Counter Height Window Installation

15 years ago

I am having a counter height double casement window installed in my new kitchen, and I am looking for details about how to determine the placement. I thought I had run across a previous post that explained how to do it, but I can't seem to find it again.

Right now, we are down to the floor boards, and the hardwood will be installed in a couple weeks. The window needs to go in now. My carpenter has never done this before, and I'm getting nervous that it will be difficult to get the window placed so that the granite can go into the sill area. Am I setting myself up for disaster? Does anyone have a detailed explanation of how to accomplish this?

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

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Comments (7)

Buehl
15 years ago
Is this the thread you were looking for?

If so, the reason you couldn't find it in a search is that it dropped off the Forum list almost a year ago. Luckily, I have it bookmarked!

Here is a link that might be useful: Counter window h(e)ight -- please help!
kercove
Original Author
15 years ago
That's exactly the one I was looking for. Thanks Buehl!

One question about the granite height though. My KD and contractor keep saying it's 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" thick. From reading everything here, I've been telling them it's 3cm, which is just about 1-3/16". I know we're talking about a tiny bit of space, but is there something that goes under 3cm granite that would bring it up to 1-1/2" total (especially since standard counter height is 36")?

I think I may be making this more confusing than it needs to be. I just don't want to mess up!
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I don't know what you intend to do regarding backsplash height (that's the distance b/w the finished counter and the bottom of the upper cabinet and light rail), but here's what I usually tell people when they're considering the height for their backsplash. The standard is 18"...regardless of the reasons why, it's still the standard.. How this affects your kitchen.... Refrigerator and other tall cabinet heights...Because wall cabinets are meant to be mounted at a standard height, cabinet manufacturers take this into account when designing tall cabinets. Tall cabinets are designed to be the same height as the installed wall cabinets so the tops all line up. When you change the height a wall cabinet is installed at, it affects cabinet top alignments. With the refrigerator you can usually mount the upper cabinet a little lower OR order a shorter upper cabinet, but be sure you don't make the alcove any shorter than 72" tall b/c newer refrigerators are 70" to 72" tall (and seem to get taller each year!) With other tall cabinets like oven cabinets and pantry cabinets, they're a standard height and designed so they're the same height as the wall cabinets when those wall cabinets are installed 18" above a 36" high counter. If you have custom cabinets, this may not be an issue b/c your cabinetmaker can adjust the cabinet heights. But, if you are using stock or even some semi-custom cabinets, you cannot change the height. You can often get taller cabinets for use w/36" or 42" tall wall cabinets, but not shorter for 30" mounted lower. But, even those that are taller are also adjusted based on standard wall cabinet heights + an 18" backsplash height. Small appliance height...Small appliance manufacturers often design their products to meet this 18" standard...for example, my KA stand mixer (bowl lift) is around 17" and many coffeemakers and blenders are just short of 18". So, you need to be sure you have room under the cabinets + light rail to fit those appliances. Small appliances... Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets). Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of workspace in front of the upper cabinets...not much room to work in by itself! (If you have deeper upper cabinets...say 15", there's even less counter frontage in front of your upper cabinets...3" less, so 9".) Vertical workspace... Another consideration is vertical work...
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slc2053
15 years ago
I've seen some granite installed directly on top of the cabinets and other granit installed on top of plywood which was placed on top of the cabinets before the granite install. I'm not sure how this is deteremined and by who, but your KD ought to be able to answer this question as to whether or not you'll have this extra layer. If not, then you're looking at 1 3/16..if so then you need to add the thickenss of any underlayment between the cabinet tops and the granite.

We measured, measured, and measured and were still off by about 1/4" just due to the amount of shimming of cabinets we had to do..we still made it work...good luck!
Buehl
15 years ago
3cm granite is installed directly on top of the cabinets; 2cm granite is installed over a plywood top. BTW...slab thickness is approx, it can vary from slab to slab. However, I think there are only two "categories" of thickness for slabs intended for kitchen counters: 2cm & 3cm. Which thickness is available to you is primarily dependent on the area of the USA you live in (I don't know about the rest of the world). E.g., CA generally has 2cm; the East Coast generally has 3cm.

As to finished counter height....

Our finished counter heights range from 35-7/8" to 36-1/4" throughout the kitchen. The difference has to do w/the granite thickness. We have 3 or 4 different slab thicknesses...all affecting the final height (yes, it means we have a noticeably uneven counter in at least one seam...it was ground down a little to try to make it even, but they never quite got it right...one of many issues I have/had with our fabricator/installer.) The window sill on our counter height window was installed after the counters were in so any differences at the window were hidden by the sill.

Our window was actually installed almost 36-1/2" off the finished floor. At first I was upset since I had specifically told them 36", but it turns out it was a good thing b/c of our granite. As I mentioned before, the sill brought it all together so it all looks one height.
erikanh
15 years ago
kercove, we ran into this same confusion with our countertop. I had told my cabinet company that my marble would be 3 cm but somehow that got translated to 1 1/2 inches. My countertop company said they never use an underlayment on top of cabinets. Consequently, the wood top on my hutch ended up being a little too thick. Make sure to nail this measurement down with your KD and contractor. That tiny bit of space can make a big difference especially where you're planning a window down to the counter.

Not to confuse matters even more but have you considered bumping out your windows to give you more space behind your sink? I was concerned about splashing from my faucet and then I saw mamadadapaige's bumped out window. My contractor was easily able to build a 6-inch bump out for my windows.

Good luck!

Erika
kercove
Original Author
15 years ago
Buehl- I'm so glad that you mentioned that the slab itself could vary in thickness. I hadn't even thought about that, and it's even more reason to install just a tiny bit too high. And I can barely see your sill, so I don't think that would bother me at all (although mine will be right next to the sink, not bumped out at all.

Speaking of bumping the window out, Erika, I am in love with your windows...and everything else in your kitchen! I would really love to be able to do the bump out, but I'm not sure it would work with our house.

First, we may end up with a deck in that general vicinity. I know we should have really gone with a slider or double hung windows for this scenario, but we found a good deal on a casement and I like the look, so we went with this one. Bumping it out would make it even more difficult to utilize that space without walking into an open window.

Second, we have a pretty generic 1950s cape/ranch (we have center stairs to the attic but it's not finished), and I think it might be overkill for the style of the home. Plus, I'm not sure how we'd create or extend the roof to cover the window. Oh well, maybe next time :)

Thanks for all of your help!
cotehele
15 years ago
buehl, thanks for resurrecting that old thread just in time ! Demolition begins tomorrow. My contractor said Friday that he had never heard of doing this so obviously didn't know how it was done.

Judy ;D

Counter Height Window Installation

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Counter Height Window Installation

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