When antique furniture could use just a little something to spruce it up, I use Old English. It comes in two colors, light and dark. Another thing I like is Miracle Finish, when the furniture could use alot more then just spruceing up. It makes the furniture look its very best without having to strip it. Miracle Finish comes in 3 colors, for multitude of woods. The only place I know to purchase, is QVC.com. Good luck with your project. SB

The original finish is almost certainly lacquer for this period unless someone has refinished it in their basement. Lacquer has the property of re-melting itself and becoming a single film finish. First clean it (see the link below). For the chairs, I'd recommend getting some aerosol lacquer. Deft is a commonly available brand. For the table top, it's a bit difficult to get an even finish with aerosols. Deft, though, also makes a brushing lacquer that you can brush on a light coat or two. I'd also scuff sand it a bit first to even out the wear areas. Just enough to dull the surface. The only possible problem with this procedure is if the original owner used Pledge (or any polish containing silicone oil) on the piece. It messes up the surface tension of the finishes applied over it and causes them to fish-eye. There are cures for this, but I'm not aware they are DIY level. If you have spray equipment, you could also get canned lacquer. But I'm assuming if you have this equipment, you probably wouldn't ask this question. (An observation, not a criticism) Here is a link that might be useful: saving the finish.

ok,,so lets start w/the kitchen. well, paint colors actually. it's ok to do different colors in other rooms,,,if you can see both rooms, slightly, then either do the same or do similar coordinating tones. The rest of the advice is if you plan on keeping what's there. If you're going to rip it out and get a new kitchen in a year, then live w/it if you can. If this is all you can do for many years, then see if the changes, below, are something you can do. if you plan on keeping all of that wood trim (if it was me, I'd prob paint every thing except the beams on the ceiling, and maybe the trim going up the staircase. In the kitchen you have so many dark and heavy elements, I feel you need to lighten it up. I can live w/the black tile, for now, but that brick? hell no. that has to get painted. You can paint the brick on the island, or, I'd cover it up w/panels/trim and paint it a soft charcoal to match the floor (or whatever color you like) Grab some thin wood or mdf panels from HD or lowes and cut to fit the 3 sides. Use construction adhesive to adhere to bricks (or get some masonry screws and screw them in) then get some 1x2 primed trim pieces and secure all around the borders..like so if you want a bit fancy, do the stiles along the back (above,,the vertical pieces) otherwise, just do it like pictured below. see how nice and clean looking it is? More ideas, search "trimming out kitchen island". you could try doing it in this color or if you feel like you want to have a painting party, do all of the cabinets in one, two or all four as they've outlined. This combo would look great w/your flooring. you kitchen ceiling needs to be skim coated and smooth out. or, have it retextured, primed and painted in a flat bright white. if you will be getting some retro fit recessed lights (Costco LED's,,,great price) then wait until the holes are done for those. Minimum of six 6" cans (8 would be better) , and two spots for pendants over the island. BTW, replacing the top on the island is a piece of cake. either check a granite fabricator yard for a remnant piece (you have a slender top so it should be easy to find) or look on craigslist for a remnant or even an entire island, or get an inexpensive butcher block and cut it yourself to fit. Whatever you get, leave an extra couple inches off the back end for an overhang. you could do a few more inches. The brick around your oven? paint it. white, black, gray, pick one. use a satin paint for that. clean and scrub that brick very well before you PRIME it (if using a dark paint, prime it with a gray primer. white for white,,,but don't skip the priming part) as for baseboards, if they're all small and short, pull them and replace w/these. Any questions? and yes, if you have the budget, call in a designer to help you out with what needs to be done, what should be done, etc.

"...Mr. Virgil, are there any in-house tornado safe options for a pier and beam foundation? Can part of the foundation be pier and beam, and then a slab for the tornado rooms and maybe other non-plumbing rooms? Or should I just install a prefab in-ground shelter, and throw Grandma down the hole, whenever twisters come through? (My mom would laugh, I promise!)..." As a junior and senior high schooler I grew up sitting on the steps of our neighbor's in-ground shelter, watching the clouds and funnels skip overhead. Never thought too much about it. To your question: I'm not sure what sort of a pier and beam foundation you are talking about, but if there's a reinforced concrete slab as part of any sort of foundation, it's very simple to design a reinforced concrete "storm closet" to sit on and tie into the concrete slab. Any architect or engineer will know what to do. And you'll make Grandma happy...!