than 2 1/2" to 3" wide, and some fabricators will even burden you with a 4" or greater ledge, though that is excessive. The Galley issues guidelines for cutting the sink hole with no seams around the hole, but this technique complicates the handling and transport of the piece because that area is so delicate once it is cut. If I understand, correctly your countertop will only be 1/2" thick which may mean that you are using porcelain or something of that nature, and in that case, the substrate will dictate that you will need a seam for a narrow front ledge rather than having the sink cut from the middle. Porcelain is already fragile, and it won't survive the handling, transport, and installation with a pre-cut, narrow, continuous sink ledge. Be cautious of any fabricator who wants to install steel rods to help stabilize a front sink ledge. Those rods can get wet and swell and cause future breakage. The best policy is to avoid rod reinforcement. In terms of ergonomics, the height of your countertop and the height of your sink is relatively more important than how far forward you stand to the sink, but if you have really bad back pain and want to give your best effort to eliminating that in your kitchen, then an apron-front sink still needs to be on your list for consideration. I regularly operate within the full confines of the apron front which brings dishes and other tasks such as cleaning the sink very close to my body and allows me to stand mostly upright. It is the leaning forward at a sink that strains your back, and you will lose at least a hand width's advantage with a non-apron-front sink of your ability to work closer to your body to minimize leaning. For many people this is not an issue, and due to the fact that non-apron-front sinks are usually less expensive and more plentiful in terms of brands and styles, plus more aesthetically pleasing in many instances, the majority of kitchen remodelers are not using apron-fronts. Both Rachiele and Havens offer texturing for their stainless steel sinks, and if you look at their portfolios, you'll see that a hammered or otherwise textured finish is actually very pretty for an apron front sink. I have a textured finish, and it hides water spots and scratches and it looks as new today as it did several years ago when I had it installed. My only caution is that the interior of the sink should preferably be smooth to aid with cleaning. I believe that texturing can be applied only to the forward-facing and top ledge part of the apron front if you like that look. Spillage over the apron front is not a problem for me. Every now and then, I might get a small drip down the apron front, maybe after loading the dishwasher with something wet, but nothing more than you would sometimes get from a sink with a ledge that gets water on the front ledge and drips down occasionally. I would be hard pressed to say if I even have to wipe drips of water off the apron front even once per week. It just really is not a problem for me. It sounds like you are on the right track to helping with your ergonomics. As I mentioned earlier, your first step is to see if you can raise those countertops up to 40". If you do a lot of bread kneading or something where you need your arms straight down, you might consider doing dual levels somewhere in the kitchen. Generally, 41" to 42" is the upper stretch of a modified countertop height, and that would be for someone taller than 6 feet. The reason that we don't like to raise the countertop much more than that is because then they become unusable for people who are shorter. However, at a height of 5'10" with back problems, 40" is not at all out of reason. Be aware that if you wear shoes with thick soles when you are working in the kitchen or if you intend to put down a comfort mat on the floor that has substantial thickness, those factors could alter how you feel about your cabinetry height. Mocking up a height and doing various tasks is the most reliable way to determine what is best for you.