I refinished a tub using a DIY kit and it lasted for several years, until I made the dreaded mat with suction cup mistake - the finish peeled and was destroyed. I thought I would have to replace the tub, something I did not want to do because of the time and mess involved. I called a local refinished company and was quoted a price of $275, $50 of that was to remove the old finish. The refinisher did a good job. He spent a couple of hours scraping and sanding before he applied the new finish. He said to keep the tup dry for three days, but since I live in hot and humid Florida, I gave it a week. It looks quite nice and was a quick and easy fix. Well worth the cost and only a fraction of the expense to replace the tub. That can wait until I remodel the entire bathroom. One word of caution: the smell and dust from sanding lasts for about half a day. I left the bathroom window open all night. Also, of course, no more leaving a rubber mat in the tub! Here is a link that might be useful: Crystal Glaze

It depends on who is refinishing the floor. A good refinisher will do a good job. If the floor boards are perpendicular to the opening between the rooms, have a threshold installed across the opening. If the kitchen floor boards are parallel to the opening, a good refinisher will do a good job of blending the finish so that the difference is not noticeable.

ok blueless there are a couple of things this could be. with almost all polyurethanes bubbling can ocur if the can itself has been shaken, also, make sure you are brushing in long even strokes, if you spend too much time trying to smooth out your strokes as you are laying it down you will definately see bubbles, its better to have it slightly uneven because you would have to sand it any way to apply the next coat. also, wiping the surface down with 100% mineral spirits or paint thinner that contains 100% mineral spirits after sanding will 1. clean the floor without leaving a residue that will harm the next coat and 2. remove all of the sanding dust wich if left on may or may not make little divets in the final coat. as far as how to fix this? its going to need to be sanded and a new coat is going to have to be layed down- you should have a smooth floor and thats the long and short of it, polyurethanes are not going to be as smooth as gass but they should be pretty damn close

@HU-121060632 The pro needed to knock down the grain after the primer. The grain raise needs to be addressed before the 2 coats of finish are added. Another issue is probably the lack of buffing before the last coat. A well trained pro will do a quick once over just before the final coat is applied. This offers a beautiful, smooth finish after the last coat is applied. It really is the sign of a professional at work. The other issue is Mega One. It is an 'OK' finish. It is easy to work with but nothing 'special' other than the VOC content. A freshly finished floor - even with the quick curing Bona products - takes almost a month to mature. Mega One is NOT known for it's toughness. It is know for easy use and easy budget implications. If you wanted tough(er) then the Bona Traffic would have been the minimum. And even now, Bona has the Traffic HD line = UBER super-duper tough. But the price tag is UBER expensive (like 3 times more expensive than Mega One). Feel free to reach out to your pro to see if a quick buff and coat with a third coat of finish will do the trick. You will have to pay for the cost of the material for the third coat = Bona Mega One costs. The cost of the buffing/light sanding SHOULD HAVE BEEN included in the original quote. That cost (ie. labour) can be negotiated.