Wow! You certainly sound ambitious!! As has been mentioned, you will need to do the little stuff so the big things can take place. Physical labor takes much time! Your growing seasons can be quite demanding, and things MUST be done in time, on time, so the later results can happen. Like garden preparation, seeding or putting out plants. If you wait, the window is closing, results are not as good. There are times you just cannot do what needs doing on time. ESPECIALLY if you are alone, no family members to help. My suggestion would be to check out the Master Gardener Program, see if there is a local branch that puts on classes. Taking their program really opened my eyes to doing things systematically, how so many things affect each other, regarding your final results. Locally, the MG works thru the State Extension Service, should be listed under State then Master Gardeners if you check. Your Land Grant University manages the Ag programs and farming related things. Hawaii is small, not sure who would be the University. You can learn as you wait to get your land. I would second getting PRODUCTIVE land, rather than just cheap land. Even in small acreages, you can have flat and rolling, mixed areas. Heck we have wooded areas on our 14 acres! All the animals you name, will be grazing, they are BETTER animals with some exertion going up and down hilly ground. How MUCH EXPERIENCE do you have with these animals and their care? Even with sheds, not barn with stalls, you will need to check them for injury, do regular upkeep work like hoof trimming, grooming, so you can make sure they don't have problems. For me, that means DAILY handling. You don't see cuts or soreness, if you don't lead the animal in to groom him and find problems. You need to really LOOK at them, not just a passing glance every day or so. The sheer varieties you name is overwhelming. I would have a difficult time keeping up with just animals, and no other work you have named! You will need secure fencing to contain those animals. Some like the deer, may have special laws on upkeep, you don't know about. Here, they have needed TB testing yearly, with clean results so you can sell the extras. Birds named may have issues with staying home and predators. Some just are not bright, hurt themselves, like Peacocks who fly into things. Swans can be NASTY, need to often be kept apart from smaller fowl so they don't kill them. Swan defending his area, can break your leg with a wing hit! Hawks are not picking on you, but do go for easy food sources like chickens. Shooting them will get you in BIG trouble. Buying and then losing birds is a huge money drain. The wooley animals named will need shearing yearly, and a market to get rid of the wool. You could shear yourself, but it is hard with many animals. Cost money to hire shearing done for you. Are you going to buy special sheep that take the heat well? Not sure how well the Llama and Alpaca will do in such heat, even sheared. Market for selling babies, show animals is down, not as much demand now. Each species has it's own demands for housing, feeding, vet care. That is a LOT of information just for one species! We got cattle last winter, the learning curve is SHARP, costs add up fast. Horses can be complicated, as can sheep. Feed is NOT interchangable! Goats are EXTREMELY creative, hard to keep penned if you have poor fences. The trees sound quite interesting in their variety, will they survive in MS weather? Have to say Bamboo can be EXTREMELY invasive, take over your whole farm. Check the varieties you plan to purchase, make provisions for keeping it contained. I have seen some places where the bamboo has escaped, it just crowds everything else out FAST. Some kinds get tall as trees, kind of creepy walking thru such a woods. Just looks "wrong". A tree plantation needs good fencing as well, our deer eat everything in cold seasons! Some of the trees named are slow growing, are they just for interest? You may not live long enough to see a return on wood sales. You should develop a business plan type idea for your farm. Start with the long term things first, like tree planting. Yes they need fencing, maybe watering in dry times. Need to keep the ground mowed so trees are not crowded out. When they get bigger you could graze animals under them. Land needs a good well, maybe two, so you have water. Pond is nice, but not essential to start. You can always have one dug out. Pond could be a mosquito problem too, stagnant water if it is only filled from rainfall. My thinking here, is that with you in service or Reserves, you may not have TIME to do more than watch the trees grow when you are home. Animals take LOTS of time. Reserves might get called up, then who cares for the livestock? Even dogs and cats have had problems finding homes if Military owners have to leave NEXT WEEK. Re-enlisting is not good for livestock. You could take huge losses if you needed to dump your animls. No mention of family who would stay home to care for the place on a daily basis, so probably better not to invest in livestock. Having a dream place is wonderful, but jumping in whole hog, everything at once is poor planning. What will you do for regular income? Have to have cash money for some things, like taxes and gasoline. You will NEED farm equipment to run acreage, with or without animals. I admire folks who are so self-sufficient, but it is exhausting. They work all day long, and it never gets any