Tricia, I think you can try HD or Lowe's, although I haven't seen any there lately. But different stores have different plants. I would try those stores, and if you have no luck there, try a local garden center. Otherwise, wait until Spring, when they start selling a lot more plants. But you should have NO trouble finding an adult one. Ophelia, I'm not sure how to answer your question. Does your plant look like Tricia's? If they are separate stalks then yes, they are separate "plants" in a way. They are most likely not attached. But if it's one pot, it's one plant :) You don't have to separate them. I have a tree-like plant, it's pretty huge (about 2 and 1/2 feet tall from the soil line to the top of the plant, in an 18" diameter pot), and I have a bunch of different "stalks" in the pot. It depends on your taste. Some people like just one thick tree-like stalk. I like a full pot. You don't ever NEED to separate them, but you'll need to repot into bigger pots as they grow. As to why your plant is not thick-leaved and sturdy, I have no clue. You'd have to post a pic and/or give a full description of what it looks like, how often you're watering, what kind of soil it's in (hopefully fast-draining), how much light it's getting, does the pot have a drainage hole (hopefully it does!), etc. If it came overwatered, let it dry out and don't water until it's COMPLETELY dry, and even then don't water! Depending on where you live, you should probably be watering it at most once a month. Keep it coldish and in bright sun. If it really appears weak and overwatered, I wouldn't water it until Spring. Also, if it's young, then it obviously won't be as woody as an older one. But if you can, post a pic...that would be very helpful. Gabi

Hey again...sorry I took so long to get back to ye here... Re: "pink or blue foam insulation" for the attic - you mean the sheet kind, right? Right, that stuff. I found Dow blue foam that's 4" thick and R-20, so if I get you right you say to lay that over the high-density (R-30) fiberglass batts placed in the joist bays instead of another layer of fiberglass? What is the benefit over using the two layers of batts? Two things: 1. Air infiltration gets cut way down. Thinking about this more, though, it might actually create problems, given that the foamboard is basically waterproof. You'd basically be creating a vapor barrier over that part of the attic. Mainly you have to make sure that with all this filling and sealing, you're still getting enough air exchange into your house. Worst case is that you'd have to install an energy-recovery ventilator (ERV) to make sure any natural gas applicances don't backdraft and suffocate you w/ carbon monoxide. The infiltration issue also is a concern w/ moisture loads in the winter. Again, proper ventilation and humidity regulation would address that. (If NH is anything like Nebraska, you're crunchy dry all winter anyway, so some extra humidity inside is actually a good thing.) (Wow, that was long!) 2) From what I've read and been told, the insulative ability of fiberglass insulation drops with the air temperature. Cellulose and foam don't apparently have that problem. Plus, foam has a better R-value per inch (witness the R-5 per inch of the 4" foam - even high-density fiberglass has at most, what, R-3.5?) In fact, if it were ME, and I had addressed the moisture issues, I'd go solely with foam. If you were really nuts, you could even buy a DIY spray-foam kit and foam the joist bays in. Tigerfoam and Fomo Foam are a couple products that I've heard good thing about. Googling for those should get some info. Something else to think about - it might pay to look into some alternate source of heating fuel, be it natural gas, electric, what have you. What's a typical winter heating bill in that area if you're using oil? Jason

~sigh~ This is probably going to be the instance that gets my head shaved by Michael. karoloke: I have purchased many cans of CC. Only one (the last can I bought) had those tiny little speckled clumps you speak of. Yes it was an absolute aggravation. I have no idea what caused it. I stirred well (I use a battery operated kitchen mixer). Didn't get rid of them. In a pinch, I had no time to return/exchange. It worked out alright, though. I've used this paint a lot so am very familiar/comfortable working with it. I just brushed out any little specks (I was painting trim with that can, not cabinets). It was a real PITA. Because it was trim set on sawhorses it was easy to swipe off the little flecks. Cabinets would be harder. And I ditched that can (half used) when that job was done. If this is your first can/first try, I'd suggest taking your sample board back to the store and showing them. Those specks should not be there. I want to suspect it has something to do with temperatures and storage (warehouse/transit/etc.) but I'm just a DIY'er so don't know for sure. The pros here can probably offer better advice on that. Satin is the only sheen. It's wonderful! Wipes off readily and easily and will take bumps/dings better than regular latex. My mother recuperated here with us after heart surgery, she used a walker and wasn't so good at steering it. Several times she bumped the trim or door and CC didn't chip where a standard latex would have. Little black scuffs from her walker tires wiped right off. I have done projects with and without primer. Rental properties and my own home. (Figures, the one I'm now having issue with is my kitchen cabs, but that's my fault.) If you're going over a similar color you don't need to prime. I tend to prime just because that's what I like to do for extra good measure. I've just done a rental bath, didn't prime, painted over glossy oil-based white on medicine cabinet and trim, CC covered it fine in two coats. First time I used CC was about 5+ years ago on kitchen cabs in different rental. Those were oil-based paint as well (a medium level gloss, cream in color). Dove right in, didn't prime, CC is still holding well. My own kitchen cabs I'm going to have to touch up. They were 70's stained dark oak. I was burned out, didn't prep them well, primed with Zinsser Bullseye (water based, love that primer). I have pin head size dings going straight down to dark finish. So Bullseye is not clinging (atypical, that stuff will cling to most anything). I knew better and now I'm paying for my lapse in judgment and shortcuts :( The other times I've used a primer with CC is when going over dark colors or stained surfaces. It saves on extra coats of CC used. I tested CC on a dark mahogany stained plant stand. It did cover, but it took 4 coats, whereas with a primer generally two coats of CC is ample. And primer is much less costly than CC ;) When I did my cabinets (style similar to yours) I painted large center surface first with a foam roller. Any bubbles quickly brushed out with a good brush. Then did the edges with a tapered brush. Start in working out and you won't get paint all over your arms reaching across what you've already painted to get to the unpainted middle ;)

Has she already tried dismembering the cat? I regretfully have polished marble on my bathroom floor. So far, whether the damage is done by a contractor or a hair product, I've had success mixing hydrogen pyroxide with baking soda into a paste, putting it on the stain, covering with plastic wrap and leaving it overnight. No guarantees this will work on her marble or not damage it, so you may want to go back to my suggestion about the cat.