LindaC, you and Maci, she loves it raw with ranch too, calls it "basspagrass". I'd rather cook mine.... Kate, I live one county away from the "Asparagus Capital", Oceana County, Michigan, so we can definitely grow asparagus. It doesn't take that much room and will produce for about 20 years or so, so I'm looking forward to a LOT of asparagus. Petalique, I have 200 crowns, and some of the crowns put up 12-15 spears last year, so if we have a good year.... JohnLiu, your poor lettuce. I know it's cold hardy, so it stays alive, but the poor little things can't grow with no warm ground. I keep telling myself to hold off, things won't grow until the ground warms up, even if it's not freezing. (sigh) It's hard to wait. Dcarch, Elery would like to build a greenhouse/solarium on the East side of the entryway, so I could just grow things all winter. I'd like that, but first I have to replace the front wall of the barn foundation, that 100+ year old stone foundation is finally giving up. Bragu, I haven't found a single morel yet. It's supposed to rain for the next two days, then be in the 60s, that should help them pop up. Asparagus and morel quiche, maybe... chloebud, you just said it all. And I had some for dinner tonight. I'll be picking a lot by this weekend, I think, if the weatherman doesn't lie to me again. Annie

Also live in northern Ca....Lots of pond experience...several of your conditions dont work well if you ever really use it for dipping...curvature to sides and bottom...are the least convenient..for falling or slipping....and the surrounding rough stone border...sort of an accident waiting to happen.....rubber liners will need folds..and are too slippery of course...and chlorine the least desirable tho’ there are other available products...keeping a fountain is the best feature as it keeps the water circulating allowing less scum to develop....lastly...we and several of our friends have very similar situations...some intended to use pond for dipping but it was rarely used except by children ...and the rough stone edge always made that scary...will attach pic of our pond that we enjoy for just the sound of the water...the added humidity to the air..and before we fenced ...the wild life loved drinking from

Kelley Technical Coatings makes a deck paint called Patio Tones. Multiple colors, water based, non-skid finish and easy to apply.

OK. This is not a water chemistry issue, Sounds like your diligent in the chemistry management. You're one of the few!! When we set our plumbing either in the spa or the pool, we have to support the pipe by tying it to a piece of rebar. The pipes are stubbed out beyond the shotcrete. After the shot, the crew will carve out around the pipes to allow for access to the pipe to cut them back prior to plastering. I'll post a pic of a recent build during construction to see the stubbed pipes. Most times we have to chip a bit more to allow the wall fitting to sit back far enough to finish flush with the plaster. Sometimes the supporting piece of rebar interferes and we will cut it out. The pipe is cut back and the wall fitting is set. Everything is pre-measured to ensure the fitting when glued is fully seated and ends flush for plaster. Setting the wall fittings should be the PB's responsibility. Not the plaster contractor. Perhaps in your case the rebar was exposed, the pipes were cut back too far, not extended and the plaster contractor set the wall fittings flush as they were plastering. So now the wall fitting is not glued to the stub and the space in between has the rebar exposed resulting in rust. It will never stop. Chipping out the wall would be a great undertaking and any plaster patching would be noticeable. I don't have eyes on these wall fittings, but perhaps cleaning up the affected areas, allow to dry, reach into the fittings and rough the plastic surface with some emery cloth. A long, narrow wire brush attachment may work well. Wipe it clean and apply some GE Silicone where there is a gap. This may be tricky if it's in deep. A long flat applicator of some sort will help. Apply enough to fill the gap but not too much interfere with the jet function. Allow 24 hrs to set. This won't be a permanent fix, but it should stop the rusting issues.