Some of these I've seen before, but I LOVE the chair planter! Such great colors! And your tinman is awesome...I've got all of my cans together, I just need to make him. How did you connect your cans??

Does this wreath sound like the one your looking for.. How to Make a Candy Wreath First, buy your candy. You need to use wrapped candy like Tootsie Rolls, Jolly Ranchers, peppermints, bubble gum, butterscotch candies, etc. How much candy you need depends on the size of wreath you make. Usually for a 12 to 15 inch wreath, I buy enough candy to fill a large mixing bowl to the top. I make mine with lots of mixed candy but you can make it with all peppermints, all green and red Jolly Ranchers, or whatever you like. Whatever you decide, first place it all into a large mixing bowl. Cut string into about 3 inch pieces. The lengths don't have to be exact. Just make them long enough so that they are easy to handle while you tie them around the ends of the candy and then to the ring for the wreath. You need one string for each piece of candy. I don't sit and count how many I need. I just cut a pile and then make more when I need them. Take a heavy wire clothes hanger and form it into the size wreath you would like. Cut off the hook part at the top then slightly bend the 2 ends to form small hooks that you can hook together to make a circle. I haven't checked lately but you might be able to buy a metal circle in the wreath section at your craft store. After you have made your ring, tie each string to one end of a piece of candy. This is why candy like Toostie Rolls work so well. The little flags of paper on each end make it easy to tie the string to them. Then tie the other end to the wreath ring. Keep pushing the candy together as you go so you have a nice full ring of candy. When you can't squeeze one more piece of candy onto the wreath, make or buy a large red bow to place at the top, which will cover the section where you hooked it together. Tie one end of a ribbon or string to a child's pair of scissors and then tie the other end to the bottom of the wreath. This pair of scissors is for people to use to cut their own candy.

Hello everyone Hi Oddie! Gosh its been a long time since I have posted here I just dropped by and saw this post! Oddie I just made some of those cute favors..I love to go to that blog! I love all her all her ideas! Here are my favors..I found some cute pixy stixs and used them to make some flowers Enjoy!

GREAT QUESTION and one I am sure is of interest to all. In the plumbing, pipe fitting and HVAC industries originaly the only pipe available was iron pipe. When comparing the volume of pipe sizes we must use a formula that considers the cross sectional area rather than the diameter thus each increase in pipe size approximately doubles the volume. The actual formula for comparison is: Large Diameter Squared divided by the Small Diameter Squared . Example 3/4" compared to 1/2" = (.75x.75)/(.5x.5) = .5625/.25= 2.25 From this we can see that a 3/4" pipe has 2.25 times the volume of a 1/2" pipe. Another basic rule of thumb, if you double the diameter you increase the volume by four times. Understanding that all pipe layout formulas were originally developed for iron pipe it then stands that as new materials became available they were manufactured in sizes that approximated their iron pipe equivalent thus we see copper, PVC, or CPVC listed in "Nominal" sizes. This means a 1/2" nominal copper pipe will be slightly different in size but for all intents and purposes it would meet the volume requirements of a 1/2" iron pipe thus we see the other piping materials listed in the same size variations as iron pipe. While we common think of the word "Schedule" as meaning a time table of events, properly the word Schedule means "A table" thus in the piping specifications each size of pipe is listed in a table of specifications and the number or letter indicates which table applies to the product in question thus we see iron pipe,PVC or CPVC pipe listed as Sched. 20, Sched.40, sched.80 etc. Rather than use the schedule numbers copper pipe is defined by a Letter indicating which table of specifictions apply. While the specifications are listed alphabetically Copper pipe is classified as Heavy Wall, Standard or Medium Wall, and Light wall. It was merely by co-incidence that copper pipe designations seem to be backwards: Example 1/2" Nominal Copper Pipe: TYPE k - Heavy Wall OD 0.625 ID 0.527 Wall thicknes .049 TYPE L - Medium Wall 0.625 0.545 .040 TYPE M - Light Wall. 0.625 0.569 .028 As you can see, even though the Type K heavy wall pipe has the thickest wall the ID of the pipe still remains slightly larger than its fractional designation but for the purposes of standardization all three types have the same OD so the fittings are interchangeable. Copper pipe is manufactured in two varieties. The 10ft long lengths of rigid copper pipe that we are most familiar with is properly called "Hard Drawn Copper Pipe". They also make 60' or 100' rolls of "Annealed Copper Pipe" and we must be very careful not to confuse Annealed Copper role pipe with Copper tubing which is made to an entirely different sizing standard. (Copper tubing is made to the ASTM-CTS standard--CTS =Copper Tubing Standard). FYI-While CPVC is manufactured to Pipe Standards the CPVC pipe that we commonly see in the hardware stores is also made to the CTS standard rather than Pipe standards. Primarily copper fittings are made in the hard drawn copper standard however there are copper fittings such as you describe which appear to have been cast rather than drawn or formed from copper pipe. These fittings are properly called "Wrought Copper fittings." Under the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) whenever copper pipe is run under a slab within the confines of a structure we must use wrought copper fittings and all joints must be brazed rather than soldered. Under both the International Residential Code and the Uniform Plumbing Code all three types of copper, K,L & M may be used for both Supply (the water line from a well or municipal main to the structure) and Distribution (Lines within a structure.) however the IRC only permits type M inside a structure if it is above ground. Type K-Heavy wall copper pipe can be obtained through most home supplies or hardware stores by special order or you can but it from a Plumbing or Heating Supply house but as a rule it is only used for applications that involve pressures or temperatures that exceed the allowable limits in general plumbing use. We commonly use type K roll pipe for direct burial supply lines but the use of type K in general plumbing within a structure would be considered serious overkill. While type L (med.wall) copper is considered the industry standard today in years past type M (thin wall) was considered the standard for residential service and type L was primarily used in commercial applications thus the overwhelming majority of residential structures that have copper pipe have type M thinwall pipe and even that has proven to provide 50+ yrs of service when properly sized and installed correctly. It is true that under some rare conditions copper pipe does exhibit wear in the form of pin holes, but in the final analysis it can also be said that those problems are directly attributed to water quality or in many cases improperly sized pipe which resulted in excessive velocity of flow. Copper pipe will exhibit internal wall erosion if the velocity of flow exceeds 10feet per second and it is for that reason that the codes now define a Fixture Unit method of determining proper pipe size. In regards to water quality. If you live in a region that has water quality issues that are detrimental to copper pipe, I must then wonder what those issues are doing to your general health as well. In my personal opinion rather than worry about finding a pipe that will tolerate those problems I think the homeowner and his or her family would be much better served to consider installing a water treatment system to correct the problem.