~sigh~ This is probably going to be the instance that gets my head shaved by Michael.

karoloke: I have purchased many cans of CC. Only one (the last can I bought) had those tiny little speckled clumps you speak of. Yes it was an absolute aggravation. I have no idea what caused it. I stirred well (I use a battery operated kitchen mixer). Didn't get rid of them. In a pinch, I had no time to return/exchange. It worked out alright, though. I've used this paint a lot so am very familiar/comfortable working with it. I just brushed out any little specks (I was painting trim with that can, not cabinets). It was a real PITA. Because it was trim set on sawhorses it was easy to swipe off the little flecks. Cabinets would be harder. And I ditched that can (half used) when that job was done.

If this is your first can/first try, I'd suggest taking your sample board back to the store and showing them. Those specks should not be there. I want to suspect it has something to do with temperatures and storage (warehouse/transit/etc.) but I'm just a DIY'er so don't know for sure. The pros here can probably offer better advice on that.

Satin is the only sheen. It's wonderful! Wipes off readily and easily and will take bumps/dings better than regular latex. My mother recuperated here with us after heart surgery, she used a walker and wasn't so good at steering it. Several times she bumped the trim or door and CC didn't chip where a standard latex would have. Little black scuffs from her walker tires wiped right off.

I have done projects with and without primer. Rental properties and my own home. (Figures, the one I'm now having issue with is my kitchen cabs, but that's my fault.) If you're going over a similar color you don't need to prime. I tend to prime just because that's what I like to do for extra good measure. I've just done a rental bath, didn't prime, painted over glossy oil-based white on medicine cabinet and trim, CC covered it fine in two coats. First time I used CC was about 5+ years ago on kitchen cabs in different rental. Those were oil-based paint as well (a medium level gloss, cream in color). Dove right in, didn't prime, CC is still holding well. My own kitchen cabs I'm going to have to touch up. They were 70's stained dark oak. I was burned out, didn't prep them well, primed with Zinsser Bullseye (water based, love that primer). I have pin head size dings going straight down to dark finish. So Bullseye is not clinging (atypical, that stuff will cling to most anything). I knew better and now I'm paying for my lapse in judgment and shortcuts :( The other times I've used a primer with CC is when going over dark colors or stained surfaces. It saves on extra coats of CC used. I tested CC on a dark mahogany stained plant stand. It did cover, but it took 4 coats, whereas with a primer generally two coats of CC is ample. And primer is much less costly than CC ;)

When I did my cabinets (style similar to yours) I painted large center surface first with a foam roller. Any bubbles quickly brushed out with a good brush. Then did the edges with a tapered brush. Start in working out and you won't get paint all over your arms reaching across what you've already painted to get to the unpainted middle ;)

Thanks, moonshadow, for your help and suggestions. Sounds like you're almost a pro at this. We called the paint store today and they were very nice and said they'd take it back. I may try another can of theirs, but he doesn't know if was from the same shipment and might have flakes, too.

When you did the flat surfaces of your cupboards, did you have to let that dry before doing the edges? It sounds like there is such a short working time, I'm thinking it might mess up the flat part when I do the picture frame molding.

Karoloke,

It doesn't matter what you're painting, the surface must be dulled prior to painting with CC.

If you're painting cabinets, and you want to prime, dull the surface first. Prep is what makes the difference in any paint project.

What do you mean by flat surfaces? Do you mean the rails and stiles? Edges are always painted first. Any excess paint that creeps on to the flat surface should be wiped away with a damp cloth.

Michael

Nope, not a pro, just addicted to the stuff. CC is so different from anything else I've used.

And yes, I forgot that key part, dulling the surface! Listen to Michael, he's the guru! That's why I am getting those pin head dings on my own cabinets. I scrubbed half heartedly and scuff sanded with even less enthusiasm (so tired, I had just painted our entire interior by myself because DH hates to paint- should have taken a couple weeks off before doing my cabinets). I knew better but just wanted to be done with it all. It is so critical to not skimp on prep, as Michael says. It does come back to bite.

I did my entire cabinet doors at once, not in sections. I think if I understand Michael he's saying do all edges, let them dry, then go back and do centers. That way any paint that gets on previously painted (now dry) areas can just be wiped off. But maybe he'll confirm that? ;D

Nice the store took the can back. Will they open a new can for you, test it? Those little lumps should show up right away if it's part of the bad batch. I'd have a piece of poster board handy (8 1/2 x 11 minimum) and ask them to test on that, if those little flecks are in the paint, it will show up on that. They've nothing to lose by testing it first to see if it's got those speckles in it.

When doing edges, you don't need to wait for the edge to dry, just be sure to wipe away any paint that gets on the face of the door, drawer, frame, etc.. Why? Because by the time you finish the edges and move to the front or back, the small amount of paint on the face of the door or drawer will be partially dry, causing an uneven appearance when the brush glides over it.

Michael