easier. Seems like they just get worn out before their time. We have horses, the heifer, get lambs in summer for 4-H and the freezer. Heifer is for sale, we got another horse so I need the grazing again. We are not fancy, but not patchwork either. Horses need daily handling, stalls cleaned, feeding with hay in winter. It adds up. Pastures need mowing to keep weeds down, improve grazing. I learned that in my Master Gardener class! My pastures are 1000% improved over "let the animals eat all the grass down" thinking. The horses graze now all summer, rotate the paddocks, no extra hay feeding even in dry August. Before, pasture was gone by July with no mowing. Cutting makes grasses grow MORE, grass is soft and edible, not dry and seedy. I now fertilize and disk the pasture, which improves grass growth too. Lambs have purchase price invested, grown on pasture grass, so meat is quite inexpensive. Daughter sells her 4-H animals, gets a good profit margin there for her school fund. Also did well with her Prospect Beef calf, though expenses were higher from us not knowing things to manage him better. Learning costs, but we didn't lose him like other beginner 4-H folks did with their calves! Lost money there, with dead calves. She still turned a profit, but not as good as the lamb investment/return project. Horses are just an expense, we enjoy them. Never make any money on them, just have great family times. Heifer was another idea, going to raise a calf to eat or sell, keep the fields grazed. Not much to feed her. That project is going when she sells. I don't have room for a bull and SURE don't want to keep one. AI sounds easy, but is not actually true. A friend has a bull and is keeping her for us while she is bred. Husband found a filly while heifer was gone, purchased her. Now heifer needs selling or we will be overcrowded. Have to see how that goes. Heifer is a Dexter, small breed about 700#, stands about 36-44" tall. Ours is the taller model, 42". They are a bit easier on the land, less hoof weight tearing things up, less feed needed and smaller finished weight for steers. So steers are ready in about 12 months, not longer time of larger breeds. Dexters do need dehorning, though polled is available if you hunt for them. I won't have horned cattle because of the danger of getting impaled. She has been a nice heifer, and I would recommend the breed. Like any other cattle, you have to train them. If they are handled daily is best for keeping them tamed down. She leads, loads, ties, gets groomed, comes when called for nightly stalling. But handling takes time, which seems to be short if you have lots of work on a farm. Your business plan will need money amounts for each project as you go along. Machinery investments. Old and used can work if you are mechanical, but maybe newer if you are not a fixer person. Learning mechanical skills could be something you do before getting the farm. College classes on that are easy to find. We paid to have our fence installed. We have high tensile wire, which many folks hate. Our installer put it in according to the manufacturer specs, 8 strands for horses, insulated on 4 strands for electric fencer, springs for tension, driven posts with double braced posts at each corner, all gates 14ft wide. Fence has been EXCELLENT for many years. Paying for install, was cheaper than just buying posts and material for woven wire and our own labor!! I LOVE my fence, animals stay home, no one breaks in. I would certainly pay for high-tensile again. Upkeep is weed whacking to keep it clean for fencer, putting a staple back up now and again. Sure you can do things cheap, but you end up redoing later. Lots of 2-3-4 strand tensile around here and you hear about the damaged animals, how dangerous high tensile wire is!! Well they cheaped out and didn't do things to spec, so fence is NOT to blame, builder is. Animals WILL reach thru wide spaced wires, WILL walk thru non-electric fencing, and then the damage starts. Cheap construction usually cost you later. You will need some sort of lockable building to keep tools, machines in. Check out costs for packages, garage or sheds are not too hard to assemble. But you need the costs to put down on your plan, to be prepared for when you reach that step. Planning your steps will give you a better view of the big picture near the finish with house and living on the land. Working with just land, no animals, you would be able to walk away if called up. No rush decisions because you will be gone in a week. And you can start saving money, planning for loans if needed to continue each step. Time spend learning, is a great investment. We can relate our experiences, but unfortunately, some things you have to learn by doing. I don't know any apprentice programs for farmer start ups! Do you know any crafts that would provide cash? Some places crafts can sell well, others, not so much. Apprenticing with a master craftsman, could gain those skills for you. Sorry this got so long, just hate to see folks beating their heads against the wall. Like me, with calf. "How hard can feeding a bottle baby be? EVERYONE does it, no problem daughter! I have fed bottle babies before (after being handed the bottle and returning it). We can do that". I was REALLY wrong there, should have been better prepared. Cost money to the Vet, worry, calf suffered for it. He came out OK, but it was needless because I could have gained knowledge ahead, not after buying.

