I used BM Aura on some woodwork in my bedrooms and it is ok and has decent handling properties. Doesn't seem to have that sticky feeling that latex has on woodwork in some weather.

(Still a fan of BM oilbase despite the yellowing and big fan of Fine Paints of Europe oil despite the price. I think the FPE is tricky to apply as a non-pro)

Thanks for chiming in, palimpsest. Just did some searches on FPE and people seem to really love it. The price wouldn't bother me so much if it turned out well. I am definitely a non-pro. I have painted alot over the years but primarily walls in latex. I did check that there was one retailer in MN but it isn't a paint store. It is a flooring store and they don't even say that they sell paint. Kinda wacky but I will give them a call today. Do you know the name of a nice FPE white?

Also, on the BM oilbase which one do you like? Aura, too? You got me re-thinking my oil vs latex.

Thanks again.

The Aura is acrylic latex.

The BM Oilbase I have used is Satin Impervo. It does yellow (I believe it says this right on the can) and it does flatten--the sheen is reduced over time to get more satiny than it looks for a while.

The Fine Paints of Europe, so my painters tell me, does not yellow (I can't tell, yet), feels like glass on the woodwork, and one can, if handled properly, goes a long way. IMO you have to be a really good painter to handle it. I had to do one doorframe and a couple other things and if you inspect it, there is a difference between my work and theirs.

One can painted five doors and associated trim, and an entire wall of wood paneling 8x10, and a bathroom vanity with a fair amount to spare and I wasted a lot when I did my bits and pieces. The can is smaller than a gallon.

They can mix any color in the Pantone catalog and they can match BM colors too

You could order the FPE Inspirational Whites fandeck and get a coupon that covers the cost, should you decide to buy FPE.

Ben Moore is coming out with a new waterborne alkyd that is supposedly the bees knees. We'll see...

Here is a link that might be useful: Not sure if it will be available when you're ready to paint.

Cabinet Coat.

IMO you have to be a really good painter to handle it. I had to do one doorframe and a couple other things and if you inspect it, there is a difference between my work and theirs.

OK, palimpsest. I have to ask to to help me determine if I should go for the expensive FPE: On a scale of 1 to 10, I, palimpsest, rate my self as a ....... DIY painter. Also, I did talk to the MN distributor (who was very helpful) and also confirmed that they can match BM colors. It would be nice to match the BM Dove White (or White Dove) on the first level.

Hi Amy, that BM paint does sound like the bees knees! Anything that says "self leveling" sounds so magical and exactly what I want to hear. But I do want to start painting this weekend. Maybe I should call Ben and see if he is in need of some advanced testers. (I would do it for a fair price.)

funcolors, it is funny you bring up Cabinet Coat. I always think of Cabinet Coat for painting over existing cabinets. I will have to do some more research.

Thank you all for your input!

This is what moonshadow did with the stuff - amazingly gorgeous and the price -- THE PRICE -- it's a great value if that's important to you/the project. :) If I remember right, her color choice was CC's 'stock white'.

That Cabinet Coat looks great.

I would not recommend the FPE for someone who does not do a fair amount of painting. I am a decent painter (a lot better than some of the "painters" who do it for a living around here)...BUT, nothing compared to the painters I use who handle the FPE. They are slumming when they paint for me, and although I did a small amount of work myself, I thought about begging them to come finish it.

For a non-professional, I've painted lots of woodwork and cabinets using latex paints...and for a year now have been using the Behr premium line with built-in primer and have been happy with it on new wood (still sand after the first coat) and over oil/alkyd paints (it sticks as promised, even for scrubbing once cured). When I initially used it- I thought it was a hot mess...but then it sets-up during drying and brush strokes melt away after two hours (don't think it's self-leveling, but maybe it is?); for the semi-gloss anyway, the kitchen island that I smooth rolled and brushed- is really indistinguishable from the professionally sprayed latex on the other cabinets.
Kitchenkelly, sounds like you have paint experience, but for others that may find this thread when looking for input before tackling their trim painting, I'll add this...

