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DIY removal of two-tier countertop?

9 years ago

I'm brand new here (after browsing and reading for a few hours now) and was hoping I could get some general help.

We're in the process of researching and planning new countertops. We've decided on the material and general color ideas - but this is where I get stuck. I *think* I want to remove the two-tier portion of a counter penninsula we already have. I wouldn't be interested in adding any more overhang than we currently have, just making it all 1 level instead of 2. Obviously we'd need to decide on this prior to measuring and ordering the countertops - hence my research now.

Is this something we could DIY? Has anyone done this themselves? If we're not adding overhang wouldn't it already be "structurally sound" for this? I've been searching here and the internet in general and can't come across anything that discusses this...

Excuse my terminology is anything is off!

ETA: We have nothing in this peninsula - no sink, cooktop, etc. and we're not adding anything at all.

This post was edited by lauram1692 on Mon, May 26, 14 at 13:45

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Comments (4)

kudzu9
9 years ago
A picture would help greatly. It's not clear at all what you want to remove and what you want to leave behind. It's not responsible to try to answer this for you without seeing the actual installation and how the peninsula is constructed.
User
9 years ago
2 considerations here. Where will you put the electrical outlets that are currently located in the backsplash area, and are you comfortable doing the needed electrical changes? You cannot eliminate them. They are code required. You may be able to relocate them onthe side of a cabinet, but there are several 'ifs'' here. Post a pic and get more specific suggestions.

Second is how do you plan to support the stone overhang? Stone is much heavier than laminate and cannot extend further out than 9'' from the back of the wall or cabinet. Corbels could work, or angled bracets, or invisible pieces of steel. The how that is a combination of your aesthetics, budget, and DIY skill.
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ksc36/Joseph Corbett, LLC: I read the instructions and if you read it carefully, the wood block method is an alternative to use only if the clips are too long for the application ; in other words, if the clips would extend past, and sit on the cabinet side walls and keep the counter top from sitting on the cabinets. I don't think this would normally be an issue when installing a 30" sink into a 36" cabinet - both typical, standard sizes. I don't read it as an alternative technique to be used at the discretion of the installer in place of the specified technique using the Blanco instructions and hardware. In my opinion (which I have developed during my ordeal), installers will almost always use wood and screws instead of anchors and hardware because it is simply faster and easier with less chance of making a mistake - plus there's no immediate downside. The customer, unless he is watching closely and knows what he is looking at, will never know what the installer did .................until possibly months or years later. On the other hand, using the anchors requires that the counter top be turned over (bottom up) which would probably require a third installer. The installers that did my counter tops consisted of 1 installer and 1 helper - they were in my house about 2 hours. They said that they had 4 counter top installations to do and they had to be done that day. I don't know how these guys are paid but I suspect that they are paid by the job and the number of jobs they sign up for or are assigned - speed is definitely a factor in their pay. Incidentally, the men that did my installation were also upset at the mistakes in the manufacturing of my counter top requiring them to make field adjustments which ultimately resulted in my counter top not being flat and the "lippage". I tried to get their names so that I could subpoena them to small claims court but M.R.Stone, LLC would not provide their contact information.
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lauram1692
Original Author
9 years ago
Thank you both! I'll get a picture taken later today (I'm at work now) and posted ASAP.

I hadn't thought about the electrical outlet (there's just one) that we'd need to figure out.

I don't know much at all about the construction aspect of the peninsula to be totally honest. I'm just starting out my reading and researching so hopefully I'm not posting entirely too prematurely. I don't think we have a 9"+ overhang of laminate right now and we'd be moving to a solid surface countertop. Then I'm guessing it needs some sort of reinforcement since we'd be "cutting" off what's up top to support the laminate...
User
9 years ago
We originally wanted to just replace the countertop and go to one level. Once we priced quartz countertops at $4000, we decided it wasn't worthwhile to put that money on our oak builder-grade cabinets in a lay-out that had some issues. So it morphed into a new kitchen. We started with a 24" deep sink cabinet and DW in the peninsula with an L-shaped pony wall. We removed the pony wall and added 12" deep cabinets behind the 24" ones (added a trash pull-out cabinet next to the sink), giving us a nice deep work surface and extra storage on the dining room side.

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