I had a room about that size that the full perimeter was fluorescents strips sitting on brackets behind angled cut strips of wooden valiances. They did both up light to the ceil and down light on the walls. The brackets were the key to make life easy and apparently made just for that purpose. Brackets used to be availble from thomas lighting many moons ago. Maybe still are from whomever may own thomas industies today. They would be fairly easy to make too.

Nutherokie- i can not thank you enough for that!!!!!!I have been stressing over this, as I really want my end pieces in the grey and the middle white.I kind of thought if it is done right it will be okay, esp. since my end pieces will stick out more thn the middle, as yours does.The ends will be 24 all the way up( one a frig, one a pantry-and then I'll have the 15' uppers inbetween.I will print this out for the cabinet maker!! THANKS!! MARTI- thank you as well for taking the time to post that pix and point that out, I will ask him which works better for my kitchen.This forum is sooo helpful! Michelle

Price out mew crown of the same size (or larger) and then decide from there. Depending ion how well attached the crown is it can range from very destructive (someone used glue) to not bad (just nailed). You can cut the paint joint with a utility knife, then pry nailed crown off. A piece of 1x4 about 2 feet long under a wonder bar will prevent breaking through the drywall. An old drywall knife can usually be driven under the molding to start an opening, then use a wonder bar against the drywall knife, then move on to the 1x lumber pad. Try and find the cope at a corner and remove that piece before (the other piece in the corner is trapped behind the coped end). If the joints are simply mitered you can start with either one. Long piece are better to start with since there is usually more spring to start on them near the middle. If you use slightly wider crown you can cover the paint line from the old crown, otherwise you may have to carefully scrape and smooth the paint line.

Hi All, I haven't posted in a while but I need your help. If I had time I'd post my link from a while ago for the paper I have etc.,,,but no time since I have bunco at my house on Thursday!! (I know,,procastination got me here) Scenario,,,1/2 bath,,wallpaper: cream bkgrnd,,country french print in red(ish) that has swirls and flower boquets all in this red. I just love it up, looks great,,about to finish today!! I'm going with a red (matched) ceiling in beadboard due to having to cover that ugly box light that came out of ceiling to have the electrical into the wall above sink...I can always flip this on the reverse side and paint the matched cream before I install if I hate the red. 2 Questions: 1) Should the crown molding match the paint color on the ceiling or the cream that is painted on the cabinets, door/frame and base boards? 2) Technical question: I discovered in my prep work that there is a 2-3" space between window and corner that the dry wall will have to be replaced due to moisture etc. (We just ordered new windows, so I'm inclined to let that ride until they come out and we get into the sill etc.) The Question part is,,,,,A) Should I wallpaper up to it, leaving couple inches on each side and CUT the piece from ceiling to counter before I paste it (so it's an exact match when I later put it up OR....B) Should I not cut it and just paste part of the paper that will be hung on the wall (adjacent wall that meets in the corner) and just fold it back, unpasted, until the wall problem is fixed then it will be pasted and stuck on the wall since the other rt side of paper is already on the wall and attached,,,can you picture this (if I had time I'd put up a photo)...??? (On the second option I thought maybe it would hide that little area temporarily),,,the wall problem on the drywall is just that top layer. Help ASAP if you can...Thanks so much,,,Nicole