I will look again but I don't see any indication of a torn out tag anywhere in the interior. I'm sure it's a knockoff but it's well built and the leather is good quality. I saddle soaped it last night and it buffed up nicely. A night with a dryer sheet inside took away the ashtray smell. I LOVE good leather purses. The DB Equestrian purses are wonderful! I think I'll start saving for one now. Leather NEVER wears out. And if something gets torn, etc any saddle maker can sew it up. Lori

Thanks all! Barb...I got a chuckle out of it and out of the fact that you're not the first one to say you wouldn't go w/EXPO b/c of my problems. They just don't seem to get it that in this day & age of the internet, any time they give someone a hard time the story will spread far & wide! I hope you get your oven tomorrow Pupwhipped! I didn't realize we started the same day! Mustbnuts...I'd say maybe 75-80% done....this is what the other side of the kitchen looks like... what granite you do see is not secured...it's just sitting there until a replacement cabinet comes in...another 3 or 4 weeks! We also have no toe kick on any cabinets + furniture molding + in-cabinet lights, about 1/3 of the outlets/lights aren't finished, etc. So, there's still quite a bit to do...but at least it's semi-functional!!!! I'm OK with it taking a while to finish...I'm just glad to get a DW back!

Thank you all for your replies. I was out at the farm where our weekend house is and took some pics that would be helpful. While we will be gutting this bathroom to the studs of this 1897 house (which are all hand hewed cedar) built by German immigrants, I took some photos of how it looks right now *circa 1981* by the previous owner (my family bought it in 1983). The original family added it later, a from a portion of the back porch. As you can see, the sink is right by the door and will stay in the same location. The toilet will also stay in its current location (just a new one) and instead of an alcove shower, we will remove a wall and put in a corner shower. From the doorway to the opposite wall, is 88 inches and the cross dimension is 80 inches. This sink cabinet is 28 wide. I could go to 30" and be ok. There is a towl rack on the end of the cabinet that makes the whole thing stick out to 31 inches. Being that it is the only bathroom in the house (3 15x15 bedrooms and 1 15x17 master) the only other sink is the kitchen. I like the shallowness of the space saver cabinet not being as deep for your feet when you walk in and I like having the large bowl for washing up after a long day working outside. I also would like the cabinet to be taller (36"). We have that height in our residence and like them. I feel like I am bending over so far when brushing my teeth. One thing I was trying to stay away from was having a separate counter top and sink. But that creates the issue of it not being flush against the wall, like it is now (although potentially less deep). @enduring, Thank you for the Kohler link. I do like that sink and exploring further with the item numbers, I really like the 30' cabinet and sink. My cabinet maker made me some cabs for another project and I think he can do a similar one for less than Kohler is asking. I can also get it comfort height that way. I am good with finishing cabinets/furniture. While the big box sink got me on this track, after reading the reviews more, I think I will steer away from the cheaper sink and go with more of a known quality brand. three hole (4" center) or single hole doesn't matter really to me. The faucet will be levers of some sort. @Sloyer I do like that sink a lot. I like all of the "counter space" it offers. I am drawn more to these that are the integrated sink/counter top for ease of clean. We put in full work days of clearning brush and fence lines, mowing, burn piles, cows, etc and we are dirty. A nice big sink is my hearts desire. @Pippabean WOW! thanks for the name of what I am looking for. That link has some great sinks and you attached some neat sinks. I will explore that link further and see if something fits my needs/wants. Thanks @ the cooks kitchen. We shouldn't run into any clearance issues. Even though we are going to the studs, everything is going back in the same locations as they are now. Just new. With a less deep vanity, I'm hoping for a little more foot room in front of the sink and it won't look so crowded going up to the door trim. That medicine cabinet is going, along with the towl ring, soap dish and wood towel racks and light fixture. New mirror, light and a medicine cabinet with an old window as a door that will go where the open shelves are. We have an old original sheep shed that is falling down and we are using the barn siding to put on the ceiling. I am considering this tile for the two walls of the shower. Need to see it in person and make a color board with all of the choices. http://www.homedepot.com/p/MS-International-Antique-White-3-in-x-6-in-Handcrafted-Glazed-Ceramic-Wall-Tile-1-sq-ft-case-PT-AW36/204688441