I don't think the concept is odd at all - I've never understood the desire to put the drawer pulls lower down on the drawer. That seems to be a GW speciality (strange AND unergonomic - a true GW trait ;-) ). It is the second picture - also an IkEA display? - that looks espcially peculiar to me. In the first one, what seems odd to me is that pulls are biased low on the upper rail instead of centered on the upper rail. But then again, it is a display unit.

The new drawers will glide nicely if you bought good hardware--you are buying new drawers, not antique, right? We have two handles on all nine of our wide drawers. We often open them with one hand. Being able to open the drawer without standing directly in front of the drawer is wonderful--I can snag one of the open handle pulls with one finger and open a drawer while standing adjacent to it. I can reach in from the side, pull out a fork, and shut it again without moving from where I'm standing. We chose hardware that stands over an inch proud of the cabinet (using universal access concept). The double handles look sensible from an observer's point of view. Cabinet maker said hardware could take this kind of sideways stress, even with heavy contents in the drawer. We paid him for his strongest drawers and strongest glides. We tried taping our handles to the cabs and thinking about the pattern before we made our final decision. Worked for us. Knobs are more problematic--they require a full-hand grasp, not an index finger to open and you need to be more straight-on when operating drawers. Not sure how bin pulls work in this context.

Alysonosullivan...this is a something you build from scratch. Anyone with intermediate DIY skills or a handyman could build it. If you study the pictures above, I think you will be able to figure it out. I also found information in a web archive from JGSearls - hopefully it will help as well. . From IKEAFans: JGSearls Moderator Location: Hamden, Connecticut, USA Local IKEA: USA-New Haven Door Style: Adel Medium Brown http://web.archive.org/web/20070630030541/http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/modifications/2085-pull-out-broom-closet.html ============================================================== OK...so Tony didn't love making this broom closet. He said it would have been much easier in a shop but he did a great job. Here's the opening for the space. It's approximately 9-1/2" of dead space. Well...we cannot have dead space in my kitchen. Plus, it was bugging me that I wasn't going to have a broom and dustpan somewhere close to where most of the messes would be made. Using plywood, Tony constructed a box that fits in the space. A box with no floor. It basically went along the side of the fridge, along the top at approximately the same height as the fridge and then along the wall. . Then he constructed the box for the pull-out. That box was a rectangular cube with one side open like this. The yellow shaded area represents the open part. This box was also made out of plywood. . . He cut a tall cover panel (88", in our case) to make the front of the closet. He also cut down cover panels (and toe kicks) to go along the top of the box and along the bottom. He also reinforced the box by placing more plywood cross-wise along the short section of the box at the top and bottom. He attached the peg board to the plywood box. He ended up having to use heavy duty drawer slides along the bottom and top of the box because it's pretty heavy. . . . The closed closet. He was originally planning on having the closet lie flush with the wall but the wall was very wavy. He ended up cutting some more off the cover panel to make a small return for the box. It covers the wavy wall and finishes off the box.

Are you doing three drawers with drawer fronts on the bottom and then a door above with two inner drawers? That's what we are doing. Our first hinge uses hole #27 from the bottom and it looks like we can put the first drawer slide at #29; 2nd drawer can be around #36, depending on how much space we want in-between. I'd show a pic but we don't have drawers installed yet - it is just stickies marking the holes. We got to these positions by holding up the door to mark where the hinges would be and looking at the different configurations in the IKEA directions to get a starting point for the two inner drawers.