I'm a good painter- have good hand eye, can be methodical, and have had years of practice. Yet, at my DIY level, a brand of paint is insignificant to my outcome compared to my care and PATIENCE for the work. What happens between the can and the wood is the bulk of the determination. 'Use a good brush' is standard good advice, and I also suggest that DIYers replace their brushes as they work. A novice unrefined painting technique for loading the paint and enthusiastic brush strokes cause the bristles to break-down from the tip back and makes havoc for how the paint spreads and the finish- then the paint will often mistakenly get the blame. Buy a couple or more $12 brushes- to avoid using tired brushes for your top coats.
Latex formulas are so improved that, for the novice, unless there is a specific need for alkyd/oil- it's hard to justify the hassle of it when the average DIYer will get a better finish and fine performance using the current latex paints.
The biggest draw-back of latex for me, is that even though it will dry to the touch faster and you can second coat the same day, latex actually takes longer to cure; thus, paint-to-paint surfaces (doors) should be left open for, well, I do 3 days in this humid climate- to avoid the smacky sounding stick. Oil will dry to the touch slower- thus the over night wait before the next coat, but will cure in half the time. -last time I read up on this, anyway.

*Plan on a lot of takeout- woodwork painting is time consuming *sufficient prep- sanding and cleaning make ALL the difference *resist the urge to 2nd coat too soon- this results in that smacky-sound stick on doors because the under-layer never fully dries and makes for a duller softer finish. Patience Grasshopper. hth

***Update***

Painting interior trim sucks. Prepping (especially filling nail holes and sanding) and taping sucks a gazillion times more.

OK, back to work.

All while those windows with grids are so beautiful to look at in pictures they are a pain in the butt to tape.

I will be posting finished photos in about three months :(

kitchenkelly - I can totally relate on the DIY aspect of painting a gazillion feet of trim. We just finished all of our trim - baseboards, molding, door and window casing, etc. and I was so worried that my die-hard DIY husband would want to do all the painting himself.

Luckily, even he decided not to tackle that job and we're waiting for a painter to show up in an hour to give us a quote. DH will just have to work overtime and we'll eat mac n' cheese for awhile to pay for it!

Good for you juddgirl2 for hiring it out. I may decide to have the doors sprayed. I am going to try another one tomorrow and see how it goes. Maybe my dogs can get jobs as Lassie extras.

You know it is bad when you decide to scrape popcorn ceilings instead of painting woodwork. (Which I did all week.)

Sounds like this is a moot point now, but I just wanted to say that if I could afford it, I'd use FPE eco satin for all the trim in my house. I painted an entire L-shaped banquette in our kitchen using FPE Eco Satin and it was a dream to work with once I got the hang of not overworking it. I've had several people look at the banquette and be shocked that it was not professionally painted.

Since financially it's not really an option for me to paint all the woodwork in my house with FPE, I've been using Aura for most of my trim and find that satisfactory as well.

Hi wi-sailorgirl, I went back and forth on the FPE. Maybe if I run out of the can of BM I have I will switch over. I do love the idea of trying an expensive paint just to see how it is to work with.

I have a L-shaped banquette and it looks professionally painted. Because it was sprayed by professionals ;) I don't mind painting walls but this trimwork - not so much.

I decided to splurge on the FPE so I spent $123 this morning. On my way home from the paint store I was feeling pretty good until I realized that I got the wrong color. I almost threw up my Egg Mcmuffin.

Oh my......... how are you hanging in there KK?

Hi sheesharee, I am sure it will be fine. I have two rooms I did in BM Linen White and I got this paint in BM China White. It will be one of those things that no one else notices except me. Hopefully, I will have the guts to open it today and try it.

Here is a window pic. The light isn't too good which is nice so you can't see any of my little mistakes.

FYI, The window is not crooked in the bathroom. My picture taking skills are ranked right up there with my painting skills.

Looks good. I'm glad to hear it wasn't a major oopsy in paint color!