Pricing's all over the board, so I can't tell you what they should cost if someone else makes them. Some will charge more or less than me. In a previous post, I guesstimated (and it is a guess without knowing all the specifics), I said I would charge aprox. $3,000 for labor and linings. Add to that probably around another $1,000 for fabric, so maybe around $4,000 (plus tax where I live). So, the $1,475 really is cheap for this and the reason they look the way they look. You've gotten a lot of tips thru all these posts telling you how they show have been made. I don't think there's any mills left in the US that make fabric, however, you would have been better to use someone here to make them. But as in my guesstimate, you would have paid a lot more.

As far as I'm concerned the best soy wax on the market is Enchanted Lites.(IMHO) However, there are other soys that are workable and have good results. I like to tell people that the best soy, is the one closest to them...LOL Shipping is a pain in the arse, might as well catch a break... on the bottom of the list in the link below is a great company to deal with. Beth and Doug are good people. I've heard good reviews on Save On Scents too. Enchanted Lites Bitter Creek They carry another of my favorite suppliers oils. Wick Your Wax from BC Canada. They are in Wisconsin. Candle Cocoon One of my favorite suppliers. They are in Wisconsin. Snowtop Great customer service and helpful folks. They are in Ohio though. That should get you started. Here is a link that might be useful: Michigan Craft Suppliers

This is not a very active forum. You can't demand an answer so quickly. It might be months before someone comes along with an answer.

Hi Kathrine. It seems like you are well on your way to a solution already, but I would like to clear some of the fog. First, I would like to address oil and wax finishes. Although they do produce a decent finish, they take forever to cure, they will need to be renewed eventually, and they offer little to no protection (when compared to a film finish). In a kitchen, durability is usually the big concern and pure tung oil simply doesnt have a place there. Now if you have a nice antique hall table that you dont mind babying, tung oil and wax could be a good choice. But with the amazing array of beautiful finish options available today, its hard to believe tung oil (and boiled linseed oil), still find their way into our homes. That being said, I am glad you went with the Waterlox. Despite the incorrect information Minwax gave you, Waterlox is not all that different from a wiping polyurethane. Waterlox actually contains little to no tung oil at all. It does, however, contain a resin that is derived from oil and is a close relative to polyurethane. Many woodworkers like this particular resin better because it is less "plastic-looking" than standard polyurethane. So what you have actually done is exactly what I would have recommended: you top-coated your tung oiled surface with a wiping varnish. This varnish will give your cabinets the protection they need from oil, grease, heat, water, and cleaning agents. A level of protection that tung oil cannot provide. And one note to the folks who were discussing "food-safe" finishes. Nearly all film finishes are food safe once cured. If you are a bit skeptical, there are FDA-approved varnishes available (usually labelled salad bowl finish), that will offer much more protection and durability than oil and wax. I apologize for the blitz of information. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask away. Marc