We just got a Bosch SGE63E15UC dishwasher, purchased from and installed by Sears. This is the ADA-compliant model, which we needed to fit the cutout in our kitchen. There is a very loud and annoying click/pop sound when the door is closed and latched. It might seem nitpicking, but it's so loud and abrupt that it makes us wonder if it's supposed to be that way, or if our unit is defective. The sound is sort of amplified by the hollow-feeling handle. It's not exactly like a gunshot, but it's enough to startle you the first time you hear it. Think of popping the cork on a bottle of champagne, or popping a balloon. We weren't able to find this dishwasher at any store, so we haven't been able to compare ours with a floor model to see if it makes the same sound. Does anyone else have this dishwasher, and if so, does it make the same sound? I believe this is a very recent model; does anyone know if this is typical of recent Bosch models? We're also a little confused about the Child Lock feature. It isn't documented in the manual at all. After several calls to Bosch, we were able to find out how to turn it on and off (press and hold the "Heavy" button once the wash cycle is started), but we're not clear on what exactly it does - does it prevent the door from being opened, or lock out some or all of the controls? Any info/advice greatly appreciated, Mark

Thank you all for the encouragement! arlosmom: If I do CP it will be frameless and I might even go for frameless in the Brookhaven if I go that way. But, on the advice of palimpsest I think I should increase the size of the cab to left of range to 12". palimpsest: Thanks for your great observations and suggestions. Yes, the fridge is being reused and I really like it where it is. Want the pantry cabinet in the kitchen for storage too. What a great idea about a period lighting grid of fixtures! I think I could do a grid of 4 small fixtures with nothing in the center. I will have to sacrifice the current one which is fairly new but perhaps ebay... You have all made me feel better about the laminate and my plan in general. If I can possible do CP cabinets (which I am not certain I can yet) then that will be it for the budget and I will have to keep everything else at bay! I am wondering now if I can convince my contractor to find low formaldehyde particle board for the laminate counter top. I am going to trouble for that for the cabinets and the next problem is to find that for the countertop.

Gosh, thanks!! I was so focused on the 36" versus 2 18" cabinets I wasn't focusing on the function of the dishwasher. After reading all the opinions, I'm going to leave the DW on the fridge side. The real clincher was the visual of me taking a hot casserole out of the oven, turning around and falling over the open door like a scene in a sitcom. The fridge is a french door. I gave a lot of thought to how I clean up. Before I start cleaning up I pack up the leftovers and stick them all next to the fridge till I'm done cleaning and they've cooled down some. Then I open the fridge and stick them all in at once. So I don't think there'll be much of a conflict between fridge and DW. The trash is going under the sink on the opposite side of the DW, so putting the DW closer to the fridge puts the trash closer to the stove and I like that. It'll be on a pullout with a magnet and pulley system so I can bump it with my knee and it pops out. I never think of opening the door BEFORE I put both hands inside a chicken. The pantry is ginormous because it's a half hour to the nearest store, also we grow and can all our meat and most of our vegetables. I need to store a lot of weird, large things like canners, a grain mill and a cheese press, and all the accompanying accessories. I want to have them close but not sitting on the countertops. I like the swinging door idea, or a pocket door maybe. Thanks for the tips on clearances around the range and fridge. I'm planning on 3 inches on each side of the range plus a couple added to that end cab. Also, making sure the pantry wall and counter leave the fridge doors able to completely swing open. Instead of paying for a counter depth fridge we're just bumping out a niche behind it by a few inches. I'd like to extend the island to the left and out, but I'm concerned about not having enough room for traffic around it. We've got the exterior walls up now and as I stand in the dining room space it seems incredibly tiny. I'm afraid I've made the whole thing too small and if I extend the kitchen any further it's going to be awkward in regards to the traffic pattern around it. What do you think? From kitchen for KF The dashed "walls" are invisible, they're just there to be able to measure the rooms. I hope when the interior walls and floor are in I'll be able to judge it better because - eek, it seems so SMALL. Framers are coming tomorrow. I agree about extending the counter outward by a few inches. I would worry more about knocking stuff off a pony wall than pushing it off a single level counter. I think. I sure hope I have enough room to do that. Right now it feels like I can stand in the dining room and reach out and touch both sides. Plates and silver will be next to stove so I can plate at the stove or helpers can set the table without coming fully into the kitchen. Glasses will go next to fridge which is again planned so they can help themselves without getting underfoot. I can't thank you enough for all the help. I couldn't do this without you. THANKS!!!

A Certificate of Occupancy is granted by the city when the builder has met all of their requirements. You will not be involved in that process. Definitely ask for a key if you want it but don't be surprised if the builder wants to be sure nothing gets scratched or a window or door doesn't get left open at this late date. Don't let anyone rush you; say you need more time if you feel rushed. They signed a contract saying they would deliver a completely finished and working house so make them meet that obligation. Turn everything on and look in every corner, check every switch, door & knob and sight along every wall with a strong LED flashlight. Bring someone along to take notes. I don't know how to schedule a private home inspector; you need to ask the builder about that. I'm an architect and a builder would expect me to have inspected the house every few weeks especially before things were covered up. At this stage all you can discover are poor finishes or things that don't work and your contractor should have already found them. Remember, signing off on the house does not in any way relieve the contractor of his responsibility for building to the requirements of the contract documents. Don't sign anything that says otherwise. A walk-through should only be a courtesy.