Ask on the Plumbing forum. The only thing I could think of would be that maybe the installation of the softener added some crap into the water lines and the filter is catching this. You might also check the screens on your faucets and washing machine inlets.

Now that you know you have a PRV we KNOW you have a closed plumbing system and the 100psi spikes are the result of thermal expansion. You can refer to the link 14 posts above for a detailed explanation of thermal expansion. The PRV creates a closed plumbing system. Since your internal pressure is 60 psi we can assume that portion of the PRV is working. We can prove that if we know the street side pressure. The N35B does have a built-in bypass feature that limits the internal pressure to 10psi above the supply pressure. I don't trust the built-in bypass because the intent of a closed plumbing system is to prevent back-flow into the main system from homes. Click here for N35B details and read the TROUBLESHOOTING section CAREFULLY. You may be experiencing the dribble now just because the new fridge has a valve that is sensitive to excess pressure. The bypass on the PRV might have just failed and is now causing you a thermal expansion problem. That is why the preferred thermal expansion control device is a thermal expansion tank. Here's what I would do... 1. Measure supply (street side of the PRV) pressure for reference and to know how much the PRV is reducing the pressure for future troubleshooting. 2. If the PRV is not reducing pressure then replace it. 3. Install a thermal expansion tank at the cold inlet for the WH and sized from the link 14 posts above including a 1/4 turn ball valve so the tank is easily serviced in the future. 4. When that is done, if the fridge leak persists then back to GE, BUT, without a receipt from a plumber you may be banging your head against a wall with them unless you get a GE tech that has field experience and is knowledgeable.

Please disregard - problem fixed. I believe the line was frozen inside the freezer door. Turning up the temp and leaving the door open for a little while got the water flowing.

The GE online store has prices about 10-15% higher than you will find at most retailers. There's your "discount" right there. No one pays "suggested retail price". Different stores discount a different amount off of that price, but no one sells at that price---except the GE store. And, the rebates they offer require that 4-5 (I can't remember which, it's on the tearoff pad at work) appliances be purchased in order to qualify for the top tier award. If you just buy 2 appliances, it's either $50 or $100. We (and every other appliance retailer) have the same rebate going, and our prices are about 15% lower than GE online. So, I think you can do better than the "friends and family" discount if you shop around. And, don't let the rebate factor into your decision. By the time you pay the upcharge for the Profile over the regular GE with similar features, you've paid more than they're giving you back by far. Yes, you do get more features with Profile, and more yet again with Monogram, as well as more "styling". But, you pay for the priviledge of the branding too. Assess the features you will actually USE in your appliances, and "up buy" only to the model that offers those. Most people don't use ANY of the complex functions of either their fridges or MWs. As far as the reliability/features of GE vs any other competitor, I'd definately buy both the fridges or MWs. They are good products in their price range, with few issues other than the "standard" issue of the ice maker being the most repair prone element. Their new french door fridges from their brand new Chinese factory have dual evaporators (Like SubZero) and truly separate fridge and freezer compartments due to this, so you get no odor transfer and more accurate cooling for both. They've had remarkably few problems for being from a brand new factory and a brand new design to the company. Before the Chinese factory, they sold rebadged LGs as their French door units, like "Kenmore" does. Their MWs are roomy and have good power specs. The most often used feature is the "sensor cook" which works in tandem with their "instant action" keys to keep your food from overheating. It works similarly to how the old temperature sensor probes worked, but without the probe. Most of the other features above the level where that is introduced in the line get rarely used and really aren't worth paying more money for. Their OTR convection MW is overpriced for what it is, and really doesn't offer that much of a second oven experience to justify the price. A small countertop version from a cheaper maker for around $100 will fit the same amount of food in it and not cost so much. Of course, it isn't an OTR, but then again, it's not an OTR. :) OTRs are a PIA and safety hazard for any but the smallest kitchen that HAS to have them. If you can go with an actual vent and separate MW, you'll be miles ahead in both $$ and functionality.