Exterior brick what do? I really could use some thoughts..

9 years ago

We have done an enormous amount of work to our 1913 home that was left in quite a state 3 years ago. I am really torn however,as to what to do with the porches. You cannot tell from the pictures but the balconies are near collapse and must be addressed. I have had numerous masons inform me that because of all the weight and the fact they are on wood supports,that they are not a good idea and not worth redoing.While part of me absolutely hates the idea of changing the original structure, the other part says invest in something smarter and potentially just as beautiful looking. We still have tons of tuckpointing etc. and that is very costly. I am looking for a( or a few) fresh perspective on this,as I am near beside myself trying to decide!! Thanks so much!

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Comments (10)

Annie Deighnaugh
9 years ago
What a wonderful home! What a huge project!

I'd suggest cross posting on the "building a home" forum as there are good architects who hang out there and will have some suggestions for you.

This post was edited by AnnieDeighnaugh on Wed, Jul 16, 14 at 20:48
teacats
9 years ago
Have them re-done and made safe -- and take the opportunity to move the current position of the front stairs to create a graceful entry ....
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Stephanie, first thing, don't get frustrated or give up. I lost nearly half the roses I planted the first year. Sometimes it's nothing you do, it's the plant. You didn't specify if you had potted or bare root roses. Or where you bought them. If you bought bare root in bags in Home Depot or Costo, then forget it, it's the roses, not you. They are notoriously bad news. I succumbed this year and bought two and they are goners already. These usually come with canker already so they are pretty much DOA when you buy them. If they were bare roots from a reputable vendor, then soaking will help tremendously. Also keeping the newly planted rose well watered and misting the canes helps as well. I don't mound my roses, because I'm in a warmer zone, but some people say it helps. Also, some sun protection may help if they are in all full sun. Basically a bare root rose is asleep and then gets shocked to life by being thawed out, shipped across the country, then plunked into the ground and has hot sun beating on it all day long. That doesn't sound like fun to me! So they are usually slow to start and some don't make it. That's why I like to soak them in a bucket for at least a week. They can wake up in nice warm water (in the shade) and many of them 'break dormancy' and begin to leaf out in the bucket. That means when they are planted, they are somewhat awake and have a lot of moisture in their canes to hopefully help them make it through the first few weeks while they are building their root system in their new home. Roses are hardy, brand new roses need some babying.
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I have the same problem, and solved it in a way that might be helpful to you. The local high school has a vocational ag program, and part of it is teaching kids to be landscape contractors. I talked to the teacher and he gave me some names of kids in the program he felt were able and responsible enough to do the job. I have a burly teenager coming over saturday to dig up overgrown shrubs, do heavy pruning, and to dig and divide perennials like miscanthus that are to much for me to do myself. He has been trained already to do this and is much cheaper than hiring someone from a local landscaper, which was what I would have had to do. If your local high school doesnt have a program, perhaps the local junior college would. Sue (ps I'm in Davis so you wouldn't be able to use the same source as I)
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Sorry you're having such a rough time. Sounds like you're using all the right tools. Are you sure the brush marks were not there when you started the project? Sometimes when I paint I think I've done something to cause an imperfection, then realize it was there all the time and I just painted another layer over it. Here's a little tip that helped me. When you dip the roller in the paint, you always end up with the ends of the roller overloaded with paint compared to the middle. When you go to the wall, hold the roller at an angle and roll those overloaded edges on the wall first (do one side of the roller, then the other). You'll get two heavy streaks of paint there, but then you've cleared off the overloaded ends and the paint will be evenly distributed along the length of your roller. Then immediately roll over those heavy streaks with your N or W pattern and blend in. A building contractor taught me this trick and since doing that, I don't get roller lines. Also, be sure you do 2 x 2' sections at a time and roll very lightly. Don't try to "squeeze" paint out of the roller by pressing hard. If your wall has a lot of imperfections, using a flat paint helps hide them compared to a satin, eggshell or gloss finish. But if you want the paint to be scrubbable, then opt for an eggshell. Also, it's my understanding that if you use a roller with a thicker nap, it will create more stipple which also helps hide imperfections. I did that in a bathroom where I had removed wallpaper and had a really hard time getting the surface smooth because of all the paste and some of the wallboard came off with the paper. Good luck.
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@Stephanie, 9b inland SoCal I agree with you about the MG Moisture Control Potting Soil. I have used it exclusively for MANY years. I planted MANY hanging baskets and pots to sell at the nursery at the beach and for clients in Pacific Palisades, the San Fernando and Santa Clarita Valleys. It's all I have used for my own potted roses and the only media I have used to raise rose seedlings in for YEARS. It has all been because it doesn't dry out quickly; prevents over watering; doesn't cake on the surface, preventing water from penetrating; and hasn't broken down quickly like most potting soils I have experimented with have. Everything now is potted and MG Moisture Control is still all I use. It gets expensive to buy but it lasts so long and everything grows so well in it, I probably save money in the long run.
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User
9 years ago
I love the porches! Removing them would throw your house into no man's land, stylistically. I'd shore them up and keep on tuck pointing.
jmc01
9 years ago
As another old home owner with a brick porch that needed structural work, I would NEVER rely on a mason for structural advice.

Call a structural engineer and learn what would be needed to do repairs properly, with a goal of keeping the porches. 5 Helical anchors worked for us and once they were in, removing, cleaning and relaying the brick was our solution, plus new decking scraping/painting the wood trim.

You are in zone 5, as am I, where frost line questions come into play. Regrading parts of your yard might also be required.

Your home will look very odd without the porches. You posted on this a couple of years ago, didn't you?
DLM2000-GW
9 years ago
I remember this house, too. Please don't remove the porches - for all the reasons mentioned above. They make the house. Listen to jmc01 - good advice.
snagd
Original Author
9 years ago
My concern is the balconies not the porches,I would never remove them alltogether. Do you have brick balconies jmc01?
mclarke
9 years ago
Ditto to jmc's advice. Call a structural engineer. Remember, contractors of any sort always have an ulterior motive... ("hire me!" "hire me!")

But seriously. Fight to keep those porches. They are wonderful.
awm03
9 years ago
Yes, definitely a structural engineer or an architect with engineering experience.

Beautiful house. Did you choose the gray/beige color for the gable? It's very nice with your pretty brick.
Fori
9 years ago
That style porch isn't uncommon (in some places and times) so there must be a ay to save them. Have you asked the people at the Old House forum? It would be sad to lose those balconies!

Here is a link that might be useful: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/oldhouse/
jmc01
9 years ago
We have had 2 brick homes with structural problems. 1905 and 1919. Our current home has a flat roof addition. So, yes, an open area 12 ft above the ground.

I live old homes. I would consult a structural engineer - not a mason yet, not a contractor. We learned our options from him. Knowledge is power. My advice today is pretty much what it was when you posted before. Your balconies and lower porches are part of the same structure...one that looks like it is sloping downhill on the left, just like 2012's picture.

And, yes, I know what structural work costs. But in my experience, it's the best alternative.

Here is a link that might be useful: Snagd's 2012 post

This post was edited by jmc01 on Thu, Jul 17, 14 at 20:00

Exterior brick what do? I really could use some thoughts..

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Annie Deighnaugh

teacats

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Exterior brick what do? I really could use some thoughts..

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